One Spark and then......Nothing
#1
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One Spark and then......Nothing
Hey Everyone,
Well I went out the garage, stuck the key in the 89 4Runner 3.0 and turned the key. Turned over tried to start and then just kept turning over. I turned the key once more, and the same thing.
Hopped out and pulled a plug wire to start checking the basics. Had my son turn the truck over, and I would get one spark (truck would sound like it was trying to start right when I got the spark) and then nothing. Motor just keep turning over, but no more sparky? Tried it again... same thing... One spark, then nothing.
Any had this one before?
Thanks!
Well I went out the garage, stuck the key in the 89 4Runner 3.0 and turned the key. Turned over tried to start and then just kept turning over. I turned the key once more, and the same thing.
Hopped out and pulled a plug wire to start checking the basics. Had my son turn the truck over, and I would get one spark (truck would sound like it was trying to start right when I got the spark) and then nothing. Motor just keep turning over, but no more sparky? Tried it again... same thing... One spark, then nothing.
Any had this one before?
Thanks!
#3
Registered User
Coil/Igniter my first thought, but also check for power going to the IGN fuse in the driver kick panel: that's the IG2 lead from your ignition switch. IG2 powers the coil/igniter, but doesn't go through that fuse - I think the fuse is on the path to the coil side of the EFI relay. IG2 powers the injectors, too, so if the ignition switch is bad, there are all kinds of reasons the truck won't start.
#5
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Thread Starter
Where is the EFI relay on this truck. There is only one relay under the hood labeled "HEAD". It just happened to be the same relay on the 98 Runner so I swapped them, but that did not solve the problem. I just put in a new ign coil this evening, and that did not solve the issue. I did another spark test with the same results. Just ONE spark and then nothing. I had my son turn the truck over for about 10 secs and the plugs get fire one time, then nothing after that. I just checked the primary & 2nd resistance, and they are within spec.. and its a brand new coil.. about 30 mins old. Im thinking of getting into the distributor and looking around.
NOTE: Yesterday... I was driving the truck and noticed that the idle seemed extremely low 4-500. This is a 'New to Me" truck and I had just changed the VSV for the EGR "Green One". I was actually headed out in the driveway to warm the truck up to check TPS and then Timing.... but got this no start problemo.
Thanks!
NOTE: Yesterday... I was driving the truck and noticed that the idle seemed extremely low 4-500. This is a 'New to Me" truck and I had just changed the VSV for the EGR "Green One". I was actually headed out in the driveway to warm the truck up to check TPS and then Timing.... but got this no start problemo.
Thanks!
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#9
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#11
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Thread Starter
Hey Guys... THANKS!!!
So.. did my tests and the ohms are way off on the first two. I tried with both analog and digital meter just to be sure. So.. no problem, I have changed a pickup coil before.
Does anybody know the part number? I called both Autozone and OReilly and niether show a pick coil or signal generator in the books?
Thanks!
Getting Closer!!
So.. did my tests and the ohms are way off on the first two. I tried with both analog and digital meter just to be sure. So.. no problem, I have changed a pickup coil before.
Does anybody know the part number? I called both Autozone and OReilly and niether show a pick coil or signal generator in the books?
Thanks!
Getting Closer!!
#12
Registered User
So... it sounds like you were checking the distributor. Just wanted to make sure that you have access to a 91 or older fsm, because the distributor changed (in 92, I think) and the specs are a little different from the later years, and the connector is different.
To confirm that you have the right terminals, looking into the connector at the end of the distrib wire, and holding it so the part that connects to the wiring harness shield is at the bottom (and the little tab that clips to the other half of the connector is at the top), then starting in the top left corner and proceeding clockwise, the terminals are: G1, Ne, G-, G2.
Also, the 91 and earlier signal coil specs are a little different: all of them should be between 140-180 ohms. I think that must be the cold spec, but the 89 manual doesn't specify.
The air gap spec is a bit tighter, too: .2 -.4 mm or .008 -.016"
As to your question regarding replacing a signal coil: I am not aware of any source for just the signal coils or signal rotors for the V6 distributors: if they're bad, so far as I know you have to replace the distributor. If anyone knows of a source, that would be great to know.
