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overheating and then some

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Old 09-27-2009, 04:04 PM
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Angry overheating and then some

Okay guys I need your help on my 4runner. I put a new motor in my 87 4runner last November. Did not do any posting here but did a LOT of reading for the build and I thank you all for everything you all have posted. Now I have an array of issues and need help.

The short rundown. When I did the rebuild I did most everything. I had the crank and rods rebalanced, new clutch, new cylinders, had the head ground and straightened and put a new DOA cam in it along with new valves and springs, had valves set at local Toyota, new water pump, new oil pump, new thermostat, new hoses, new radiator, new go fast paint, new... etc...

The issues:

1 – Overheating. I now have about 8,000 miles on the motor and it is overheating. What it does is when you start and drive it the temp will climb up to just over 200 under 220, stay there for a second, then fall and be fine for the rest of the drive. (I should note there is the factory temp gauge and an auto meter one tied in a heater hose) The temp would ONLY climb on the after market gauge so I was not too concerned. Then the other day on the way home the factory gauge started to climb a a block away from my house. Got in the garage, opened the hood and steam was coming out of the overflow and I can hear the water boiling. After doing some research here I though it might be the Mass Air Meter but it seems to test okay (about 1.58 ohms at 88 degree outside temp, all the others in spec as well) I did put a new thermostat in it but the when I put a heat gun on the old and new one they both open at the same time (not exactly the best test but something) The fan clutch seems to be good and tight. So I am now at a loss.
-I should note also that there was a time when it seemed to have power loss and I put a new O2 sensor in it and problem solved, and that this problem happens at both high and low speeds.

2 – I now have milky oil. I know this means one of a couple things. A blown head gasket (i am hoping for), a cracked head or a cracked block. I am going to dig into it on Wednesday after work. If the head is cracked I will wait a while and get an engine builder RV one or something. If it is the block I will probably go sink the truck in a lake and forget it.

It appears that the number 2 cylinder is the one that has the problem but i included a picture of the plugs as well.

If you guys could help me as to what the problem could be I would very much appreciate your help as I am so financially tanked in this truck that I do not want it to go sit for another 3 years like it did last time i broke it. I will try to post some pics of it just cause.

I will reply with any asked information at quickly as possible (i.e. after work) and I am going to do the tear down and testing on Wed night and Thurs.

Thanks,
Jeremie
Attached Thumbnails overheating and then some-jy22-053.jpg   overheating and then some-jy22-054.jpg   overheating and then some-0927091902-00.jpg  
Old 09-27-2009, 04:17 PM
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The pictures of the motor are before I dropped it in, the spark plugs are from today
Old 09-27-2009, 04:22 PM
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You didnt say if the timing chain cover was new , if the tcc is worn you can get water in oil if not tcc its a blown head gasket imo i doubt you cracked any thing good luck
Old 09-27-2009, 04:24 PM
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1st of all , nice header.

timing chain condition??? i believe mine busted through causing my MAJOR probs (see my thread link below)

i'm no mechanic, BUT, i thought headgaskets don't just randomly fail but fail as a result of overheating. i know alot of 22re's have had headgasket issues but i (my opinion) think this is a weak spot that finally says "UNCLE" secondary to overheating.

2nd of all, engine was rebuilt you say. well actually you say "new" but i assume it's a rebuilt....reason for rebuild in 1st place (this engine)...did it fail and if so is the head warped or block damaged?

my 2 cents, again i'm a newbie but i've lurked around alot on these threads too.

keep posted.
Old 09-27-2009, 04:32 PM
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Yes, you are correct about it being a re-build. The timing chain is new but the cover was reused, appeared to be in good shape.
About the rebuild, it was done after MUCH abuse. I got the truck at 16, put super swamper LTB's (that i still have) and went till it would go no more.
The head was warped but it was straightened and milled back into speck by a local shop. I can look down in the 2nd cylinder and see brown and crap in there so I assume when I pull the head my problem will be there.
I am also fairly sure the gasket let go due to overheating, I am hoping to find out why it overheated to prevent it from happening again once I get it all back together.

Thanks
Jeremie
Old 09-27-2009, 04:48 PM
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yes you have to deal with the result AND the cause.

wonder if you had damaged the block originally rather than just the head.

1 year and 8,ooo miles later definitely NOT nearly close to acceptable UNLESS you did not address the original reason for the overheating.
Old 09-27-2009, 04:57 PM
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It is that lovely cause that I am trying to track, the result is a pretty easy trail to follow. When I did the rebuild I went through the lower end as well, block was punched .10 over as well the crank and rods. Everything that went back into the motor was set up to handle the machine work.

Thanks again
Old 09-27-2009, 08:14 PM
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If anyone has any idea what would cause the temp to climb up to 200-210 right after start up and then fall back into range for several weeks and then one day it overheats all the way I would appreciate your input.

Thanks
Old 09-27-2009, 08:23 PM
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iv heard of a bypass thermostat that has two openings for water to go through , it has somthing to do with your heater . Good luck
Old 09-27-2009, 09:23 PM
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wow this sounds all to m,uch like my truck!! heres the question did you use a head gasket from the part store or did you use one from toyota as the toyota one is the only one you can use i found this out the hard way the part store gaskets fail at around 8-20k miles as mine went at about 24k after rebuild but i also dove it to cali and back though as well
Old 09-28-2009, 03:36 PM
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So I have a working theory, would like to hear anyones input. I think the gasket may have been sub-par. Had a good one but messed it up and in my impatience ran and got the one in stock to get the truck back together. I think the gasket may have sprung a small leak, not enough to smoke or notice too much, that burned off some coolant and caused a bubble in the system. That bubble led to the gauge shooting up until the block got hot enough to open the thermostat. All that heat led to my head gasket finally letting go all the way.

Any other input in appreciated, anything else I should check before I get this thing back together?

Cross your fingers for me that the head can be saved!
Old 09-28-2009, 04:16 PM
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my 2 cents again....you had your head machined, you said it was really warped.....in other threads i read about people using "head shims" to make up the difference (i guess)...also (and i'm nowhere near this far and i am NO mechanic) i believe there are little nubs??as studs or something like that? if your head is machined and the nubs can't go in any further (deeper) you could torque all you want and never get that head close enough....

my theory......your head was shaved down to make it flat but maybe should have had a shim to make up the difference and the gasket did what it could / while it could and being a weak point, it failed. makes sense to me but i'd let more experienced wrenchers weigh in on that one.

i'll be watching...
Old 10-01-2009, 12:33 PM
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So just a quick update. Took the head to the machine shop, warped 5 mil. Already been straightened once, ground 10. They can grind it again but I will have to use a spacer. So now I am debating
1. A new casting with my valves, springs (new 8k miles ago) and my DOA cam (also new 8k miles ago) for 350ish
2. A new casting with valves and everything from engine builder for 400 is from engine builder
3. The updated head with bigger valves from engine builder for over 500. (with gaskets and all.) and use my DOA cam.

I also stopped by a Toyota shop that is real good in the area and told them about the problem. We looked at the head and found where water had made its way into the cylinder. So we think it formed an air bubble in the system, also pressurizing the system, leading to the overheating without registering on the gauge.

Lesson - ALWAYS re tighten head bolts after 500 to 1000 miles less you face the consequences. Also use the BEST head gasket money can buy.

Will update later when I can afford to fix the car. Until then the poor car will be stuck in the garage.
Old 10-01-2009, 12:46 PM
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I'm with ya and feel your pain$.
Old 10-01-2009, 03:00 PM
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there was no warranty on the head gasket or the machining of the head ?
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