R154/R150F Hybrid Question
#1
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R154/R150F Hybrid Question
I Want to make a 7MGTE motor mate up to a 4x4 drive train.
I have som experience re building R154's
My Plan:
As outlined in a thread from pirate4x4 I would like to hybrid the two transmission by basically replacing all the parts on the r150f output shaft with those from the R154, that way I can use the R154 Counter and Input shaft.
(From Pirate4x4)
My question concerns the Intermediate plate and shift forks.
Which Intermediate plate should I use? R154 or R150f?
Also the R154 has 4 Shift fork shafts which run through the Intermediate plate while the R150f has only 3 that run through the intermediate plate.
Lastly Which Reverse gear should I use?
I have som experience re building R154's
My Plan:
As outlined in a thread from pirate4x4 I would like to hybrid the two transmission by basically replacing all the parts on the r150f output shaft with those from the R154, that way I can use the R154 Counter and Input shaft.
I think all I need out of the r154 to make this work is the input shaft, counter shaft, and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear off the r154's output shaft to install on my output shaft.
My question concerns the Intermediate plate and shift forks.
Which Intermediate plate should I use? R154 or R150f?
Also the R154 has 4 Shift fork shafts which run through the Intermediate plate while the R150f has only 3 that run through the intermediate plate.
Lastly Which Reverse gear should I use?
#3
Well, I don't have any experience with it. But I understand the theory. Atleast enough to know that you'll have to use the intermediate plate from the R150 or you won't be able to make it bolt up directly to the extension housing/transfer adapter(I'm pretty sure). And you would then also need to use the R150 transmission case as well(for sure). Basically, no, you can't swap the intermediate plates.
I would think that the easiest way to accomplish your mission is to just swap the bellhousings and input shafts. Then your 7M-GTE should bolt up to the R150F. Unless there's some reason why it wouldn't. Which there doesn't appear to be. But if you're wanting the lower drive gearing(and/or the higher OD) from the R154, then you'll have to swap all the other parts necessary to achieve that into the R150F.
AFAIK all R-series transmissions have a 4.22:1 reverse gear. But I don't think you can swap them between an R154 and an R150, and still end up with the same ratio. To remain the same, I'd think they'd have to be matched with the same cluster gear ratio(input/counter shaft gearing).
I would think that the easiest way to accomplish your mission is to just swap the bellhousings and input shafts. Then your 7M-GTE should bolt up to the R150F. Unless there's some reason why it wouldn't. Which there doesn't appear to be. But if you're wanting the lower drive gearing(and/or the higher OD) from the R154, then you'll have to swap all the other parts necessary to achieve that into the R150F.
AFAIK all R-series transmissions have a 4.22:1 reverse gear. But I don't think you can swap them between an R154 and an R150, and still end up with the same ratio. To remain the same, I'd think they'd have to be matched with the same cluster gear ratio(input/counter shaft gearing).
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-02-2012 at 08:52 AM.
#5
I was thinking the same thing. But I can't remember if there's a way to swap the gears on the input shafts or not(I don't know 100% for sure if they're compatible). Isn't the gear pressed onto the shaft/removable though? So maybe you could? I would think you could anyway. Or what about also swapping the counter gear on the counter shaft to match? Do in need to go crack open my spare R150 to find out?
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-02-2012 at 08:31 AM.
#6
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I have had my R154 apart fairly recently and I have the TSRM for both truck and supra
and I beleive that the Input Shaft is all one peice with the only detatchable parts being the Syncro, bearings and snap rings.
The counter shaft is the same with 5th ger being the only removable gear.
My MAIN concern is the shift fork sitution. Which hubs and forks should I use. I will get my R150F later next week and I will try to post up some pictures and answer some of my own questions.
and I beleive that the Input Shaft is all one peice with the only detatchable parts being the Syncro, bearings and snap rings.
The counter shaft is the same with 5th ger being the only removable gear.
My MAIN concern is the shift fork sitution. Which hubs and forks should I use. I will get my R150F later next week and I will try to post up some pictures and answer some of my own questions.
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I need a longer 5th gear, so I took both gearboxes apart a while back to have a look what can be swapped.
Found that you can swap the casings, but not swap shafts (with the gears).
