kyle156

i think it may be a problem with the carb as it seems when the engine is cold the choke wont engange a fast idle and truck wants die unless you give it lots of gas and it stumbles until it warms up a bit also when the truck is warm you have to give it gas to start it and it once again doesnt seem to want to idle unless you drive it a bit seems like its not getting fuel i dont know much about carbs tried some carb cleaner but it didnt help

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Ok, separate the issues based on a cold condition versus a warm condition:

A 22R (carbed of course) can run just fine warm with broken choke components (in some cases). You shouldn't have to goose the throttle to get it to start while it is warm. Unless you can perform a more thorough analysis, all I can say is... download the factory manual (see my signature) and perform a basic tune up.

Literature involving the repair of a carbureted engine will always say to check EVERYTHING ELSE first. This includes, but is not limited to:

1) Valve lash adjustment
2) Ignition timing adjustment
3) Inspection for vacuum leaks
4) Fuel filter condition (does it flow?)
5) Mechanical fuel pump condition (does it pump? Presumably so, if the truck runs at all.)
6) Continuity/voltage testing all major ignition components (with a multimeter, per the factory manual's specifications).

All of this can be tested, and is decently described, in the factory manual.

It could be the carburetor... depending on the truck's history it is bound to be the problem. People have a bad knack of blaming carburetors, because they're "old", so I ask that you maintain an open mind about other things as well. However, I will highlight some basic issues with carburetors:

CARBURETOR
Start with a warm environment. Warm the truck up... drive it around the block yada yada. In the front of the carburetor body is a sight glass displaying the fuel reserve within the carburetor. Shut off the engine and note the fuel level (it should be halfway). If it is below halfway, the floats are out of adjustment and the engine could be starving. If it is above halfway, it could be overloading on fuel (due to mis-adjusted floats, a bad fuel shutoff needle/seat, or damaged floats). This will predominantly effect "short-term heat soak scenarios", Basically, if the truck is hard as heck to start after sitting warmed for ~15 minutes... consider this a potential issue.

If the fuel level within the sight glass is in the middle (roughly... its not rocket science) then check the AAP diaphragm (refer to factory manual). The AAP (Auxilary Accelerator Pump) is a vacuum operated (via a thermo valve) diaphragm used to pump excess fuel into the carburetor (engines like warm air and lots of fuel when cold weather is about).

Referencing the factory manual is best for testing the AAP, but the easiest way to tell if it is an issue is by sucking on the vacuum line running FROM the AAP (front-left of carburetor - facing valve cover). IF you find residual fuel in the vacuum line supplying the AAP, then the diaphragm is compromised. This creates a rich running condition and may cause overloading into the cylinders.

Ok... so I just wrote 2 additional paragraphs and then erased them. I realized they were only solutions for cold starting... not hot. Check everything above. Shoot, you might as well disassemble the carburetor and clean EVERYTHING! Remove jets and look through them. Does light shine through EVERY SINGLE JET?

Remember... download the factory manual. IF you study it enough.... you will become the 22R zen master

kyle156

i think i may have fixed it i replaced the air filter the old was was clogged and super dirty and now it seems to work i dont have to give it gas to start it warm and when its cold the choke enganges the fast idle now also seems to have gained a bit more power so far so good