hilandfrog

Here are some pics of the "new" to me 94 extra cab, $500 truck....

Body and paint are nice for a 16YO truck.



151K miles... out of the 2 engines I hope to have one running well, w/o leaks.



The truck sat for 2 years like this, no hood, engine in bed....



The Inside looks nice, getting some Subaru Outback leather heated seats this week $90







So my questions......

The MAF didn't pass the OHM test the FSM said to do on it....
New or used, where.
The TPS has been sitting on the motor any worries elements/ corrosion wise or just test it and be done?
Any other Major electricle things I should look at under the hood??
-dielectric grease is going to be my friend.
Fuses look to be good very little oxidation/rust

The Intake has been loosened yet still on block, it appears to have all the parts, Should I merely check inside both head and "tubes" w/ a flashlight, clean as necessary and move on, replacing gaskets of course?
or is this a big deal and I need to investigate more?

The original engine has 151K miles, the Previous owner (PO) complained it was over heating, no IDEA of what dammage yet, it is still in his yard in town.
The "donor" is a "runner", so I've been assured by PO, yet millage and conditions totally unknown.
-lots of oil from drivers bottom of timing cover.
-EGR tubes appear cleanish
-"looks" to either have been kept fairly clean or somewhat low millage motor~60-70K???

#1 and #4 pistons tops appear a "little" black around the walls, looking through the spark plug holes,.
Is "some" black normal or should the tops be clean and this is a good sign to remove head:cry
-basically I don't WANT to take the head off as it seems to be the next big $$ mark for repairs and parts, gasket, bolts, machining....
Is there a way to say ya or nay by "looking" through spark plug holes
I'll remove the pan and clean it up a bit, checking bottom end

Fuel injectors, let them be, Remove and have cleaned an mapped.

The clutch has been on the fly wheel for these 2 years... soak pressure plate in steering fluid and buy new throwout.. or go all new.

Emptied ~5-8 gal of really foul smelling gas from tank..
-do I worry about "sock/ filter" INSIDE tank
-some kind of chemical rinse out and wash, just run a few gal of "good" gas through?
-?? blow out fuel lines, ??
-anything else on fuel system I should be concerned w/, Yes I'll get a new filter...

the brakes... they all seem to work.... ain't broke don't fix....??

Exhaust is shot... looks like from the cat all the way to the tail pipe is rusted out....
-Replace Cat yes or no
-is there a muffler preference, staying "stock", keeping in mind $$ and quality, would like to keep it quite.
- is a new "y" a better place to start w/ new exhaust system than further back by the cat?


The Subaru leather heated seats....

I know there will be some fabbing, but The 60/40 split is not good for longer drives... well this set isn't, not for us anyhow, town is 40 miles each way.
I found an article that stated this could be done w/ 1st gens...
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=168

I hope the Electrical part is as easy as adding the off/hi/low switch and the seats plug in

While I know the FSM will be great, I'm also looking for Lables hose/ wire pics for


I'll come back and add pics as I gather more questions, there will be plenty.


Thanks for any time spent answering my questions.




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dark_fairytales

as for the tps: just check it out with a multi meter. that should tell you if it is good.

check to see that the rotating aysembly rotates smoothly by hand.

as for the intake and head. you have the engine out already. It would be just a good idea to to pull the head and clean up the intake. with you engine out its a real easy job.

keep track of all the parts, and you will be happy you did pull the head to check things out.

FOLLOW THE FSM.

melicha8

I just finished my headgasket job on my 22re and to answer your question about pictures I'd take a look at superbleeders rebuild page he has lots of before pics to see where all the vac tubes go. If you get stuck or cant find the order or where one goes look under the hood(assuming you have one). Just follow the diagram for routing. It is near impossible to follow the metal tubing through all the other crap above it. Even though the diagram has it snaking all over the place just connect them in order from front to back. ex back most tube in the diagram is the bottom most tube of the three behind the egr valve near the firewall.

hilandfrog

The more I read the more it looks like doing the HEAD is the "right" thing to do at this point in time. just more $$ right.

I have tested the TPS... the #'s look good and it moves smoothly, Going w/ it...

The MAF looks to be about $200, $40 core, I think I'll be looking locally for used.

