helidriver

Injectors out. All look ok. nothing obvious.....

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

clearly, one had been changed in the past. the "business end" is different, too.

look elsewhere for injector cleaning, someplace that warranties their work. WH does NOT.

there is a test for the CSI in the FSM for leakage. simple, too.

also, since you've got things apart, now is a great time to replace the injector connectors with updated ones. i installed a set from "injector connectors dot com", and these allow for easy unplugging while the rail & plenum are fully intact; useful for swapping connectors to different injectors for diagnosing. much better than the original connector design.

wally

Charchee

You sure do have some gas in your intake. From the look of your injectors and by how high up it is, I'd say it would almost have to be coming from your CSI. Need to test it for a leak.

Did you ever figure out how the tech determined that the miss was coming from number one? What method did he use to test it?

As far as your mismatched injectors go, I put in a set of aftermarket injectors in my 3VZE a couple years ago. I have had absolutely no trouble out of them and I got the whole set for $150. You may think about replacing them since you already have them out. Some may argue with that but I just wanted to let you know that you can replace them without breaking the bank. Not necessarily suggesting that you go that route though.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If you want to do a home test on the injector, you can use the little 9 volt square battery with some leads, and a large syringe with a hose and injector cleaner to see if it closing all the way. I Googled a test for them and it is an easy test to do just to see if one is failing/leaking.

Charchee

You wouldn't have full rail pressure but you would probably still see evidence of a leak if there was one. Just keep some pressure on it for an extended period of time. If you have a leak, it's not massive. May take several seconds for even a drop to form on the end of it with that little pressure.

helidriver

No, dealership was pretty mad I paid for 99.99 diagnostic, which is suppose to pay the tech for an hour, then 5 hours later they couldn't nail it down so to make up for it they wanted to charge to remove the injectors $500/5hrs, but I took it back and had them out in 20mins...... So they weren't telling me much.

Sent the injectors and CSI out to flowtest and clean.

How do those new connectors work?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

the new connectors are nice, and work much better. they have external wire clips that you can "pinch" to remove them from the injector.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Charchee.. If the Injector is leaking under high pressure, the test I described wont work for that. So far it has helped me find two bad injectors that failed at low pressure.

Helidriver... One hard lesson I learned the hard way is just because a you can pass a Continuity check does not mean the circuit is good. I have yet to see a bad computer in one of these trucks as long as it did not get wet. Since your other injectors are firing, I feel Pin #10 and #20 from the computer is good. I am an electrical dummy but the Injector Circuit is easy on these trucks. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320 The blue wire feeds two injectors and the yellow wire feeds two injectors. I forget which is which on which wire feeds the pair of injectors. 1/3 is on one wire and 2/4 is on another wire.

The way Toyota has two injectors on one wire is a poorly designed crimp connecting the two injectors to the one wire. It is like a heavy duty staple wrapped around the three wires. My crimps were so corroded that it would let just enough of the signal to pass to pass a continuity check but not enough electric to fire the injector. I fixed a truck where one injector was not firing and the wire had worked its way out of the crimp.

The crimp is in the saddle part of the harness from the inner fender to the Plenum. You will probably find it easier to remove the harness cover from the injector to the crimps and still need to remove the Plenum. The crimps are just covered with a piece of electrical tape. I have found sand, oil and water in the wiring harness when getting to the crimps.

Alex at connectorsfast.com is a great guy and knows his connectors and are far better then the factory connector.

I know these trucks well but did have to send a truck to Toyota for a Cherry Manifold issue. I quizzed them good about there way of testing on their analysis machine. It was supposed to tell them everything. A waste of money. The guys that worked on these trucks have mostly retired or moved on. We are now having to work on these trucks that are having issues due to age related problems. When the trucks were under warranty, corroded connectors was not an issue for them so even the mechanics that are still there very rarily work on these trucks.

Charchee

What did your 02 sensor look like when you changed it?

Number two injector pins look to be corroded pretty bad. What did the connector side look like? Possible bad connection?

Did you ever pull your plugs and look at them next to each other?

Not sure where your knock sensor is on that engine. On my 6cyl is in there deep but you are in there deep right now. Ever think about changing it out while you're in there just as a maintenance item?

Terry is right about those injector wire crimps but really look hard at your harness first before you tear into it hunting those down. Some of these old harnesses are not healthy enough for surgery. I know mine would not survive. Everything is way to brittle. I had to buy injectors that came with those new connectors shown above. They came with pigtail adapters to swap over to the new style. I had to do that because my injector plugs and wires broke on four out of six of them when I disconnected them. I honestly can't believe I was able to graft the new connectors into my harness and not do anymore damage.

