Real slow, long crank, and codes 12 and 13
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Real slow, long crank, and codes 12 and 13
For the past week my trucks been turning over really slow, and taking awhile to start. It seems that when you pump the gas it starts turning over faster, or more normal. 22re, I shouldn't have to pump the gas to get it to start.
My CEL comes on sometimes while it's turning over. I pulled the codes and got a 12 and 13. Both have something to do with the knock sensor. What exactly does the knock sensor do, and would it cause the slow crank? It seems to start off slow and after turning over maybe 3 or 4 times it speeds up to normal.
Before this started happening my truck would always start by the 2nd or 3rd turn over.
My CEL comes on sometimes while it's turning over. I pulled the codes and got a 12 and 13. Both have something to do with the knock sensor. What exactly does the knock sensor do, and would it cause the slow crank? It seems to start off slow and after turning over maybe 3 or 4 times it speeds up to normal.
Before this started happening my truck would always start by the 2nd or 3rd turn over.
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Wow. I'm an idiot! I just popped the hood and found the ground clamp on the battery was loose.
Tightened it up and she's good to go.
I'm not 100% sure on what the knock sensor does, I'm guessing something to do with pinging.
Could the loose ground throw the knock sensor codes? Could the over cranking cause them to throw?
Tightened it up and she's good to go.
I'm not 100% sure on what the knock sensor does, I'm guessing something to do with pinging.
Could the loose ground throw the knock sensor codes? Could the over cranking cause them to throw?
#5
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12 & 13 are signal coil, not knock sensor. The signal coil is in the distrib, connects to the igniter, and then from the igniter on to the ecu (as a wire called "NE"). NE is the crankshaft position signal, and the codes are saying the ecu isn't receiving it. Normally the ecu uses NE as a spark timing baseline, and then sends a spark trigger with advance on wire "IGT" back to the igniter. The igniter can make a spark with just NE from the signal coil, but it doesn't have any advance.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
#6
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12 & 13 are signal coil, not knock sensor. The signal coil is in the distrib, connects to the igniter, and then from the igniter on to the ecu (as a wire called "NE"). NE is the crankshaft position signal, and the codes are saying the ecu isn't receiving it. Normally the ecu uses NE as a spark timing baseline, and then sends a spark trigger with advance on wire "IGT" back to the igniter. The igniter can make a spark with just NE from the signal coil, but it doesn't have any advance.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
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Ground ghosts do funny things. Good for all of us to look for easy fix first, battery terminals, grounds, voltage supply and drop. STOP THE GREMLINS!!! Thanks for the reminder!
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12 & 13 are signal coil, not knock sensor. The signal coil is in the distrib, connects to the igniter, and then from the igniter on to the ecu (as a wire called "NE"). NE is the crankshaft position signal, and the codes are saying the ecu isn't receiving it. Normally the ecu uses NE as a spark timing baseline, and then sends a spark trigger with advance on wire "IGT" back to the igniter. The igniter can make a spark with just NE from the signal coil, but it doesn't have any advance.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
So IF you continue to get the codes, check resistance of the signal coil by pulling it's connector off the igniter, and check clearance between signal rotor lobes and the signal coil projection: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
And check connection between signal coil & igniter, and igniter & ecu (probably black wire w/orange stripe). Also cleaning up igniter ground (mounting bolts) may help.
But it could be that the codes were created only because of the low voltage & rpm, and won't come back now that you have a good batt connection.
Thanks for the info.
I used to go to http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html for engine code info, but the page isn't there anymore. I did a quick google search and it said 12 and 13 were knock sensor related so I went with that... haha, oops. Thanks again, for clarifying
Last edited by mattaway; 06-29-2010 at 03:41 PM.
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Ok, so today I found out the real problem.
I ran some errends today, my truck stalled at a red light. I attempted to start it back up and noticed smoking coming from the battery area of the hood. I pulled the key out of the iginition, popped the hood and seen the - cable smoking. I grabbed some pliers from the floorboard and pulled off the - terminal from the battery. A cop pulled over and helped me push the truck off the road.
I poked around under the hood and found the + cable going to the starter was really hot, I followed it down to the starter and seen the plastic around it was all melted where it bolts to the starter.
Turns out bolt on the starter housing where the cable goes was loose. Not the nut holding the cable on, but the bolt built in the starter.
Replaced the starter, and she's good to go. Cranks normal, no check engine light.
I ran some errends today, my truck stalled at a red light. I attempted to start it back up and noticed smoking coming from the battery area of the hood. I pulled the key out of the iginition, popped the hood and seen the - cable smoking. I grabbed some pliers from the floorboard and pulled off the - terminal from the battery. A cop pulled over and helped me push the truck off the road.
I poked around under the hood and found the + cable going to the starter was really hot, I followed it down to the starter and seen the plastic around it was all melted where it bolts to the starter.
Turns out bolt on the starter housing where the cable goes was loose. Not the nut holding the cable on, but the bolt built in the starter.
Replaced the starter, and she's good to go. Cranks normal, no check engine light.
#11
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Situations like that can cause the battery to explode, spraying sulfuric acid everywhere, so you're lucky. Glad you got it fixed. What's with your electrical system! Maybe you ought to get some sage or cedar and give it a good smudging. Either that or shake a chickens foot to frighten the evil spirits away.
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Situations like that can cause the battery to explode, spraying sulfuric acid everywhere, so you're lucky. Glad you got it fixed. What's with your electrical system! Maybe you ought to get some sage or cedar and give it a good smudging. Either that or shake a chickens foot to frighten the evil spirits away.
As for my electrical problems.... I can't stay out of the mud and water. Down here in SW Florida, we got plenty of both. I rode out to the woods today, and the trails were a foot or more under water, it's been raining alot.
And I'll have to try that sage/cedar thing you're talking about. I work with a Hatian guy, maybe he can do some Voodoo ritual for me
Last edited by mattaway; 07-04-2010 at 11:42 AM.
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