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I just finished replacing the knock sensor. Once buttoned up, I refilled the coolant and coolant comes rushing down on the DS, mostly pouring down that side of the bellhousing, seemingly coming from the ds firewall.
I searched on here, yielding some ideas. I again pulled off the plenum and replaced both the U and J hose. I also checked the torque on the rear sensor/water bridge thing, and it is all good. I was sure to replace both water passage gaskets at the tensioner and rear sensor stack. Also, there is zero coolant in the valley of the motor.
When i pour coolant into the rad, water comes falling out. What did I miss/do I check? I even have a parts 4runner with the plenum off. I cannot seem to find an area to even check. Please help.
Any luck yet? Only so many things it could possibly be. Gotta be a leaky/loose hose or a cracked pipe/fitting somewhere. Or maybe a freeze plug I guess.
Any luck yet? Only so many things it could possibly be. Gotta be a leaky/loose hose or a cracked pipe/fitting somewhere. Or maybe a freeze plug I guess.
Thanks for the diagram Mudhippy. No love. I had to leave it all until next weekend. The plenum is off and I will look at it with fresh eyes then. I think the knock sensor work clouded my focus. More then.
Now, in the course of pulling the idler pulley, I managed to throw off timing Since I have no history as to when it was last changed and the timing cover gasket is hard as a rock, I figure it's time for a front motor service/timing belt/wp service. I am sure I'll be back for help. Thanks Yotatech.
Oh...you're in for a real treat. That's supposed to be sarcastic. But not so much though because I'm about to reveal the secret. Which is the best piece of advice nobody ever gave me. And it goes a little something like this...
Follow the instructions to a T. Don't try and outsmart the manual. Do exactly what it says no matter how dumb it sounds. In particular, the part about the camshaft pulley match pins. Yes, you do want(more like need if you know what's good for you) to remove the pulleys and the match pins. I know. Sounds like a lot more work than is necessary. Trust me, doing so makes the job 10x easier in the long run. Why? Because the key to the whole process is installing the camshaft pulleys without the match pins, and only finger tightening the bolts. And by finger tight I actually mean finger tight, then backed off a tiny bit. The camshaft pulleys need to be able to spin freely during the belt alignment/installation process. Then when the belt is there on where it should be, and you've done the double crank spin verification, that's when you remove the bolts and make the pulleys line up to install the match pins.
Can it be done without removing the camshaft pulleys? Yes. I did it that way at least half a dozen times before I finally figured out IT WAS THE WRONG WAY. I had done nothing but made the whole job ridiculously more difficult than it needed to be. I thought I was smarter than the book you see. NOT!
BTW, 3 words. Drop dead sexy. And I'm not even a 4Runner guy. Hard not to be when I see one looking that good though.
Oh...you're in for a real treat. That's supposed to be sarcastic. But not so much though because I'm about to reveal the secret. Which is the best piece of advice nobody ever gave me. And it goes a little something like this...
Follow the instructions to a T. Don't try and outsmart the manual. Do exactly what it says no matter how dumb it sounds. In particular, the part about the camshaft pulley match pins. Yes, you do want(more like need if you know what's good for you) to remove the pulleys and the match pins. I know. Sounds like a lot more work than is necessary. Trust me, doing so makes the job 10x easier in the long run. Why? Because the key to the whole process is installing the camshaft pulleys without the match pins, and only finger tightening the bolts. And by finger tight I actually mean finger tight, then backed off a tiny bit. The camshaft pulleys need to be able to spin freely during the belt alignment/installation process. Then went the belt is there on where it should be, and you've done the double crank spin verification, that's when you remove the bolts and make the pulleys line up to install the match pins.
Can it be done without removing the camshaft pulleys? Yes. I did it that way at least half a dozen times before I finally figured out IT WAS THE WRONG WAY. I had done nothing but made the whole job ridiculously more difficult than it needed to be. I thought I was smarter than the book you see. NOT!
BTW, 3 words. Drop dead sexy. And I'm not even a 4Runner guy. Hard not to be when I see one looking that good though.
Thanks for the tips and compliment, Mudhippy.
Hah, I have already been researching "shortcuts". I will make all attempts to avoid the temptation to cheat.
Will my 93 manual adequately cover this for my early 3VZE?
Nope. The 93 FSM don't have enough of the crucial steps. This is one of the rare cases where you'll actually want to invest in the $20 Chilton. Because the online 88 V6 FSM is nowhere to be found. Actually you don't even have to buy it. I uploaded pics of the pages with the install instructions. But they're buried deep in the YT archives by now. It might take me days to find them again. I'll see if I can though.
Nope. The 93 FSM don't have enough of the crucial steps. This is one of the rare cases where you'll actually want to invest in the $20 Chilton. Because the online 88 V6 FSM is nowhere to be found. Actually you don't even have to buy it. I uploaded pics of the pages with the install instructions. But they're buried deep in the YT archives by now. It might take me days to find them again. I'll see if I can though.
It's worth having for more than that reason. It's got the 88 only DTCs(Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and some other stuff that only applies to 88. If you've got a library card they might have one you can check out. My local public library has every one but the ones I go there looking for...of course.
Great advice Mudhippy! Relaxing the cam sprockets made slipping on the belt, drama free. I was only a lost ps pulley woodruff key from
starting her up.
Between the knock sensor, tb/wp, and speedo cable, I am ready to just cruise.
Next up, ac system overhaul and stereo installation.
04-24-2016, 01:45 PM
Now, in the course of pulling the idler pulley, I managed to throw off timing
Since I have no history as to when it was last changed and the timing cover gasket is hard as a rock, I figure it's time for a front motor service/timing belt/wp service. I am sure I'll be back for help. Thanks Yotatech.
NOT!
