4x4DemonWithin

First off would like to say hi to everyone. this is my first post on these forums check out my youtube channel and thanks for all your guys help already just reading up on stuff randomly in the forums. now i have a problem of my own and need help! thanks in advance!

k so i have a 22re in a 884runner its bored .4 or .04 over witch ever one makes sense i dont know much as far as that department. it also has a mild RV cam in it, again i dont know much and am unsure exactly what mild RV means, but i do understand what a cam is and what being bored out means.

and everything else bone stock engine wise repaired or replaced but not upgraded minus a KnN air filter<----not a cold air intake just the filter, still stock air box.

the problem is<---well a problem for me as i have a lead foot and love to rally,thrash,jump and crawl my yota. it runs way to hot for my comfort it doesnt actually over heat except when i am pushin it, but just normal driving to mild off roading it runs way to hot. I just had the heat sensor replaced as it was sticky and slightly off<---telling me it was hotter than it really was and staying there.

what i mean by way to hot is 4/5 the way up in between the white lines to 7/8 is my normal running range witch is always right below the top white line. my brother and my dad both have 4runners 88 and 86 both 22re completely stock and never go above 1/5.

and everything is in perfect working condition<--- thermostat, brand new radiator, clutch fan. radiator cap the works so its not an actual part not working its just the combo not being enough to keep it as cool as i would like.

also make sense its completely stock cooling with engine mods<--cam/bore!
so i need to upgrade my cooling!

so my radiator is brand new but its only a 2 core if i would of known better i would of at the time got the biggest i could fit in there but i didnt know much back then so getting a bigger radiator is kinda out unless the shop i got it from will swap me out for a bigger one for real cheap!

and thats my problem i dont have much money to dump into this truck anymore!

and i am currently hunting down a really cheap electric fan or set of fans to run in front of my radiator and possibly a dual stage t-stat. or just rig a normal t-stat and drill a small hole in it to allow a constant small flow.

so my main hunt for knowledge is the clutch fan! currently it seems my engine isnt producing enough heat to the front of the clutch fan for it to actually activate. so it wont kick on when im on the trail and i dont think it kicks on at all so far unless im already overheated and actually moving pretty fast constantly witch is the big problem for me. i need it to keep my engine from getting that hot not to cool my engine off after the fact,

so what is the degrees of a normal clutch fan engagement point? me and my mechanic busted out a blowtorch and a thermometer and found its around 200 degrees but i dont know if that test is the best way but its at least a ball park estimate.

so im looking for a clutch fan that kicks on at a low temp but i dont know what temp to shoot for? I dont want a clutch fan that is always on ive heard it just sucks the life/power out of the engine. also a thermostat that would complement the clutch fan. as of right now i beleive i have a t-stat that opens at a lower degrees than stock like i think stock is at 190 i think i have a 160 but im not completely sure on that.<----witch might be my problem right there but simply putting in a stock t-stat isnt going to fix my problem as it will just mean i would have to run hotter to get my clutch fan to engage any ways. i need to keep my engine as cool as possible while its cool not already hot!


so im looking for a clutch fan/thermostat combo that will keep my engine cool from a cold start stay as cool as possible from the get go not after i get heated up. so I so far have found this one Engages At About 170 Degrees http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/to...554122973.html
that is the lowest ive found also was thinking about one that when not engaged spins still at a high rate<--dont know if they make those? and then when it does engage it is at a lower temp than stock.

as of the thermostat should i go stock degrees with a small hole drilled in the side or go with a lower temp with a drilled hole. or a high flow t-stat at either stock or lower.

can i get an explanation of what would be the outcome of above combination of t-stats and clutch fans.

and would simply having a electric fan pushing air though my radiator push enough heat to my clutch fan. i need a good combo of all these thing to run as cool as possible for as long as possible.

as of right now the only other problem im having is my engine seems to be running real rich due to a bad/old o2 sensor and dirty injectors but as far as my knowledge that wouldnt cause a overheating problem. but who knows......

thanks again for all the help.

