dntsdad

I have a 92 excab. Had a 3.0 but has been swapped to a 3.4

The stock 3.4 compressor stayed on the motor and I simply swapped the top plate of the 3.0 compressor over to the 3.4 compressor.

I need to charge to AC system and get that going because its getting HOT here. I want to do it right and I know that changing the Orings to ones rated for 134 is the correct way to avoid future leaks. I also plan to replace the dryer.

Anyone done this? Know of a diagram that shows all the rings in the system so I do not miss any? How many of X size and how many of Y size?

I honestly know nothing about AC so everything is a learning curve presently.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

NEW orings are way more important than ones specifically for R134a. everything available for the last 20 years are compatible with it. If the compressor has been open you need to flush it and add the FSM volume of oil to it and the new receiver/dryer. Wouldnt hurt (read that GOOD IDEA) to replace the metering device/orifice tube too. Any place there is a fitting there is an oring. pull a DEEP vacuum on the system before recharging it: the point isnt to get the air out but to create a vacuum at which the moisture (water) boils at room temp and can be removed. Its about NOT having moisture in it.
iamsuperbleeder has some links to FSM's on his member page that you can donwload or go to ncttora.com/fsm/index.html and find the one for your ride.

"there are 2 ways to do any A/C job: the right way and all the other ways"

dntsdad

Hey thanks for the reply.

I have another question. Are the condensers specific to the type of gas. In other words, should I change my condenser to a R134 compliant model. I was thinking the 95 trucks and Runner might be a good swap if so since I believe they had changed to R134 by then and SHOULD be the same as far as mounting is concerned.

I dont mind changing it if I need to but obviously I would rather not if performance in the system will not be affected.

From my research this morning, and over the past few months, it seems that a new drier(are these gas specific as well.......walk in a buy one for a 92 pickup(R12) or a 95 pickup(R134), expansion valve, Orings, and now the "orfice tube" (whatever that is) will need to be replaced. Already adding up, but I want to get it right the first time.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt spent the $ on a different condensor, airflow is more important here. I converted my 22RE truck to an electric fan because the stock engine driven didnt work well (R134a makes a bit more pressure, which increase with heat, than R12) in the mississippi heat. The Mercury Villager fan/shroud work great (with some mods) and give you 2 speeds.
any drier you buy now is dual compatible (all it is is a moisture absorbing media) for both refrigerants.
your system has either an orifice tube OR an expansion valve, i dont remember which. It is the metering device that increases pressure then allows rapid expansion for cooling.
Feell free to ask questions, i do A/C for a living anda dont mind helping!

dntsdad

Dude....you may be internet marrying me if you dont mind helping!!

I came across this document this morning and it states that there are only 4 Oring that need to be changed in the system. I am sure Toyota knows their stuff but this seems improbable. Of course I know NOTHING so maybe so.

Here it is

I want to start gathering parts and because my Toyota factory parts come from across the country (hate my local dealer) I want to get everything in one shot so less waiting.

Can you confirm or deny?

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

That's a GREAT TSB!!!!!! lots of good yota specific info. it sounds about right on orings. most places sell an assortment pack so you should be fine.
Old timer's trick on some of these haven't-been-off-since-forever fittings: take 2 hammers and hold one against the bottom of the fitting nut and tap the FLAT surface on top (hammer & anvil style) several times then spray with penetrant and WALK AWAY! when you go to take it off, do the hammer trick again and use tubing wrenches.

worshipmentor

iTrader: (3)

[quote=dntsdad;51726155]Dude....you may be internet marrying me if you dont mind helping!!

My wife already feels like a Yota-widow at times anyway so...............
I'm here to help!
(what was your address again so I know where to send the bill when we're done?????)

The MAN

lol you beat me to it! I was about to post that TSB

I converted both my old yotas to 134a a few years ago following that TSB and they both work great... Toyota's o'rings are compatible with 134a, they have no different o'rings or superseded ones in the catalog... whatever it shows in the toyota parts catalog works fine

as long as you replace the drier and install adapter fittings, you are usually fine... anything else specific will be stated in that TSB.. you will need to use PAG oil though.... the ND oils are expensive as hell, so if you're on a budget, just google what the viscosity of the ND oil and just get that particular PAG oil (which comes in various viscosities as I implied)... you cannot use the original mineral oil, it is not compatible with 134a and it'll fail to lubricate the compressor... all the oil will do will settle into the low parts of the system

as for the drier, the toyota ones are expensive and good quality, but any aftermarket will do... they should all be 134a compatible now and you'll have a hard time finding an R12 only one... drier replacement is a must, the original one will be full of mineral oil and probably the wrong desiccant.

no need to flush or replace the expansion valve unless you had problems


once you finish doing the conversion, you need to bring the rig to a shop and have them evacuate and charge the system... getting the necessary equipment to DIY is expensive... most shops might not want to touch it, but if you sound competent and tell them exactly what you did, the chances of them helping you are greater.... also remember that the PAG oil is hygroscopic unlike the mineral oil... so bring the rig in ASAP once you put all the stuff in and close up the system!