Bstd_02_wgn

1986 Toyota p/u
22R Motoro

Dealship quoted me $300 to change the oil pan "sealant" today. I want to just do it myself. Is this an easy fix on the IFS trucks? Or do I have to disconnect the tranny mounts, and the block mounts and jack everything up? Anyone have some insight for me?

Bstd_02_wgn

None with advice? someone HELP!

ewong

drop the front axle
undo pan bolts

clean and scrape off old FIPG

replace

Its a real PITA

Dont bother trying to drop the pan w/o dropping the axle - I tried.

If I recall right you can "cheat" by drooping the axle w/o disconnecting the CVs - you want to lower it..

BUT

To do that you need some TALL axle stands to hold the frame high enough to gain clearance.

Of couse on a lift its alot easier...

Get some friends and some extra jack stands and some extra jacks and have at it - dont be surprised it it takes the whole weekend to get done...

rdlsz24

It is even a pain with a 3" body lift but at least I don't have to drop the axle

Rob

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

it is a pita period. i need to do mine, but i remember what i was like last time.
good luck. if you use the cork gasket, don't torque to spec. or it will split in two.

ewong

Just use the FIPG

Permatex Ultra Grey will cross ref to Toyota FIPG part number (read the package)

Bstd_02_wgn

Haha, well...this is going to be an adventure...Wish me luck, I have no help, and have never done this before...

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

yes. use the fipg. stay away from the cork crap. it is not that bad a job. just takes a while.

ewong

I have to do this soon as the pan is pretty rusty and its a matter of not too much time before it starts to leak

As I mentioned

You want TALL jack stands.
The "6 ton" ones are pretty tall and "cheap" at Pep Boys etc.

Jack the frame up AS HIGH AS YOU CAN "safely" do so.

pull the front wheels

Leave the front diff attached to the front cross member
Drop the front axle as a "unit" - leave the half shafts in.

When I tried this before (um like in 1994) I didnt have tall enough stands to get the frame up high enough to drop the axle low enough to get the pan off the oil pickup. I ended up detaching the half shafts as well to get the axle out of there - thats what took forever...

86tuning

Remember that new FIPG won't stick to the old stuff. So clean the old stuff off really good.

It's best to use a rag wet with gasoline to give the surfaces a wipe to 'primer' it and remove all the traces of the old sealant. Once the gas has dried up, you can apply a bead of FIPG and put everything back.

Also, you only need to see a small amount of squeeze out (around 1mm is plenty of squeeze out) which proves you have adequate coverage.

Squeeze out is the amount of excess sealant that squeezes out of the joint, and is visible after your oil pan bolts are tightened.

No need for a 1/4" bead of sealant when less will do. The excess sealant just gets into your oil pan, and can block the oil pump pickup tube leading to a blown engine.

ovrrdrive

Try brake cleaner next time instead of gas... It's like a crystal radio next to a 1000 watt stereo with 18" woofers in the speakers.

It will actually dissolve the old permatex residue from the parts...



Btw, to the OP, do you have any lift on your truck at all?

If your answer is no, you're dropping the front diff to get the pan off...

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Not that this helps, but it's really easy if you a 4" suspension lift.

ovrrdrive

I was going to say the same thing but figured it would have been salt on a wound.

Bstd_02_wgn

Nice, thats some serious help man, thanks everyone! I'll let you know how it goes.

longhungsilver

rofl

ya 4" suspension lift helps lol... for mine i just used a cherry picker and undid the engine mounts, lifted the engine up a bit (tranny still attached) and voila had enough clearance to get oil pan out (the pickup tube was a PITA)... had to undo those bolts with the pan suspended in mid air half in half out.

drew303

yea i was gonna say after pulling my 22r this weekend it seems much easier to just pull the motor LOL

taking the third out is a bigger pain in the a$$ than pulling the motor surprisingly. LOL imo

I think they're both a pain in the butt but the convience of having the motor out to do that is worth it. But you need a cherry picker, oh i just happened to buy one this weekend, how convienent LOL

ovrrdrive

I pulled my pan when I just had the 3" body lift and did pretty much the same. I unbolted the motor and put a floor jack under it and jacked it up right until it was starting to tough the body and was just barely able to slide the pan out.

Now that I have a 3" body and a 4" suspension, I could drop it in 15 minutes. :p

The truck has never been so easy to work on before as it is now. It's just hard to reach now is all.

CyMoN

on a non lifted 4runner we just unbolted the motor mounts and tranny at the cross member then jacked it up buy the bell housing but we did have the radiator out at that time

no matter what you do you will have to unbolt the oil sump to remove the pan
good luck

Bstd_02_wgn

Sweet jesus man......suspension is next in the pecking order...