Duckie

Ok guys, first off I searched like crazy on both google and here just to make sure I'm not crazy. I'm fairly positive I'm doing this procedure correctly, but I'm not sure of my results.

My battery and alt test in great working order. So I assume I have a drain (mystery overnight dead battery headache, been leaving the negative cable off the terminal as to not drain this battery repeatedly). Have my multi meter set to 10A, black in COM, red in 10A. I clamp my red lead to the cable, and touch the black lead to the terminal.

Everything off, doors shut, no keys, as off as I can get the car, these are my results. The meter spikes upwards of 12.00-14.00A, then immediately starts dropping in the .XX values rapidly. Initially it drops for approximately ~8-10 seconds. If It starts at ~14.00, it gets to about 12.XX. Then suddenly, has a huge drop and goes to a steady 0.07-0.09A. It will stay here for ~8 seconds, then shoot back up usually to ~13.XXA. Then begins its rapid drop by the .XX values for ~3-6 seconds, then drops back to a steady 0.07-0.09A. Rinse and repeat.

For the sake of experimentation, I opened the passenger door, and the only change was replacing the 0.07-0.09A with a 0.17A. (If I remember correctly)

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Edit: This is an 86 4Runner 22re.

TNRabbit

Disconnect your alternator & see if you're getting these readings. A diode going bad can cause this.

Duckie

Will do. The alt is a new refurbished unit, but I've been suspect of it.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Once you've eliminated the alternator you will need to work thru each of the fused circuits.

The FSM covers how to locate a short, last page of this section, you can use the same method for finding the draw by replacing the lamp with the ammeter. Basicly you'll want to check each fuse with the ammeter untill you locate which circuit the draw is on, then work the short detection method of plugging things back in one at a time untill you find the issue.

Last time I had to go thru this is was a bunch of gunk in the cig' lighter socket but could be anything from a failing device to a burned/carbonised plug or moisture.

Duckie

I've already tested a bunch of fuses actually. All of the engine ones, and most of the driver's kick panel ones. When I pulled the 40amp in the engine, I got a full zero reading with no sparatic jumps if that means anything. (I didn't pull the 80amp now that I'm thinking about it.) Could this lean toward an Alt issue?

PS I didn't get to test with the alt unplugged today, had errands to run and ran out of light. I'm going to try and get to it tomorrow afternoon when I get off work.

854x4

Unhook negative battery cable and put meter in series one lead to cable and other to terminal. The spike when you first hook it up is normal but should drop after about 30 seconds. It should be under 50 milliamps rule of thumb. Do you have a alarm? When you pulled the 40 amp and got no reading its because you shut off power to most of the truck so the problem probably lies it that 40a circuit.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You've narrowed it down to the AM1 circuit. Which fuses did you check already, you should make a list for your own use so you don't keep checking things again

Done, Stop, Door CB, power CB, tail light relay and fuse, Rear heat relay and fuse, Heater relay and fuse & AC fuse.

In theory all the Heat and AC stuff should be switched w/ the ignition but you need to verify there isn't any leakage thru the relays or thier plugs.

It's not the HAZ/Horn, Headlight relay and L/R fuses, or EFI circuits. These are all direct from the battery or thru AM2.

Still might be worth checking the ignition switch, and the fuses down stream of it. Engine, Wiper,Defog,Cig and IGN.

PS. Alternator is on AM1 also.

Duckie

So the initial spike is normal, but should it keep re-spiking? Also, I do not have an alarm.

I'll re-test all of the kick panel ones and keep track of which ones I did test. Also, I unplugged the alt (Both the screw on top and the actual plug in the back) and it tested the same .08A draw. (80mA correct?)

Does anyone have a diagram on what is on the AM1 circuit? I lost my copy of the FSM I had on my computer, and it looks like TTORA doesn't have them anymore.

854x4

The initial spike is normal its just everything suddenly getting power but after a few seconds it should go away. The 50ma is just a rule of thumb most cars need to be under this to keep from draining the battery. 80ma seems high to me most causes are radio, ignition , defroster , power windows , locks.

Duckie

So I just went and tested all of the fuses in the drivers kick panel, the draw did not change.

Duckie

Also after checking all of the kick panel fuses, I pulled my drivers door panel and unplugged the interior light and window/lock switches, and I also pulled my stereo completely out and unplugged everything form it. (Its an aftermarket head unit installed by the PO, never had any issues with it.) It tested the same. I then pulled the shell off the rear heater and unplugged the switched to the rear window wiper and rear window switch, and had no change.

854x4

Are you still getting the re-spiking after pulling everything or is it just staying at 80ma?

Duckie

It is still re-spiking about every 10-15 seconds.

rustypigeon

Do you have power door locks and windows? If so, pull the 30 amp "power" fuse from the drivers side kick panel.

Duckie

Is that located in slots to the left of the 15A Rear Defogger?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The list of circuits on the AM1 FL is in my other reply.

Start with eliminating the EFI current. Hook the battery up pull the EFI fuse and connect your ammeter in place of the fuse. Granted this is on AM2 but since I can't see what you're doing from here. Subtract these numbers from what you see when you have the ammeter on the battery.

With the fuses, relays and circuit breakers pulled you still have a draw? Did you put the ammeter across those connectors? If you put the ammeter across the connector and get half of your current draw you've found a carbonized connector, you can try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner but if it's really carbonized(burnt) you'll have to replace it. If you get the full current then it's somewhere farther down the wiring, you'll have to do the short detection of disconnecting everything on the circuit and probing.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Upper right side of the kick panel fuse box, The heater relays are behind the center console.

Duckie

First I want to say thanks for all of the help so far. Electrical stuff is foreign for me. I got a wiring schematic, and it looked like a roadmap of chaos. (IE. I don't know how to read schematics) Hell, I had to call my dad to make sure I had the DMM set up right. The plus side is I can drive the truck as long as I unhook the battery when its off, so I'm going to take it up to my parents place on Friday to get some help from my dad. Hopefully, we can track down this issue quickly. I'd like to get the truck running 100% sooner than later.

Duckie

Solved it! The ignition lock cylinder was bad, and letting me pull my key out while the cylinder was still on ACC. Actually, it was letting the key out in every position. Got a new one put in, and all has been well.

Guardian_Saint

lol. goodness. u got it. I happen to have this problem as well. Battery would drain out but the key got stuck inside the ignition. I didn't buy the part. What I did was d/c and all good now.