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Power Steering fails - Check your Reservoir!

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Old 12-13-2012, 09:57 AM
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Power Steering fails - Check your Reservoir!

I apologize if this has been covered before, but I am new here, and I didn't find it with the search function.

I bought a 1991 extra cab 4x4 SR5 3.0L 5-speed about 2 weeks ago - the PO sold it cheap because he was tired of throwing money at it (i have a STACK of receipts that show where he spent the money) - two problems that made it sell cheap. The first was a non-functional clutch - the infamous clutch bracket had risen up and bit this truck on the backside. But I was able to pull that out and reweld it, so the clutch is back in order - at least for now (although I think I see an upgraded bracket on the horizon!)

The second problem was a non-functioning power steering system, and with 33's that wasn't working too well... He had already had the steering gear box replaced, and the power steering pump, and the system STILL wasn't working, so he had the belt off, and the system non-functional (you all know how fun THAT is to move around at slow speeds).

So I put the belt back on, filled the system, and bled it - but the pump whined at me, like it was broke. So I went and bought another pump, figuring it must just be a bad pump. Didn't have time that day to install it, however, and so that evening I was doing some reading, trying to figure out the idle-up system (which also appered to be broken, with the hoses disconnected and a loop between the two sides of the valve - ATF pouring out when I pulled them off). And it began to occur to me that the pump was WORKING (and looked new to boot, as well as I have the receipt showing me that its only a few months old) and I thought - "it just sounds starved." So I went out to take a look at the RESERVOIR - just to make sure I wasn't missing something. Sure enough, there's a screen in the bottom of the reservoir to catch debris - and there was a thick black circle of sludge sitting right over the bottom port that leads into the pump. Try as I might, i could NOT get that cleaned well enough to make me happy - lots of carb cleaner, compressed air, even scraping with q-tips and a scrwdriver - and I could NOT get it clean enough that I thought it would work long-term.

Then I thought, well, maybe the local parts store has an in-line filter - like a fuel filter. Sure enough - they had two. One is sort of a pencil sized "cartridge" that you slide down inside a hose - I did NOT like that design (how the heck do you get it back OUT if you ever need to CHANGE it?) - but the second was $23 and it looked just like a standard fuel filter, except that it has a metal circlip that allows the two ends to pull apart so you can clean the internal screen element. And 3/8 barbs on both ends. Perfect. So I ripped the old screen out of the bottom of the reservoir, and installed the filter in the return line, just before it dumps into the reservoir. Put the system all back together with the old (newish) pump, filled it, jacked the front of the truck up, and bled the system. No more whining. Took it for a spin, and problem fixed. $23 for a filter, and NOT the $89 for a new pump (which wouldn't have worked any better ANYWAYS)!!

So, long story to say that if your power steering pump is going - CHECK that reservoir. They don't seem to be available after-market, but the filters are, so as long as I don't dump frank dirt in the top when I open it to check/add fluid, it should be great.

This is a great site - wouldn't have found the clutch issue and fixed it so easily without you guys!!

Last edited by kuehjo; 12-13-2012 at 10:11 AM.
Old 12-13-2012, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the tip ! Its going in the memory bank
Old 12-13-2012, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kuehjo
... trying to figure out the idle-up system (which also appered to be broken, with the hoses disconnected and a loop between the two sides of the valve - ATF pouring out when I pulled them off). ...
Yup, if ATF comes out, the idle-up is broken. And if I understand your repair correctly, it's still broken. You CAN do without it (as long as the hoses are cinched up tight enough to keep any more fluid from escaping), but it's a hassle. The Idle-up's purpose is to keep you from killing the engine when parallel parking (or rolling over boulders). You'll need to set the base idle unnecessarily high to keep it running.

But the question I have is: "how did the gunk get into your ATF in the first place?" It's a closed system, not exposed (like oil) to combustion products. My guess is that the idle-up failed, and ATF was sloshing back and forth into the induction system. Which on a truck of that age is pretty dirty. If you fix the idle-up, you won't have that problem, and you won't need the inline filter any more than the millions of factory-built trucks do.

By the way; I wasn't able to find the idle up valve separately, so I spent the $89 on a rebuilt when I replaced mine due to leakage. You might consider biting the bullet and doing the same; if that pump has been "whining" from running dry (or running with crud), it's not going to last very long any way.

Good luck!
Old 12-13-2012, 01:13 PM
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I think those are great points you bring up.

Unfortunately, the truck is new to me, so I don't have a lot of history. It does have 215K miles.

The gunk in the reservoir was really only EXACTLY over the outlet, and it wasn't very much - it was just enough though, and had simply collected there on the screen to the point where ultimately it wasn't letting ENOUGH fluid through to keep the pump from running dry. The PO had parked the truck with no belt on the PS steering system at all, and I have no idea how long he ran the system that way. I think they basically parked the truck. But I will have a low threshold to swap the pump if I have to. I think your suspicion of the crud coming from the intake is an excellent thought.

In terms of the idle-up, I will be replacing it. I currently have the valve removed and a bolt filling the spot where the valve should be (the two air/vacuum lines are plugged). The truck actually runs remarkably well, even without it, and even stop to stop - but I'd like to keep it as close to factory (in that regard) as I can. Unfortunately the idle-up valve is a relatively expensive piece to buy new. So I'm watching ebay and Amazon.com. The pump doesnt come with an idle-up anyways - I would have to buy it separately. I've got a few other things to fix still - the muffler has a hole, and the inside is pretty doggy smelling (I think new carpeting and a set of buckets are in order there). The tailgate needs a new handle. The original stock airbox is gone, and theres an OLD K&N air intake setup in there - uses a big oval 4 inch filter - but its so old that much of the filter media has actually left the filter, and its FAR from a cold air system, as it is wide-open to the engine bay and feeds from the cold air intake only in the sense that it still sits in the front driver's corner... I don't even know if K&N still SELLS this filter - or a replacement... And its a Hawaii truck, so theres a little body rot starting to chew at a few corners - not bad, but enough that I need to get on it now and nip that problem in the bud. The windshield and rear windows will have to come out, too, to do that right. Its very small still, but I grew up in upstate New York - I know what happens to rust once it starts.

But this is FUN!!!

Last edited by kuehjo; 12-13-2012 at 01:18 PM.
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