Pics of my HG replacement...sloooow going
#1
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Thread Starter
Pics of my HG replacement...sloooow going
Well here's what she looked like before I tore into her...
Now with the intake plenum, timing cover, radiator, fan, and fan shroud removed:
Now missing the fuel rails:
Power Steering pump removal...
Now with the lower intake, ditributor, alternator, and timing belt pulled...along with a pathetic attempt to pull the cam gear bolts....
Here's what the lower intake looked like! Can you say DIRTY DIRTY?
Now after some engine cleaner, a brass brush, garden hose, and some elbow grease:
Cam gear 2, bolts to hold it still 0:
5/16" bolts being bent like pretzels -
Now some 3/8" carriage bolts being bent like pretzels:
Now with the intake plenum, timing cover, radiator, fan, and fan shroud removed:
Now missing the fuel rails:
Power Steering pump removal...
Now with the lower intake, ditributor, alternator, and timing belt pulled...along with a pathetic attempt to pull the cam gear bolts....
Here's what the lower intake looked like! Can you say DIRTY DIRTY?
Now after some engine cleaner, a brass brush, garden hose, and some elbow grease:
Cam gear 2, bolts to hold it still 0:
5/16" bolts being bent like pretzels -
Now some 3/8" carriage bolts being bent like pretzels:
#4
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Location: Cloverdale, B.C., Canada
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Bumping yota!! Nice job man, And remember, slow and steady wins the race. And always take a couple minutes to sit back and think logically about whats going on. Beer or smoke breaks is really what does the work for ya!! not
Keep her going man!!
Cheers, Lee
p.s. that horse is AWESOME!!
Keep her going man!!
Cheers, Lee
p.s. that horse is AWESOME!!
#5
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Thread Starter
I forgot to mention WHAT im going to be doing while in there....
NWOR headers
Oversides valves both exhaust and intake (enginebuilder)
Grade 10.5 enginebuilder headbolts
Either steel slipperplate HG or a copper HG pending hashing this all out
Mild Port and Polish by enginebuilder
Head rebuild by enginebuilder's son
Weasy2k cams
the various gaskets
new AC compressor
new evaporator
new radiator
new radiator hoses
powersteering pump rebuild
possibly a gear box rebuild
new ball joints
new idler arm
new pitman arm
After all of this, the 3vze should equal if not beat a 5vzfe in terms of output...
This is all provided the block isnt cracked or something...
Then lastly a 50N service recall, oh believe me the alignment will need to be done!!! muahahahahaha!!
NWOR headers
Oversides valves both exhaust and intake (enginebuilder)
Grade 10.5 enginebuilder headbolts
Either steel slipperplate HG or a copper HG pending hashing this all out
Mild Port and Polish by enginebuilder
Head rebuild by enginebuilder's son
Weasy2k cams
the various gaskets
new AC compressor
new evaporator
new radiator
new radiator hoses
powersteering pump rebuild
possibly a gear box rebuild
new ball joints
new idler arm
new pitman arm
After all of this, the 3vze should equal if not beat a 5vzfe in terms of output...
This is all provided the block isnt cracked or something...
Then lastly a 50N service recall, oh believe me the alignment will need to be done!!! muahahahahaha!!
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 01-07-2007 at 07:09 AM.
#6
Take it slow bumpin....if not then you will suffer the headaches I had! Kinda reminds me of my camshaft sprocket tool...It did have 2 bolts on it but they didn't bend but the steel bar did!
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#8
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
how did you get the damn cam bolts out? They arent reverse threaded are they? I wish I had my impact wrench...
#10
Registered User
i used my cheepy impact, they came right off.
and instead of the worlds cheepest and softest carige bolts, use some grade 5 or grade 8 hardware. those WONT bend
dont forget to have your injectors cleanded/rebuilt. I was surprised how bad mine were.
and instead of the worlds cheepest and softest carige bolts, use some grade 5 or grade 8 hardware. those WONT bend
dont forget to have your injectors cleanded/rebuilt. I was surprised how bad mine were.
Last edited by snap-on; 06-20-2006 at 06:48 PM.
#12
I loosened up my camshaft bolts before I took the timing belt off, just left the rig in 4th gear with the ebrake on, and that did it just fine.
Another thing I found that helped me real well, was a few a 3M Scotch Brite Roloc Discs, and the adapter to use them with your drill... This made cleaning the block surface, and any other gasket surface a real pleasure and after your done almost looks like you may have had them machined flat
Another thing I found that helped me real well, was a few a 3M Scotch Brite Roloc Discs, and the adapter to use them with your drill... This made cleaning the block surface, and any other gasket surface a real pleasure and after your done almost looks like you may have had them machined flat
Last edited by Chuki; 06-20-2006 at 06:49 PM.
#13
Registered User
Originally Posted by Chuki
I loosened up my camshaft bolts before I took the timing belt off, just left the rig in 4th gear with the ebrake on, and that did it just fine.
#14
Originally Posted by snap-on
ya that doesnt work so well if you have an auto.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Cebby, thank you!
Chuki - are those the super abrasive discs that are about 4" in diameter and about 2" wide? Or are they the somewhat more pliable ones that have a real scotch brite pad on them about 1/2" thick?
Also when Im cleaning off the block, how do I keep debris from entering the water passages?
Snap On - 1/2" grade 5 should do the trick right? I also had my injectors rebuilt by cruzin performance not too long ago...40k i think?
Chuki - are those the super abrasive discs that are about 4" in diameter and about 2" wide? Or are they the somewhat more pliable ones that have a real scotch brite pad on them about 1/2" thick?
Also when Im cleaning off the block, how do I keep debris from entering the water passages?
Snap On - 1/2" grade 5 should do the trick right? I also had my injectors rebuilt by cruzin performance not too long ago...40k i think?
#16
I have never taken off the cam sprockets but I did just do the timing belt on mine and I used the starter trick to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and it worked like a charm. Just set the breaker bar under the passenger side frame rail and BLIP, right off. Hope this helps and nice work!
#17
Registered User
There's a pic of the roloc discs in my grinder review here:
http://toolandfab.com/forum/showthre...ighlight=roloc
The Rolocs are available in 2",3" and 4". They work really well.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...2&postcount=21
http://toolandfab.com/forum/showthre...ighlight=roloc
The Rolocs are available in 2",3" and 4". They work really well.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...2&postcount=21
#18
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Thread Starter
So help me God im going to blow this f***ing piece of ˟˟˟˟˟ up!! I have soaked every exhuast bolt for the last 3 weeks in pb blaster and the gd nut on the drivers side crossover pipe decides it wants to round itself out when I was using a 6 POINT 14MM socket that was fully seated?!?!?
short of saying f-this and cutting the crossover in half, what the hell do I do now?!?
short of saying f-this and cutting the crossover in half, what the hell do I do now?!?
#19
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
So help me God im going to blow this f***ing piece of ˟˟˟˟˟ up!! I have soaked every exhuast bolt for the last 3 weeks in pb blaster and the gd nut on the drivers side crossover pipe decides it wants to round itself out when I was using a 6 POINT 14MM socket that was fully seated?!?!?
short of saying f-this and cutting the crossover in half, what the hell do I do now?!?
short of saying f-this and cutting the crossover in half, what the hell do I do now?!?
How are you going to adapt the ECU to work with all these mods/added power?
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
well im stuck, i either must cut the stud/bolt off of the drivers side exhaust manifold or cut the whole crossover. because of the location, it is impossible to fit a vice grip in to force the nut off....
The ECU should be fine id imagine....but time will tell....
The ECU should be fine id imagine....but time will tell....