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I'm doing my freeze plugs and rear main seal and removing my transmission, Manual, R150F on 1995 4wd 4Runner.
The FSM says to remove front differential set bolts (3) which I can't find then, support the front differential. Haynes says to support the engine under the oil pan with a block of wood/jack.
Question: If I cannot support the engine via the oil pan because the front diff is in the way, should I put some sort of support between the oil pan and the front diff, and support the front diff with a jack/jackstand? Would that be safe?
I'm stumped, this is my first time and I dont want something royally screwing up.
I wedged a block of wood between the oil pan and the top of the front diff and left it at that when I did my clutch ('88 pickup, 3vz-e/R150, 4WD) last summer. I don't recall having any issues. I did leave all 4 wheels on the ground for the job if it matters.
ok I got that and it seems to be working. I'm having a really hard time getting the last bolt out of the very top transmission housing.. I've got 24" off extensions but can't for the life off me get the bolt loose from this horrible angle.. ideas? I dropped the trans about 3 inches to get extra room but still can't get it..
Yeah I've got one of the angle socket adapters with a long pair off extensions but I can't get a good angle on it in order to break it loose with the breaker bar.. I saw somewhere that you can go through the inside of the cab shift lever hole but I'm doing this by myself.. might have to employ the kid next door to help me get it.. two arms don't seem to be enough..
Thanks for the advice/help.. after lots of frustrating attemps with no success I walked away for a little bit and re-grouped. Went back out and tried the simplest way, with my socket wrench and NO extensions. When I went through the driver's side wheel well I just loosened it and took the bolt out.. Hah . If I had tried the normal way before all that mess with the extensions I would have saved myself lots of trouble and time.
I made the mistake of figuring the center weight position on the whole transmission and got it WAY wrong, had to tilt the thing forward and drop it just to get the room so I can sit under there and do the rest of the work. I hope to clean this thing off really good also LOL what a mess. I'll definitely get help putting it back up when the time comes..
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.. now to eat dinner, wake up and make my first clutch removal attempt.. I'm super excited that I got my first tranny drop under my belt..
Last edited by voiddweller; 06-10-2015 at 04:25 PM.
So here is the leaky freeze plug and rear main.. It looks like someone took the time to replace ONE freeze plug and not the other.. hah
My rear main seal kit from fram came with a paper gasket for the housing.. Should I use that or use some rtv seal maker instead? I've never used either.. First time for me.
I have a suspected bad Tcase in the 91 P/U, VIN says a W56 but nowhere does what I have look remotely like a W56.
A few days ago I saw a 93 FSM and the closest I came to was the 150 with the ganged shifters combined plate.
I like to hope it's just bad shifter positioning causing it not to shift,
but I might have to pull the 150 as a unit to remove the Tcase..
I have a little more room as it has a 3 inch BL
Good Luck and Thanks for confirming..
I see you're a fan of Harbor Freight
Last edited by shadowbirdie; 06-11-2015 at 02:14 PM.
I have a suspected bad Tcase in the 91 P/U, VIN says a W56 but nowhere does what I have look remotely like a W56.
A few days ago I saw a 93 FSM and the closest I came to was the 150 with the ganged shifters combined plate.
I like to hope it's just bad shifter positioning causing it not to shift,
but I might have to pull the 150 as a unit to remove the Tcase..
I have a little more room as it has a 3 inch BL
Good Luck and Thanks for confirming..
I see you're a fan of Harbor Freight
Yep, the transmission jack with a 20% off coupon was a steal.. works great so far..
Still trying to find out if I need just paper gasket or gasket maker/both for the oil seal housing.. guess i'll go ask the people at the auto parts store LOL
I have a gravel drive and no garage so a logistical nightmare but we'll get through it, but still hoping the previous goobers just made an error. It still ran great when I bought it, just wouldn't shift to 4 wheel $1500 was a deal for a san diego no rust unit, working on putting the 22RE back together after tearing it down to just the block.
On the gaskets I use the orange high temp RTV (permatex) on everything except where liquid fuel is involved as it says on the package. I used gas and oil resistant sealer (smells like model glue) for the cold fuel intake port with a fiber gasket, and as advised used nothing but the fiber gasket alone for the throttle body to the air plenum. seemed to make sense as I don't want any contamination inside the throttle body do I? But the surfaces must be absolutely clean and undamaged to get away with that.
This is a hobby truck, never tore one down, never had to as it be Toyota. Didn't know they put freeze plugs at the rear of the block, must have been done professionally, an owner probably would have done both while they were in there. A pro sees future money
Hope all goes well and welcome to Yotatech!! I haven't been here all that long
I have a gravel drive and no garage so a logistical nightmare but we'll get through it, but still hoping the previous goobers just made an error. It still ran great when I bought it, just wouldn't shift to 4 wheel $1500 was a deal for a san diego no rust unit, working on putting the 22RE back together after tearing it down to just the block.
On the gaskets I use the orange high temp RTV (permatex) on everything except where liquid fuel is involved as it says on the package. I used gas and oil resistant sealer (smells like model glue) for the cold fuel intake port with a fiber gasket, and as advised used nothing but the fiber gasket alone for the throttle body to the air plenum. seemed to make sense as I don't want any contamination inside the throttle body do I? But the surfaces must be absolutely clean and undamaged to get away with that.
This is a hobby truck, never tore one down, never had to as it be Toyota. Didn't know they put freeze plugs at the rear of the block, must have been done professionally, an owner probably would have done both while they were in there. A pro sees future money
Hope all goes well and welcome to Yotatech!! I haven't been here all that long
Thanks, thats a nice clean looking engine u got there.. removing the tcase without a flat paved surface sounds painful.. maybe a few sheets of plywood or friends garage/driveway?
voiddweller, glad you got your clutch replaced. In the near future I'll be attempting my first tranny drop as well since I got a leaky rear main seal. I'll have to figure out a way to support the engine once it's loose from the tranny since I currently have the diff and the oil pan removed (replacing the oil pump seal). Maybe a tall jack stand.
I see in your pic that you left the starter on when you removed your R150F. I've been told that I'd have to remove the starter. Did you have any trouble by leaving it on?
Voiddweller i myself would use the proper gasket along with a gasket dressing of somekind. Take note there are gasket makers which is your standard type of rtv black, blue, grey, orange and so on then there is the gasket dressing for using with your standard gasket. I prefer the gasket with dressing on both sides.
06-10-2015, 07:27 AM