I started "blowing" out different vacuum lines and other hoses, little problems there.
I haven't looked at the heater core/ hoses/ valve yet but hoping they are OK.
Superbleeders rebuild page is just the type of rebuild pics I'm looking for, there are many rebuilds not many w/ labels.

My FSM is the deal but I like pics.....


Thanks for the responses


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hilandfrog

So both motors were pretty rough....

The best of the 2 blocks needed to be taken down a bit, .20 over I think?
The other... well not my problem

Crank was in specs,

Head is getting a full body w/ happy ending

Everything else is getting ordered and I'm waiting and cleaning and tapping and dieing.


Seems the last guy only did the top end and it appears nothing lasted long, lots of bad looking bearings.
I'd say mainly from poor workmanship, too much rtv blocking holes and not getting the plastic timing rail out of the oil pan.
Lots of little particles of plastic all over, I think this is what stripped the bearings:dunnno

There was a nice "newish", no wear makes to speak of, DOA metal guides, gears and timing chain I'll be reusing:clap

Too much RTV







Dirty intake too



I'm cleaning up all the pieces yet I do not know what this part is...
It is screwed into the bottom of the throttle body has 2 ports
looks like this







My questions are, WTF is it, so I can look it up FSM or search here.
and the screw plunger thingy...
if one removes 4 more screw and then unscrews a cap a plunger and a spring come out.



When replacing these things, how does one know when it is screwed in far enough, is it a feel thing a thread count what... :dunno



Next question the gaskets, will master rebuild kits come w/ this rubber gasket?



Will it come w/ this end gasket to cover the plunger I was asking about previously...?




Thanks,

Please keep checking back to answer more stupid questions, if you can!



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toyota4x4907

That, my friend, is the Idle Air Control Valve, IACV from here on. It uses the temperature of the coolant to control idle speed. Uses a wax valve much like the thermostat to allow more or less air pass the throttle plate to idle up or down.

hilandfrog

Wow you are fast thank you....

The plunger, errr more to the point the threaded cap, keeping plunger down,
The one inside the IACV, how do I know when it is in the right spot?

Thread count, 1/2 way, just like so ....???

Thanks

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EDIT:

I'll be reading up on it, just looking for the easy answer,

thanks for the name.

c0ugar69

I dont think gaskets for the throttle body come in the kit, only the gasket to attach the throttle body to the intake. also the kit comes with nnew o-rings for the injectors but no the 2 other rubber parts, i bought the seals in town for those. Your gettigg a litle deeper tha I got on mine. looks like a nice truck.

hilandfrog

Thanks... the truck seems to be really straight, little rust, very few dings, and the Heated Leather Subaru seats will be a great addition for winter driving.

This will be the wife's daily driver, so I'm taking it as far as I can W/out removing the drive train.

Everything is getting a good cleaning, even the carpets are removed, the rear section will be a "platform" for the dogs and under storage for goodies.

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hilandfrog

So here we are, thurs night, I think I have the majority of my parts in and time is slipping away.

Fences to mend and build, slash piles to burn, fields to harrow woe is me...

I'm looking at a cam the local shop says to use....

the intake and exhaust are the same in duration and lift...

The specs are 210’ duration @ .050 .420 lift. improves rpm range 1200-4500


This truck is for my wife to drive 60+ miles each day, I wanted better not beast.

Still haven't found how many turns/ how deep/ how tight the cap goes on covering the piston in the IACV:dunno

I gotta go to town AGAIN tomorrow for both distrib O rings + oil pick up and the Big Brass Screw on the intake O rings
Talking to the fix it kids before or after part$ will solve this I hope

I have a felpro head gasket, go OEM???

Later

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hilandfrog

the motor is almost complete, got the intake and hard lines routed today, plus cleaned a whole bunch of stuff.

Ended up using the rock gasket that came w/ ENG builders kit.

O rings came in and the AC O rings are the next ordering Item, other than haveing to really clean our the interior "cod box" and purchase 3 bolts a bit longer for the t-chain cover housing and the AC bracket, this kit has had the parts I have needed.
$250 seems like a good thing so far.


I think the TPS is correctly set????

I still need to pull the IACV off the donor/ mock up motor for this one.

Exhaust will get started tomorrow baring anything coming up.


I thing the total including parts 4-runner and truck purchase price we are $2K
Going to be $2500 once all is said and done, about $500 more than counted on , yet AC, leather seats and a parts truck.....

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