yotarover

wish i could help.. mine over heated alot then i replaced all the hoses (even the one running from the water pump) and that solved it then i had a leak so i made the mistake of using alumaseal <<< F that stuff and any stopleak bs! blew the HG lucky for me it didn't warp my head. but a buddy of mine has a droped and slammed 85 2wd with a cry02 system spraying his rad never seems to over heat. once it reaches a bit close to hot it sprays it and keeps it in check. cost him 400 for the parts and all and 20 to have the tank filled

crafthorse

Larger Radiator, new fan clutch, or Tarus Fan off ebay for cheap. I tend to lean toward fan clutch if you are getting overheating with the other items you listed as being new. Best option is to get the tarus fan, I hear nothing but good stuff from people who have added a fan from a tarus.

yotaman90

As far as I can tell a good radiator mod for 22R-E vehicles is to swap in the radiator off of a truck with the 3VZ-E, you could try that. Also x2 on the fan clutch. The temperature gauge on my '87 used to creep up steadily when I was stuck in traffic in hot weather, I replaced it with an OEM replacement clutch from NAPA and haven't had a problem since

4x4DemonWithin

@yotarover or who ever rely why would changing hoses make a diff in heat. were they actually bad and needed to be changed or were they good u just changed em out for brand new ones?

i dont have a drop of antifreeze leaking anywhere and the hoses are newish<---still good! so the only thing i can think of is the rubber is made differently in the hoses u put in and it kept the coolant colder......sounds right but would that rely stop me from heating up so much?

yes it will help but dont think its my main thing im looking at allthough if it does make that much of a diff ill run better/cooler hoses in combo of everything else im lookin at!

4x4DemonWithin

k so my main question still is what does a OEM clutch fan engage @ in degrees? and is the link i posted a clutch fan that engages @ a lower than stock degrees? if so how or what combination of thermostat should i pair it with?

crafthorse

Replace the fan clutch with an OEM clutch or one from Napa, I got one fro autozone and it works fine. I replaced my thermo with a 180. when I run without AC my guage stays well below a 1/4, and with ac on it runs about just below 1/2. In traffic with ac it stays right at 1/2.

4x4DemonWithin

k i know my OP was a wall of text but i did say the clutch fan is OEM and it DOES work. it just wont kick on when im crawling up a mountain road in 4 Low @ 4k rpms witch is my problem. i am looking for what temp a OEM clutch fan kicks on at so i can buy one that kicks on lower.

also if i install a electic fan to push the air directly to the clutch fan will that put more hot or cold air in front of the clutch fan? if im crawling it should push the hot air dirictly to it so it will kick on right?

4x4DemonWithin

is a OEM toyota 4runner 1988 fan clutch a viscous fan clutch or just a regular one?

if not can some one link a viscous fan clutch for a 1988 toyota 4runner 2.4l?
ive been searching but cant find one for sale at local shops or the internet!

*update* k so it looks like stock OEM isnt a viscous one but a Viscous for a V6 looks like it would fit plz let me know if it would?

stock OEM specs:

HAYDEN FAN CLUTCH -- Standard-Duty Thermal Design, Standard Rotation, 5.85 in. Overall Diameter, 0.63 in. Pilot Diameter, 1.96 in. Fan Mount Height, 4.80 in. Fan Bolt Circle, M6x1.0 Hole4 Bolt/Nut Threads

V6 viscous one i want!

HAYDEN FAN CLUTCH -- Standard-duty thermal design, standard rotation 6.65 in. overall diameter, 0.63 in. pilot diameter, 2.44 in. fan mount height, 5.35 in. fan bolt circle, M6 x 1.0 hole 4 bolt and nut threads,Turns fan 60-70 percent of shaft when engaged and 20-30 percent when disengaged

that last part on the V6 makes it a viscous clutch fan.

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1725+11779+2740+1223

4x4DemonWithin

*bump*

abecedarian

Stock fan clutch is viscous. So that's that. With the engine off, take a hand and try to spin the fan. If it spins easily, won't spin, or spins more than 1/4-1/2 turn before coming to a stop, the clutch should be replaced.