Since even from 1sttoyotaparts the OEM Densos are over $400, and because used distribs from that year range are a very iffy proposition, I think the best options may be a remanufactured Denso or a new non-Denso. Two years ago I bought a distributor from Distributor King on ebay for under $200. It's not of Denso quality but it works perfectly and it comes with a lifetime warranty, for whatever that's worth. Apparently they are made in Canada, not China, so that's something.
But that's the distributor - have you checked the igniter?
To confirm that you have the right terminals, looking into the connector at the end of the distrib wire, and holding it so the part that connects to the wiring harness shield is at the bottom (and the little tab that clips to the other half of the connector is at the top), then starting in the top left corner and proceeding clockwise, the terminals are: G1, Ne, G-, G2.
Also, the 91 and earlier signal coil specs are a little different: all of them should be between 140-180 ohms. I think that must be the cold spec, but the 89 manual doesn't specify.
The air gap spec is a bit tighter, too: .2 -.4 mm or .008 -.016"
As to your question regarding replacing a signal coil: I am not aware of any source for just the signal coils or signal rotors for the V6 distributors: if they're bad, so far as I know you have to replace the distributor. If anyone knows of a source, that would be great to know.
Since even from 1sttoyotaparts the OEM Densos are over $400, and because used distribs from that year range are a very iffy proposition, I think the best options may be a remanufactured Denso or a new non-Denso. Two years ago I bought a distributor from Distributor King on ebay for under $200. It's not of Denso quality but it works perfectly and it comes with a lifetime warranty, for whatever that's worth. Apparently they are made in Canada, not China, so that's something.
But that's the distributor - have you checked the igniter?
#14
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Thread Starter
Thanks, Sb5 & Jay
I started the testing just as you guys sent it. Dist checked out fine on the ohm readings (at that point I was thinking about that expensive igniter). Checked the gap inside the dist, and it too was in spec. So, I headed over to start the knock test. When I unpluged the connection to the igniter, guess what... COMPLETELY FULL of water. I took some Di-Electric cleaner to both connections and then cleaned out with compressed air. I was curious, so made the connection back up.. and she fired right up!
Heres the connection, just in case someone else has this same problem!
Thanks again everyone!!
I started the testing just as you guys sent it. Dist checked out fine on the ohm readings (at that point I was thinking about that expensive igniter). Checked the gap inside the dist, and it too was in spec. So, I headed over to start the knock test. When I unpluged the connection to the igniter, guess what... COMPLETELY FULL of water. I took some Di-Electric cleaner to both connections and then cleaned out with compressed air. I was curious, so made the connection back up.. and she fired right up!
Heres the connection, just in case someone else has this same problem!
Thanks again everyone!!
Last edited by WetbehindEars; 04-29-2009 at 04:08 PM.
#15
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I'm glad you found the problem. I also have a starting issue with my 1990 toyota RV with the 3vz. I have changed the plugs, wires, coil pack, and igniter. Does your plug look similar to the 1990 3vz plugs? It was raining out when our rv decided to take a long nap
Any advise is welcome.
Thank you,
Navy
Any advise is welcome.
Thank you,
Navy
#16
Registered User
I'm glad you found the problem. I also have a starting issue with my 1990 toyota RV with the 3vz. I have changed the plugs, wires, coil pack, and igniter. Does your plug look similar to the 1990 3vz plugs? It was raining out when our rv decided to take a long nap
Any advise is welcome.
Thank you,
Navy
Any advise is welcome.
Thank you,
Navy
WetbehindEars posted a pic of his connector, is it like the one you found on your igniter?
At any rate, the ignition and fuel injection circuits are nearly identical, so the connector style shouldn't make a difference to troubleshooting. This post may be of some help:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51130411
If you would like some more focused suggestions, it would be helpful for you to describe the symptoms - what's it doing or not doing. Is it turning over? Is there spark? Fuel pressure? Did the problem begin suddenly with no warning or were there were some lead-ups? Have you checked for codes? That may provide some clues.
Have you checked your fuses? Especially the IGN fuse in the drivers kick panel and the EFI fuse in the fuse box under the hood.
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