95blackToy

Well once again my 3.0 wont start. Today i changed my belts and cleaned my K&N Air filter, Well i went and drove it and got a couple miles down the road and it just died, didnt sputter or anything. I still have half a tank of fuel left so thats not a problem. I checked for spark and it would spark blue befor the dizzy and orange at plug 1. Cracked open the fuel rail and cranked it and had lots of fuel, Sprayed carb cleaner in the intake and it would try to start but wouldnt. Dont really know what else to check. I Jumped the cel and it would flash constantly about 2-3 flashes a second.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

95blackToy

tried with and without the filter, thought maybe it was the oil in the filter or something, no luck.

cracker_1

Make sure your AFM is plugged in??? May have come loose when you cleaned the filter.

95blackToy

Checked it its all good, It tries to star if i turn the key off before cranking it again. It is doing the same thing as when i had a vacuum hose off and it wouldnt start. I can also smell gas after trying to crank it for a while. Its like something is shutting the fuel off right when it fires. It cant understand why it wont start if I have Air,fuel, and i am assuming i have compression. There was no signs of a problem, I think it had a little bit of pinging before, not sure if it was pinging though.

95blackToy

My cold start injector time switch broke off a long time ago, I now have two metal prongs sticking out of the side thats not attached to the motor. If i touch a wire to positive and to one of the prongs it will crank the engine (prong A) , if i touch it to the other prong it will make the cold start injector click (prong B) . If i leave prong b connected to the positive and start it it will run but its not smooth and wont rev good, if i detach it it will die in a matter of seconds. I am assuming this is my problem. Toyota wants $208 for the cold start injector time switch and none of the junkyards here have one. Is there a way to bypass this thing? Why did it work fine for so long after it broke, and now its not?

Any help is appreciated, this is my daily driver, so i need a solution asap.

chevydan04

I believe toyota camrys have the a similar cold start injector system you might be able to get what you need out of a camry. Not sure.

Also the engine needs to start and warm up, before the cold start injector will turn off. Leave prong B connected untill the engine warms up, then disconnect it, it should run fine after that...

Keep us posted

95blackToy

alright i will try that. Its not that cold here though lowest ever is like 25. If this part was broken could it keep it from starting and running?

95blackToy

I will try to check it tomorrow, as i get of at 5:30 or six instead of 8-9.

95blackToy

Got a cold start injector time switch, questions are do I need to put Teflon tape on the new one? And the plug is broke off in the harness, it is secured in with blue silicon, any ideas of how to get it out?

jbtvt

Got a pic of the situation back there?

95blackToy

Not yet,at work. Imagine the plastic part of the sensor glued into the connector on the wire. Know what I mean?

95blackToy

Need some help guys, I got my sensor changed and there was no difference. I have looked for a vacuum leak, jumped the fuel pump in the diagnostic box, It will start but shut down almost immediately, I tried my other ECM and no luck, I know its getting fuel and spark, but it seems like it starts and the computer is shutting it off. I also have to turn the key off then back on or it will not fire at all. Any suggestions, I have spent hours working on this with no luck. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!! Need it big time.

jbtvt

The fp +B jump would seem to rule out the AFM, but since it and the CSI wires affect starting suggests fuel system to me. Tricky, but I'd take a listen to the fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail with a section of tubing, and check system pressure if you're able. Also check resistance/continuity on the circuit opening relay and main EFI relay. The jumper cuts out most else involving fuel inj, here's a diagram-



Of course having solid clean grounds affects everything too...

95blackToy

Thanks for the diagram. Do you mean just take a purse of vacuumed hose and put it up to the regulator? Rail is getting fuel,don't know about pressure though. I took a bolt out of the side of the rail and cranked it and fuel poured out. I got it to run once for about a minute. The warmer the motoor gets the longer it runs but still wont run.

Wrenchinjoe

Two ideas, but they are just guesses. All you did was change your belts, and clean and oil the K&N filter. I don't think the belts have anything to do with your problem, so I am leaning towards some issue related to the air filter.

First, are you using the OEM rubber duct that connects the AFM to the throttle body? If so, the process of removing the air filter to clean your K&N might have cracked the brittle rubber duct somewhere resulting in a sizeable vacuum leak.

Second, you mentioned oil from the K&N filter perhaps causing a problem. Look into that and see whether excess oil has been pulled from the filter into the rubber duct as an initial indication, but more importantly whether oil got into the throttle body. If there was that much oil (which I doubt) then it could gum up those small passages in the TB or perhaps ruin the TPS sensor.

Like I said, just guesses - good luck with it.

95blackToy

Well i fixed the leak in the intake hose and a few tries later it started and i drove around the block, well came back cleaned up and went to drive it again and it wouldn't start again. How do i check the fuel pressure regulator?

82yota

I haven't got an idea. Someone was screwing with my comp.

95blackToy

Oooh..its all good. I don't have a clue anymore either

95blackToy

Im not to good with electrical, especially reading diagrams like that. Im open to any ideas right now, could the fuel filter be the problem? I have plenty of fuel to the rails but its just a hope. I might go change all my vacuum lines again, they are still new but maybe i can find a leak or something. Have had quite a few people over trying to think what it could be. Could the EGR have anything to do with it, also what is that other EGR looking thing kinda down and behind the EGR? Tried unplugging the TPS, also tried switching my efi and starter relay and there was no change, so that cant be it. spark plugs maybe? But it starts, just dies instantly so that doesnt seem plosible Someone has had to have the same problem and gotten an answer.

jbtvt

Don't know what you mean about the other thing, share a pic. Apologies for the late reply, Comcast is slacking. EGR usually only affects closed loop performance, when your engine temp is up and driving. Possible, but wouldn't be my first look. Doesn't sound like a fuel filter to me either. Definitely worth checking vacuum though, if you can get the engine running turn on some propane or acetylene and move it around in the engine bay, engine will rev if it's leaking.

To check the fuel reg take a short length length of hose (to isolate the engine noise), or even a paper towel roll they say, put it on the reg (looks kinda like an EGR valve on the fuel rail) and listen, should make a steady pulsing sound. Not as definite as a pressure check but easy.

Haynes or an online FSM would tell you how to check the TPS, and COR and main EFI relays, also very quick and easy with a voltmeter. Or just swap them if you have spares. I'd snap a pic of the instructions but I'm away from home. Your COR is here - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-fixed-228628/ , different engine but same place, under pass kick plate.

Just trying to rule out the fairly easy likely stuff here, without a code it's a crapshoot. Let us know when you solve it.