Since I knew I was going to have to replace the entire engine harness at some point in the future, I started hunting one. Not a week later one of my hands at work was about to move and let me pick his 88 model for anything I wanted as long as I took what was left of the truck with me when I left. The 88's harness was like brand new and it had 240K miles on it. So far I haven't had to install it but that time is coming. All I'm saying is to be careful not to make your problem worse.

I thought I was ready to make my guess but without looking at your plugs, I fear I don't have enough info and I don't want my guess record tarnished. We'll know soon enough when you get your test results from the injector folks.

Charchee

I may have missed it but did you ever say how you knew you had a "too rich" situation? Smell fuel at the tailpipe? Gunk on your o2 sensor?

Reed23

muffler and cat are 9 years old? I'd drop the cat and see if you can see through it for starters, next I would either remove the muffler and shake it around, or whack it with a rubber mallet and see if there are any secondary sounds/rattles, if so replace it.
points to consider:
1. aftermarket cats do not hold up nearly as well as factory cats, figuratively speaking they are cheaply made (most do not contain near the same amount of precious metals that serve as the catalyst)
2. most techs do not check cats, nor exhaust
3. engines do not like excessive back pressure

helidriver

Ok, after almost 2 weeks with the Witchhunter witchdoctor, I called them and they said they were still working on #1, which is promising because that's the one the tech at Toyota said was misfiring, so hopefully that's the problem identified. Now just have to fix it. They also said that #3 was a crappy aftermarket, which is funny because that's the one they replaced 30k ago when I did my rebuild and sent them my original 4 and they found a problem with the original #3. They gave me that one they are now saying is crappy and having issues also. I forget if they said it was spraying too much or too little. BUT, I got the shipping notification and they charged my account so I'm assuming they have all running at roughly the same volumes and should be here tomorrow. They didn't mention anything about the CSI. I thought for sure after seeing the fuel smelling goo in the 3 and 4 intake tubes it would have been leaking. Don't know how else fuel would get into the plenum???

The "rich" situation was diagnosed by the equation: misfire situation+ fuel smelling exhaust+ O2 sensor code= Rich..... Tech thought so too.

Tech suggested to check the CAT, but it's welded in and they wanted to send it out to a shop cause it's all 2.5in or 3in, can't remember, aftermarket header/pipes/CAT/and MagnaFlow. I thought they were probably trying to make up for the 5 hours they weren't getting paid in the "diagnostic" test. It could be the problem a clogged CAT but since that would have to be cut out and rewelded, I was saving that for the very last.....

Plugs all looked good when they came out, nothing close to signs of anything wrong there with any of them. Not sure what a good O2 sensor is suppose to look like after 10's of thousands of miles but it didn't look unexpectedly gooy, burned, cracked, clogged...... Looked like metal and batting that spends time in dirty air getting really hot would look like.....

At this point I should have just bought a new set from LCE or something. Witchhunter took way longer than last time and my Wife cut me off of sharing her truck after a week so had to drop another $200.00 for a rental. She works days and I work Graves so the theory was sound, lol......

helidriver

Are these more an "adapter" pug one side into old connector and one side into injector? Or do I have cut the old ones off and re-splice? (sounds scary, not much wire there to work with....)

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

the connectors in my pics come with a length of wire. you do need to splice into the old wiring. it is well worth doing.

sorry you wasted your time with witchhunter. they do not warrantee their work. there are many places that do. use those.

helidriver

Ok, injectors came back. Something was definitly jacked up with #1. That one should be better now. Cross fingers hopefully that will fix the misfire and thus pass smog and help the computer produce more HP and thus ergo help MPG...... However, the after market #3 is a bit higher than the rest, I don't know how far the scale relates to this as a BIG or little problem???

What do we know, what do we think?

1= throw them in and be happy with results as long as it passes smog?
2= order one denso to replace #3, pass or not, and hope its closer in parady to the other 3?
3= order a whole new set from a ebay specialty company advertised as flow matched, tested, reman, warranty, blah, blah, blah, for $75.00?
4= order a whole new set from a special specialty co. like LCE, with the same blah, blah, blah but with a reputation for $200.00-$300.00?

helidriver

Got it put back together and she started up. Runs alot smoother and no "bump-bump" and gas smell. Knock on wood I think I found it. Haven't driven tonight hopefully drive a bit and take a shot at the smog tomorrow.