YFZsandrider

I have 1300 miles on my 22re that was copmpletely rebuilt by very reputable machine shop.

I am checking the valve clearance and head bolt torque. Torque spec is listed at 58 ft/lb. I am re-torgueing the head bolts in sequence, and they are all at spec, except the last bolt on the intake side, and the first bolt on the intake side. Thay seemed to turn and not feel very close to the same tighness as the rest. I got about 1/8 of a turn out of each, and I got really scared... didn't want to strip them!!!

Is it possible to strip the hole, or snap the bolt?

JonnyBoy

It's possible, yes. Did they use brand new head bolts, like they're s'posed to?

YFZsandrider

No they didn't. This is my first whole motor rebuild, and I didn't think anything of it at the time... should I change them out? Can they be pulled out one at a time and replaced?

Fill me in please

abecedarian

I wouldn't worry much about them if you're torquing them properly. If they do break, you should be able to remove the end and install a new one without much issue.

TOYOTA 1

the 22re doesn't require new head bolts correct?

Teuf

If it breaks , how do you get it out short of taking head off.

abecedarian

Left hand drill bit should take it out since the bolt shouldn't be under any tension to prevent it from moving.

YFZsandrider

I think I got it mostly figured out. for some reason, my 1/2" Snap-on torque wrench was not clicking for those 2 bolts, so I tried my smaller 3/8" Craftsman wrench, and it read them as torqued.

a couple questions then-

Is it possible to strip the head bolt hole in the block, or will the bolt break before that can happen

Also, if the bolts breaks in half and it has to be pulled out, can that be accomplished without removing the head?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

No, you can strip them out. Yes if you do you can manage that too. But if you are sure of the torque wrench and sure of yourself then relax. 60 ft/lbs instead of 58ft/lbs is not going to cause problems. I'm dyslexic and read it as 85ft/lbs plus whatever the torque wrench is off. I'm pretty sure I stripped one on my old engine. I ran it till I got a bad rod knock.

FYI: I now compensate for the dyslexia buy having someone none dyslexic verify. I do the with every and all injectible medication I give, just for piece of mind of others that know what my real job is.

abecedarian

I never use 'click' type torque wrenches for things like this. I always use beam deflection types. They are more consistant and don't add torque to the bolt every time they click, since they don't click... but they are subject to error attributed to perspective and the person doing the readings... and never require recalibration, unlike 'click' type torque wrenches- but you'll never read that in the manual.

Teuf

I Have used both, i would think the clicker type is more precise. And if they are off, it can't be by so much as to mess an installation.

flyingbrass

Here's a post by Engnbdlr saying to use 64 ft/lbs. when using 10.9 grade bolts and the newer metal lined head gaskets: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showth...087&page=&vc=1

abecedarian

Click type torque wrenches are more precise but should never be used as ratchets. That will affect the calibration of the wrench. Additionally, you should never click one more than once- clicking twice or more will add torque to the bolt. Click and stop.
Also, if you're using extensions, you have to compensate for the natural spring effect in an extension.

Teuf

You mean i have to get rid of my 6' extension Dang.