Pass side IFS seal- again....
02-19-2010, 09:17 AM
#1
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Pass side IFS seal- again....
Replaced all the IFS seals on my 1990 4Runner 2 years ago, pass leaking again...have SKF/CR seals- better to go oem? Was told oem gives problems as well.
- Even though done 2 years ago, truck sits alot, aisin locking hubs- so most of the summer the shaft isn't turning to wear the seal out, use synthetic oil because of temps here.
- I understand this side goes quite often- how can I make it live longer?
- Even though done 2 years ago, truck sits alot, aisin locking hubs- so most of the summer the shaft isn't turning to wear the seal out, use synthetic oil because of temps here.
- I understand this side goes quite often- how can I make it live longer?
02-19-2010, 02:58 PM
#3
No better than any other, if you want my opinion.How to make it live longer? Good question, but not too likely to get any good answer(s) I suspect...
02-19-2010, 04:38 PM
#4
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A shop replaced mine initially so I didn't see the parts- like a harmonic balancer, does the seal wear a groove on the shaft? Maybe steping the seal out 1mm unto fresh metal...
02-19-2010, 05:48 PM
#5
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Mine doesn't have a groove. The problem seems to be that the seal is simply too loose a fit for the shaft. I'm wondering if you could sleeve it with a stainless sleeve to improve the fit.
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02-20-2010, 08:27 AM
#8
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I've got the manual hubs as well- you'd think...I just did a head job and bought some Loctite copper head gasket high temp dressing, the guy was telling me about another Loctite product used for sealing shafts- just thought of it now- have to read up on that.
02-20-2010, 03:29 PM
#11
I'm talking about the passenger side stub shaft seal, I hope that's mutual...
Anywho...my guess is that the stub shaft has, inherently, too much play for the seal to function properly in some cases.
That stub shaft is pretty lose fitting. If you've ever removed it to replace that seal then you'll notice it just slops around in that hole. Because it doesn't have a bearing just behind the seal like the shaft on the other side does. It's free to wobble around quite a bit, and can be push/pulled in & out of the diff around 1/2" without any resistance.
Anywho...my guess is that the stub shaft has, inherently, too much play for the seal to function properly in some cases.
That stub shaft is pretty lose fitting. If you've ever removed it to replace that seal then you'll notice it just slops around in that hole. Because it doesn't have a bearing just behind the seal like the shaft on the other side does. It's free to wobble around quite a bit, and can be push/pulled in & out of the diff around 1/2" without any resistance.
Last edited by MudHippy; 02-23-2010 at 03:46 PM.
02-20-2010, 06:07 PM
#12
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The seal never has a chance;( Talked to a mechanic I'll see on Monday- says Chevs are bad too, although my '89 k1500 hasn't given me much grief (in that dept).
02-23-2010, 08:20 AM
#15
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I'm talking about the passenger side stub shaft seal, I hope that's mutual...
Anywho...my guess is that the stub shaft has, inherently, too much play for the seal to function properly in some cases.
That stub shaft is pretty lose fitting. If you've ever removed it to replace that seal then you'll notice it just slops around in that hole. Because it doesn't have a bearing just behind the seal like the shaft other side does. It's free to wobble around quite a bit, and can be push/pulled in & out of the diff around 1/2" without any resistance.
Anywho...my guess is that the stub shaft has, inherently, too much play for the seal to function properly in some cases.
That stub shaft is pretty lose fitting. If you've ever removed it to replace that seal then you'll notice it just slops around in that hole. Because it doesn't have a bearing just behind the seal like the shaft other side does. It's free to wobble around quite a bit, and can be push/pulled in & out of the diff around 1/2" without any resistance.
FIX:
Junk yards are full of V6 Runners with ADD. ADD diffs have a roller bearing as the passenger side never unlocks. Its also a good time to regear for taller tires, just look for a 456 or 488 chunk; and get the rear while you are at it. Only cost me 100.00 in a pic-n-pull for both. The roller bearing cures the leak and noise.
Pull the front diff, and swap the ADD driver side tube with your manual tube. You will have to go to the dealer for the seal that is missing; but it easy to spot.. just look carefully and take the part with you.
And while you have the replacement diffs out; hit http://gearinstalls.com for refresh instructions. Zuk is da man!
Works for me.
02-23-2010, 03:47 PM
#16
02-23-2010, 04:00 PM
#17
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I'm a little unclear on what you 'think' I have...I have the ADD- I just put manual hubs on....... just because. I'll check on any bearings available tho.
02-24-2010, 02:34 PM
#18
So yeah, there might be a bad bearing causing the issue with yours.
Last edited by MudHippy; 02-24-2010 at 02:35 PM.
02-24-2010, 02:59 PM
#19
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So I should order a new bushing then? I too noticed a bit of play, like being able to push it in/out quite easily, and obviously leaking. I'm not getting new gears or anything like that, I have no need for it right now, as I already have 4.88's.
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