You cannot swap the short R150f input shaft with all gears and shafts from a R154. The gearratios are different on the gear thats solid with the input shaft so they will never match properly.
You need to fab a custom bellhousing like I did or go with the stock R154 plus that bellhouse and pull clutch.
This is also the best solution cause the push clutch will sooner or later be destroyed cause it cannot handle the torque if you tune the engine.
Attleast mine was shredded.
Hope all this makes sense
Found that you can swap the casings, but not swap shafts (with the gears).
You cannot swap the short R150f input shaft with all gears and shafts from a R154. The gearratios are different on the gear thats solid with the input shaft so they will never match properly.
You need to fab a custom bellhousing like I did or go with the stock R154 plus that bellhouse and pull clutch.
This is also the best solution cause the push clutch will sooner or later be destroyed cause it cannot handle the torque if you tune the engine.
Attleast mine was shredded.
Hope all this makes sense
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#8
i put all the guts of a r154 into a r150 and swapped the output shaft of course. r154 bell, centerforce dual friction clutch.
That doesn't look like a custom bellhousing to me.
However, here's where my experience in the matter does come into play. In the process of trying to keep a really old R150 working, I tore it apart and replaced one of the bearings. The counter gear/shaft front bearing. Which I replaced with one that also replaces said part in the R154. But, the bearing for the R154 is a stronger, more durable design. The difference is that the one for the R150 has a bearing retainer that holds the roller bearings between the races. The use of the bearing retainer allows for fewer rollers to be installed. The one for the R154 has no retainer, and a full complement of rollers(more rollers = more strength, durability, smoothness of operation).
So maybe there's some more parts from an R154 that are worth putting in an R150? I dunno...you tell me.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-05-2012 at 06:37 AM.
#9
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That is the stock R154 bellhouse. Look at the hole for the pull clutch.
So he is using the R154 input and most gears I guess (or swapped a few gears between boxes), the castings of the R150f and mated that to the transfercase.
I actually used a few bearings and synchro's from the R154 ro repair my R150f...
I used the R150f with the short input shaft and after i swapped in a 2JZ I bought a 6 puck racing clutch cause I wanted to keep the stock tranny.
(After I put the turbo intercooler on my 2jz swap I ripped the new stock slutch very fast )
If you have a 8" reardiff; get some spares
So he is using the R154 input and most gears I guess (or swapped a few gears between boxes), the castings of the R150f and mated that to the transfercase.
I actually used a few bearings and synchro's from the R154 ro repair my R150f...
I used the R150f with the short input shaft and after i swapped in a 2JZ I bought a 6 puck racing clutch cause I wanted to keep the stock tranny.
(After I put the turbo intercooler on my 2jz swap I ripped the new stock slutch very fast )
If you have a 8" reardiff; get some spares
#10
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Thread Starter
However, here's where my experience in the matter does come into play. In the process of trying to keep a really old R150 working, I tore it apart and replaced one of the bearings. The counter gear/shaft front bearing. Which I replaced with one that also replaces said part in the R154. But, the bearing for the R154 is a stronger, more durable design. The difference is that the one for the R150 has a bearing retainer that holds the roller bearings between the races. The use of the bearing retainer allows for fewer rollers to be installed. The one for the R154 has no retainer, and a full compliment of rollers(more rollers = more strength, durability, smoothness of operation).
So maybe there's some more parts from an R154 that are worth putting in an R150? I dunno...you tell me.
So maybe there's some more parts from an R154 that are worth putting in an R150? I dunno...you tell me.
My biggest concern as far as drivetrain is the R150f T Case. I hear the Chain Driven does NOT like power. Any one familiar with the breaking point of it?
I am new to the toyota truck scene. I was an MK3 owner with a shot body but solid motor and drive train and decided that owning a car in Northern Ontario is stupid. So I am going truck!
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My gearbox is handling the power just fine. No problems so far, one of my synchro's wasn't in the best shape before the swap, but still was okay after more than 40.000m with the 2JZ.
The R150f is still okay also, but have to admit that I use 4WD rarely sine offroading became illegal here.
My homemade bellhouse doesn't have any cracks in it either, and I'm not the best:wabbit2:
The R150f is still okay also, but have to admit that I use 4WD rarely sine offroading became illegal here.
My homemade bellhouse doesn't have any cracks in it either, and I'm not the best:wabbit2:
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