Proper 3vze VAFM Readings
03-01-2017, 11:37 PM
#1
Proper 3vze VAFM Readings
I suspect a bad VAFM because of non sustainable idle and terrible fuel ratio. I have a few ideas but perhaps the Vafm is the culprit. The FSM is kind of obscure in the specifications.
It says: E2 - VS with vane closed = 200 - 600 Ohms & E2 - VS vane fully open = 20 - 1200 Ohms. Moving in a wave pattern as you slowly open the vane.
This video I assume represents the correct values (@ 2:55):
And this video is more like what mine shows:
My VAFM test actually was just like the second video, except mine seemed to have a couple deadspots. However, I couldnt rule out my cheapo multimeter causing this. What do you guys think, do you have a running system with those low test values?
It says: E2 - VS with vane closed = 200 - 600 Ohms & E2 - VS vane fully open = 20 - 1200 Ohms. Moving in a wave pattern as you slowly open the vane.
This video I assume represents the correct values (@ 2:55):
And this video is more like what mine shows:
My VAFM test actually was just like the second video, except mine seemed to have a couple deadspots. However, I couldnt rule out my cheapo multimeter causing this. What do you guys think, do you have a running system with those low test values?
03-05-2017, 12:57 AM
#3
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The second video is close enough.
A analog ohm meter is best for testing dead spots.
No need to test for full open, If any of the test
Vs - E2 200 - 600
Vc - E2 200 - 400
VAFM body to any pin = infinity
Not in range of the above = fail
What are you using to measure fuel ratio?
You mention bad, Rich or lean?
A analog ohm meter is best for testing dead spots.
No need to test for full open, If any of the test
Vs - E2 200 - 600
Vc - E2 200 - 400
VAFM body to any pin = infinity
Not in range of the above = fail
What are you using to measure fuel ratio?
You mention bad, Rich or lean?
03-07-2017, 02:46 PM
#5
The test I am referring to is the second chart of tests in this FSM link: http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...92volumeai.pdf
And my fuel ratio is suspected rich, because the spark plugs are wet with fuel, the exhaust smells sort of like 2 stroke, exhaust is very hot and forcfull and at night sometimes have seen sparks shooting out the tailpipe in high RPMs, and the oil is heavily polluted with gasoline at this point from troubleshooting after the rebuild. Sounds like its starving for air at idle, and intermittently backfires fuel into the plenum.
I have checked EVERYTHING including the electrical connections from the ECU to the sensors. My main problem is that I have been on budget and have several replacement parts from the junkyard. The VAFM is a yard pick and has never been drive tested. I also have to rent out the fuel pressure guage from the auto parts store. My replacement Fuel pressure regulator is faulty i think, because I can suck air past the diaphram (although i havent noticed any fuel come out the vacuum port).
[BTW for posterity, all the FSM and chiltons diagrams all over the internet of the the VAFM pinout are wrong... All except for this wiring diagram: http://www.snjschmidt.com/wiring/Eng...rol_3vze_2.jpg Which labels the pins on the VAFM. E1 and FC are pins 1 & 2 respectively. everything else falsely has FC switched as pin 1]
So I think it comes down to FPR, or VAFM. One time I unplugged the TPS while the engine was attempting to idle, and she roared to life and had a stable idle! So i replaced the TPS with a yard pick that electronically tested good and its back to poor idle... and the wierd thing is i cant get it to repeat the roar to life since, TPS plugged in or not. This is another reason that i thought the VAFM, which shares a common sensor ground (E2) with the TPS, could be the culprit that was affected into functioning correctly when the TPS was pulled that one time.
And my fuel ratio is suspected rich, because the spark plugs are wet with fuel, the exhaust smells sort of like 2 stroke, exhaust is very hot and forcfull and at night sometimes have seen sparks shooting out the tailpipe in high RPMs, and the oil is heavily polluted with gasoline at this point from troubleshooting after the rebuild. Sounds like its starving for air at idle, and intermittently backfires fuel into the plenum.
I have checked EVERYTHING including the electrical connections from the ECU to the sensors. My main problem is that I have been on budget and have several replacement parts from the junkyard. The VAFM is a yard pick and has never been drive tested. I also have to rent out the fuel pressure guage from the auto parts store. My replacement Fuel pressure regulator is faulty i think, because I can suck air past the diaphram (although i havent noticed any fuel come out the vacuum port).
[BTW for posterity, all the FSM and chiltons diagrams all over the internet of the the VAFM pinout are wrong... All except for this wiring diagram: http://www.snjschmidt.com/wiring/Eng...rol_3vze_2.jpg Which labels the pins on the VAFM. E1 and FC are pins 1 & 2 respectively. everything else falsely has FC switched as pin 1]
So I think it comes down to FPR, or VAFM. One time I unplugged the TPS while the engine was attempting to idle, and she roared to life and had a stable idle! So i replaced the TPS with a yard pick that electronically tested good and its back to poor idle... and the wierd thing is i cant get it to repeat the roar to life since, TPS plugged in or not. This is another reason that i thought the VAFM, which shares a common sensor ground (E2) with the TPS, could be the culprit that was affected into functioning correctly when the TPS was pulled that one time.
