Pulling Trailer causes not to start
#1
Pulling Trailer causes not to start
Sorry if this problem has been addressed but I did search this out before posting and have not seen exactly the same issue anywhere. I have a 1994 4 Runner 4x4 with a 3VZ-E engine with about 195,000 miles on body but 10,000 miles on engine.
To start out timing belt was flapping so I took it to be replaced and to get it in timed. Got it back from mechanic. The speedo and odometer quit working but was fine when i took it to mechanic. I drove it about 100 miles and when I turned it off the engine would not crank unless I kept the accelerator down to the floor and it finally cranked but sounded like a banana or something had the tailpipe clogged up. Finally the engine cranked up. Took it back to the mechanic. Said timing wasn't staying so he replaced the timing idler pulley and it took 2 weeks to come from Japan. Drove with a trailer about 60 miles and turned engine off and same thing, barely start and sounded like an old VW beetle. The truck was hesitating badly so I returned it to mechanic. Tried to read the computer but it would read anything so he told me I went to find another one at junk yard. Found one at junkyard and plugged it in and the speedo and odometer still not working. Not ECM.
Did some research and found that the VSS vehicle speed sensor in transfer case could be the culprit. Bought one without gear. No fix. Bought another with gear because gear looked worn and was shorter than 3 inches in length. Told me it was beyond his knowledge to go to Toyota dealership. Did and finally they found a burnt spot in the cluster so the installed a new speedo. No fix but VSS1 is spinning. Adjusted timing, idle speed and the distributor. One day the speedo and odometer began working.
Drove over 600 miles and no problems but in each gear the engine lags until it hits 3000 rpm and then it takes off like it should. Pulled trailer and it hesitates and then kill the engine and it will barely crank. Just a recap the truck runs fairly well excepts hesitates slightly and then takes off at 3000 rpm in every gear but when a trailer is pulled even a short distance like 20 miles the truck runs fine until the engine is turned off for maybe 15 minutes. Then the accelerator pedal has to be to the floor while cranking and it sounds like and old VW beetle with no muffler sputtering and spitting with fuel smell out of the tailpipe. Truck has no catalytic converter (just realized that today) was taken off before i bought the thing. Love the truck. I have never gotten stuck and have pulled out Jeeps 4x4, Ford F-150 4x4, and Chevrolet 4x4 not to mention many cars.
This is what I have checked/replaced:
Timing belt replaced
Idler pulley replaced
Water pump replaced
Distributor replaced
Rotor button replaced
Wires and plugs replaced
Checked all vacuum hoses
Speedo/Odometer replaced
Replaced Air Flow Meter with one from a salvage yard
Changed oil/filter
Changed fuel filter
I'm not a mechanic, I'm just a deputy sheriff that wants his truck running best it can so try to use simple terms because I feel as though I'm in over my head. Three mechanics later and I don't know what to do. Thanks.
To start out timing belt was flapping so I took it to be replaced and to get it in timed. Got it back from mechanic. The speedo and odometer quit working but was fine when i took it to mechanic. I drove it about 100 miles and when I turned it off the engine would not crank unless I kept the accelerator down to the floor and it finally cranked but sounded like a banana or something had the tailpipe clogged up. Finally the engine cranked up. Took it back to the mechanic. Said timing wasn't staying so he replaced the timing idler pulley and it took 2 weeks to come from Japan. Drove with a trailer about 60 miles and turned engine off and same thing, barely start and sounded like an old VW beetle. The truck was hesitating badly so I returned it to mechanic. Tried to read the computer but it would read anything so he told me I went to find another one at junk yard. Found one at junkyard and plugged it in and the speedo and odometer still not working. Not ECM.
Did some research and found that the VSS vehicle speed sensor in transfer case could be the culprit. Bought one without gear. No fix. Bought another with gear because gear looked worn and was shorter than 3 inches in length. Told me it was beyond his knowledge to go to Toyota dealership. Did and finally they found a burnt spot in the cluster so the installed a new speedo. No fix but VSS1 is spinning. Adjusted timing, idle speed and the distributor. One day the speedo and odometer began working.
Drove over 600 miles and no problems but in each gear the engine lags until it hits 3000 rpm and then it takes off like it should. Pulled trailer and it hesitates and then kill the engine and it will barely crank. Just a recap the truck runs fairly well excepts hesitates slightly and then takes off at 3000 rpm in every gear but when a trailer is pulled even a short distance like 20 miles the truck runs fine until the engine is turned off for maybe 15 minutes. Then the accelerator pedal has to be to the floor while cranking and it sounds like and old VW beetle with no muffler sputtering and spitting with fuel smell out of the tailpipe. Truck has no catalytic converter (just realized that today) was taken off before i bought the thing. Love the truck. I have never gotten stuck and have pulled out Jeeps 4x4, Ford F-150 4x4, and Chevrolet 4x4 not to mention many cars.
This is what I have checked/replaced:
Timing belt replaced
Idler pulley replaced
Water pump replaced
Distributor replaced
Rotor button replaced
Wires and plugs replaced
Checked all vacuum hoses
Speedo/Odometer replaced
Replaced Air Flow Meter with one from a salvage yard
Changed oil/filter
Changed fuel filter
I'm not a mechanic, I'm just a deputy sheriff that wants his truck running best it can so try to use simple terms because I feel as though I'm in over my head. Three mechanics later and I don't know what to do. Thanks.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I can`t believe well I can!1
You paid to have all this work done and no one ever really checked much of anything .
When changing a timing belt on these 3.0 engines compression at least should be checked before spending all the money.
Even the dealer guys didn`t pick up how poor it was running.
I think even without the trailer it would have started hard if at all.
You paid to have all this work done and no one ever really checked much of anything .
When changing a timing belt on these 3.0 engines compression at least should be checked before spending all the money.
Even the dealer guys didn`t pick up how poor it was running.
I think even without the trailer it would have started hard if at all.
#4
Head gaskets. Will this be a costly repair? I bought the runner from a mechanic who towed it from the Interstate (he owns a wrecker service as well), the owner never came back for it so it he filed paperwork on it. He rebuilt engine and transmission as well as other misc work on the truck. When I bought it from him, he was driving it over 100 miles to and from his hunting camp because it got better gas mileage than his F-250. So blake.nemitz could it be the head gaskets when the engine was rebuilt 4 years ago before I bought it? Thanks.
#6
Registered User
In addition to timing and distributor checks, it sounds like you may be running rich. On EFI vehicles pressing the gas pedal when starting only opens the throttle to let in air and actually leans the mix out. Fuel is all CPU controlled. You might try disconnecting your cold start injector - electrical plug connector at top-middle of the passenger side of intake manifold and see if that affects symptoms at all. Might be worth checking fuel pressure regulators also , there are threads on here dealing with the procedure.
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07-06-2015 01:20 PM