Questions about pressing out UCA bushings
11-05-2016, 02:17 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Questions about pressing out UCA bushings
So i have done quite a bit of searching without any good results, but i am curious if someone could give me a heads up on this....
My 89 4Runner is at right about 290k miles, and in need of some front end service. I figured i would replace the ball joints, and also do the bushings while i had it apart if they are in need of service as well... I plan on using new rubber bushings and would prefer to not mess with polyurethane.
My question is, even with looking at the Factory service manual with pictures of the SST pressing out the UCA bushings.. I can't make out exactly what they are trying to show...
So, correct me if I am wrong, but from what I can tell, in order to remove them, (theoretically, if they were still bolted on the frame) the front bushing need to be pressed out towards the "front" of the truck, and the rear bushings get pressed out towards the rear of the truck? and the shaft that bolts to the actual frame can only be removed once the bushings are pressed out?
How could you gain access with a press to push them out with the shaft in the way? i could see how the lower control arm bushings could be pressed out with a ball joint press, but whats the actual method for the upper bushings?
I'm almost thinking I may just take them to some machine shop and just have them do the pressing for me!
My 89 4Runner is at right about 290k miles, and in need of some front end service. I figured i would replace the ball joints, and also do the bushings while i had it apart if they are in need of service as well... I plan on using new rubber bushings and would prefer to not mess with polyurethane.
My question is, even with looking at the Factory service manual with pictures of the SST pressing out the UCA bushings.. I can't make out exactly what they are trying to show...
So, correct me if I am wrong, but from what I can tell, in order to remove them, (theoretically, if they were still bolted on the frame) the front bushing need to be pressed out towards the "front" of the truck, and the rear bushings get pressed out towards the rear of the truck? and the shaft that bolts to the actual frame can only be removed once the bushings are pressed out?
How could you gain access with a press to push them out with the shaft in the way? i could see how the lower control arm bushings could be pressed out with a ball joint press, but whats the actual method for the upper bushings?
I'm almost thinking I may just take them to some machine shop and just have them do the pressing for me!
Last edited by YoshiMan; 11-05-2016 at 02:54 PM.
11-05-2016, 02:40 PM
#2
Registered User
As I understand it
Most of this time, the question comes up, with respect to people doing urathane bushings.
The OEM bushings have an INNER metal sleeve and an OUTER metal shell.
The bushings fit into the arm as a press fit of the outer metal SHELL of the bushing and the "hole" in the upper A arm.
The upper arms in particular, the "side" of the sheet steel - 1/8"? is all that retains the shell.
Note that on the OEM bushings, the rubber is BONDED to both the inner sleeve and the outer shell.
Thats why for the OEM bushings, you have to set the camber/caster bolts with the truck LOADED on the ground. This is so the RUBBER is not under TWIST at normal rest / ride height.
If you set the camber/caster bolts and tighten them while the truck is up in the air on jack stands - you will "set" the rubber at full droop, and at normal ride height, the rubber will be twisted (and adding a tad of spring effect - but also - probably leading to premature failure of the rubber)
As far as I know - you completely remove the arms (upper and lower) and take them over to a press - to get the bushings out.
I took a look at the FSM (I have a paper one - Phone book sized!)
They show the tools pressing the bushing out - IN A PRESS (i.e. removed from the vehicle)
BTW - for URETHANE bushings, the process is different - you want to LEAVE the outer shell attached to the arms, and then remove the inner sleeves and re-use those...
Thats why people BURN the rubber out.
BTW I've been able to remove the rubber ones with various "dies" in a H frame press and spraying it with WD-40
Crank the pressure up - spray and wait.
Comes out nice and clean like!
Most of this time, the question comes up, with respect to people doing urathane bushings.
The OEM bushings have an INNER metal sleeve and an OUTER metal shell.
The bushings fit into the arm as a press fit of the outer metal SHELL of the bushing and the "hole" in the upper A arm.
The upper arms in particular, the "side" of the sheet steel - 1/8"? is all that retains the shell.
Note that on the OEM bushings, the rubber is BONDED to both the inner sleeve and the outer shell.
Thats why for the OEM bushings, you have to set the camber/caster bolts with the truck LOADED on the ground. This is so the RUBBER is not under TWIST at normal rest / ride height.
If you set the camber/caster bolts and tighten them while the truck is up in the air on jack stands - you will "set" the rubber at full droop, and at normal ride height, the rubber will be twisted (and adding a tad of spring effect - but also - probably leading to premature failure of the rubber)
As far as I know - you completely remove the arms (upper and lower) and take them over to a press - to get the bushings out.
I took a look at the FSM (I have a paper one - Phone book sized!)
They show the tools pressing the bushing out - IN A PRESS (i.e. removed from the vehicle)
BTW - for URETHANE bushings, the process is different - you want to LEAVE the outer shell attached to the arms, and then remove the inner sleeves and re-use those...
Thats why people BURN the rubber out.
BTW I've been able to remove the rubber ones with various "dies" in a H frame press and spraying it with WD-40
Crank the pressure up - spray and wait.
Comes out nice and clean like!
Last edited by ewong; 11-05-2016 at 02:43 PM.
11-05-2016, 03:01 PM
#3
Registered User
In theory you could do the upper arms without the sst or equivalent but it would be allot of work and would still need a press.
1) burn out existing bushings
2) remove cross shaft
3) collapse outer shells, or press them out
4) press in one of the new bushings, I think the larger one is the one you do first.
5) insert cross shaft
6) this is where it gets tricky. At this point you will need something like a piece of pipe that is slotted down the entire length of the pipe. It will fit over the cross shaft and offer support at the 2 inner ends of the a arm to keep it from collapsing when the other bushing is pressed in.
Hope it all makes sense
Cheers
1) burn out existing bushings
2) remove cross shaft
3) collapse outer shells, or press them out
4) press in one of the new bushings, I think the larger one is the one you do first.
5) insert cross shaft
6) this is where it gets tricky. At this point you will need something like a piece of pipe that is slotted down the entire length of the pipe. It will fit over the cross shaft and offer support at the 2 inner ends of the a arm to keep it from collapsing when the other bushing is pressed in.
Hope it all makes sense
Cheers
11-05-2016, 03:37 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats exactly what i am trying to figure out! Is how the heck that SST works in order to reach in between the control arms bushings and push them outwards..
I'm almost thinking i might just have a machine shop do the bushings, because it looks like a complete pain in the butt!
I'm almost thinking i might just have a machine shop do the bushings, because it looks like a complete pain in the butt!
11-05-2016, 04:08 PM
#5
Registered User
looking at the FSM
The "C" shaped bridge is used to shove on the ARM (not the bushing)
It looks like the other SST is a "C" shaped tube.
This, along with two metal bars to bridge the upper arm shaft - is used to push against the BUSHING shell.
So the press forces the arm down and the bushing rises UP towards the "front" the spindle.
The whole thing sits in an H frame press..
https://jet.com/product/detail/4e6fc...IBEg&gclsrc=ds
The "C" shaped bridge is used to shove on the ARM (not the bushing)
It looks like the other SST is a "C" shaped tube.
This, along with two metal bars to bridge the upper arm shaft - is used to push against the BUSHING shell.
So the press forces the arm down and the bushing rises UP towards the "front" the spindle.
The whole thing sits in an H frame press..
https://jet.com/product/detail/4e6fc...IBEg&gclsrc=ds
