xalier

ok i have a 90 p/u 4wd with 22re i rebuilt the motor about 2 years ago and replaced the waterpump few months ago and the thermostat yesterday.. i bought the radiator new when i put the motor in. the clutch fan is fine and the wp belt is tight also... so here is my question why is the raditor boiling inside??? when everything is new and working properly? i flushed the block out also while i was changing the thermostat yesterday.. has anyone ever experienced this with their 22re? any info is appreciated...

gilby4runner

air trapped in the system?

Hophead

Check your rad cap. If the system does not hold pressure it will boil. Cheap and easy to replace.

xalier

whats the proper way to bleed the air out of the system? ill get a cap..

Tubbyfatty

What i did when i replaced my coolant.

Jacked up the front a little so the rad was higher then the motor. Added coolant till it didnt take anymore. Put the cap on, massage the upper coolant hose and wait till I heard what sounded like a massive air bubble come up (kinda sounds like the end of a toilet flush) then remove the cap and repeat till it doesn't "burp" anymore.

Then I took the cap off, turned the heat to the hottest setting and started the truck up and just slowly added coolant till it didnt take anymore. After about 5 min I put the cap on and ran it till it was up to operating temp. Shut her down and waited for it to cool then checked the coolant again.

peckinpah

Is your fan belt attached and working? What about the fan clutch? Is that working properly?

The only two times my truck has boiled over has been when my fan belt broke, and when I replaced the fan clutch and put the blades on backwards, so that the fan was blowing air away from the radiator.

The only other possibility I can think of is a busted thermostat or the wrong model.

This probably won't be much help, but you never know.

xalier

yah the belt is tight and the fan is working properly... and the thermostat is the correct one.. i didnt turn on the heat ect.. as stated above.. should i do that? do you think my heater core is holding air?

Tubbyfatty

Yes, turn your heater all the way hot. It could be possible that the heater core is holding air.

rocketbud

Check the cap, look at the upper and lower rubber seals, if they have cracks in them, replace the cap, in the center of the caps lower rubber seal should be a small metal disc check it is there, most are spring loaded, move it with you fingernail and see if something is under it, hold the cap in the palm of your hand and squeeze it back and forth it, you should feel spring pressure. If that's all cool?

Check that the A/C condenser (if you have A/C) That it is not clogged with hair, dirt, or feathers from all the birds you been hitting... Then check the fined area of your radiator the same (a good pressure from your garden hose will clean these pretty good) If that's all cool?

Drain your radiator about 2" look inside as far that you can see to the right and the left, are the tubes going downward clogged...White calcium build-up and sometime silicone gasket maker (From an over active mechanic) it is normal to see calcium in there, just as long as it's not enough to close the tubes off that water can't flow though them. If that's all cool?

Check two things when the engine is running (1) let it run for a bit and get hot, notice if your fan clutch is kicking in (a definite loud wooing noise when you rev the throttle) If not you may have a bad fan clutch, then if that seems OK, (2) turn off the engine reach your hands down in between the fan blades and feel the radiator core (every area should feel the same temperature where ever you touch it. If there are cold ereas all over it, the radiator core is clogged internally, Take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it cleaned. If that's all cool?

Take your thermostat out, put it back together without it, start it up, now with the cap off do you see flow in the radiator, You should and if you grab the throttle and throttle it up you should see a ton of flow, if you don't..... You have a radiator that is clogged or a water pump that the impeller has fallen off of (impeller 1 in a billion chance) If that's all cool?

Remove the radiator cap (engine cold) take the radiator overflow tube off of the overflow bottle, get a glass of water.. half full, start the engine, put the overflow tube down in the bottom of the glass of water, place your hand firmly over the radiator cap opening (again make sure this is a freaking COLD engine) at least cold enough that the water won't burn you, Now a few bubbles in the cup of water is normal (as the water in the engine warms up and expands it pushes out a little air) ..... but have someone rev the engine just a bit, if your cup of water starts looking like it's boiling........ a bunch of bubbles?........ BUMMER..... you have a blown head-gasket, (most likely) or cracked block or head.

fork

sorry to go a little off-topic here..

will running without a thermostat cause any real problems?

toyota4x4907

is the anti-freeze/water ratio at least 50/50? I recommend 60/40 (anti-freeze/water, respectively). Anti-freeze also increases the boiling temp of water.

rocketbud

Back in the old day's, not much, but with all the computer operated engine controls there are you would not want to run an engine cold all the time, It would sort of be like driving down the road with the "choke on" There are sensors on the engine that give or deprive fuel, advance or retard timing, even tell your tranny when to shift. Then there is the fact that all metal has an expansion and contraction rate, Your engines Main & rod bearings where built to run at a certain temperature to the crank shaft size when it is hot, running an engine cold tightens all of it's tolerances. So in short you can do that for diagnostic proposes but you would not want to run a cold engine all the time.

surf4runner

bad radiator killed my 3 mo rebuild and the shop that did it was pissed they had to redo it!