When it's 'running hot', does turning the heater influence anything?
Have you verified ignition timing is correct?

4x4DemonWithin

my clutch fan is working properly its just not kicking on as soon as i would like....
when i blast the heater yes my temp gauge will drop slightly and i dont know any thing about my ignition timing, but would that cause heat? i do some times randomly have trouble starting my engine nothing consistent at all though, and it will always eventually start!

any one run a fan that is bolted directly to the place a clutch fan should go? ie a clutch fan without the clutch. how much power is actually lost and about how much mpg is lost? i run a 22re. i dont care about the airplane noise just the performance loss but if it keeps my engien cool ill grab one!

and yes thank you i have figured out exactly what a viscous clutch fan is it is just the type of clutch fan that they all are. i thought viscous was some new tech stuff different than a clutch fan.....

4x4DemonWithin

i got a 22re in a 884runner! i am looking for your guys rigs set up on keeping the engine cool.

i am completely stock cooling right now minus a K n N air filter!

what i am planning:

1. stock thermostat @ 180 degrees with a small hole drilled in it, to allow constant coolant flow.

2. electric fan or fans.

3. clutch fan with out the clutch.

4. bigger radiator. i need some help on this one! what can/will fit in?
i am looking for the biggest radiator with the least amount of fab work. i currently have a two core rad will a 3 core make that much of a difference? i can pick one up for 100 bucks and itll bolt right in! or should i go for a monster and try to fit it in!

5. cold air intake in the form of a snorkel

thats it unless i am still running to hot on the trails! then ill go for oil cooler.

do you guys run a stock clutch fan and have no problems with it? or do u run a clutch fan with an electric fan and are good on the trails?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

3 row radiator (bolts right in w/o modification) with OEM fan clutch works fine for me, stock temp. t-stat as well:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4Runner.shtml#Engine

algranger

I used to run an oem clutch fan but as soon as you dip it in the water it fries it up. I switched to an e-fan. Frees up the motor and keeps you cooler.

I wouldnt drill a hole in your stat, if it works as it should it will be sufficient as it is. Just make sure to get the "SuperStat" if it fails, it sticks open, not closed.

I second the 3 core radiator idea. Does wonders from what i hear.

I think the e-fan will solve your problem if not, its the radiator.

camo31_10.50

e-fan will do wonders..and you'll gain that LITTLE SMALL AMOUNT of horsepower..lmao

of course that little bit was enough to let me cruise up hills at 70 no problem in 5th gear...now it slows down to between 60-65..lol..(i have the clutch fan on there right now)

3core radiator

i've heard K&N filters are crap..i use fram..(i know i know.. )..but hey it works..and i know its filtering good..lol..

i change it like every 3months or so..it gets clogged up REAL fast..

4x4DemonWithin

so u run nothing but an electric fan? no clutch fan? where is your e fan at? is it infront of the rad or where the clutch fan should be?

and what about a non clutch fan.

4x4DemonWithin

hey 4crawler i have a bit bigger bore than u and i am really hard on my engine...i race the rpms alot! i love drifting! is there any thing im missing/overlooking in my list?

the shop that did the rebuild on the block said it was bored .04 over stock and i shouldnt have heat problems....well i do! @ .06 over said it would be pushing it and anything over that would deffinatley have problems. and since all my cooling componants are in good shape the heat has to be coming from my block heating up from the smaller space inbetween my pistons right?

so a bigger rad with a stock clutch fan/t stat and an electric fan in front of the rad should be good right? thnx for the help so far guys!

Toadyota

I got a bolt in three row rad., 190 thermostat, clutch fan and snorkel and it stays cool!!! Just drove through, up, over, down and around Death Valley for a week at 117 degrees in the shade! No problems.

camo31_10.50

or you could mount the fan where its supposed to go...not on front of the radiator..but on the back..like the engine side of the radiator??

i dont think boring your motor .040 over is gonna hurt the cooling???..as far as i know..the water passages stay the same size??