joeynational

iTrader: (1)

More than likely its the piston rings right? No other way around this but a rebuild?

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

Oh a little more detail, my truck is a 91 w/ 22re..It had the infamous surging idle for a couple of weeks, then the idle would surge even faster when i pressed on the brake, coolant was disappearing, and just two days ago I was driving it and was missing bad, then POP radiator was leaking by the cap, steam every where, pulled over and got it towed home

So i replaced the radiator, belts, and hoses and fired it up, here's what happened, coolant leaking from exhaust manifold..took the heat shield off and noticed a stud completely missing!

I've got the valve cover off now and there are no signs of water in it at all

Kiroshu

Sure thats not water coming out of the "leaking" caddy converter gaskets? If it is its normal.

If pressing the brake affected engine speed in anyway theres vacuum leak in the brake booster vacuum line from it to the manifold or inside the booster Diaphram it self which at that point it needs replacing.

Coolant leaking from the exhaust manifold? Your sure? Coolant does not run through the exhaust system.... "Check Oil" If milky white theres an issue with either (blown head gasket/cracked head/cracked block) <-- this could have happened when or if you ran it hot. though you did say you had the valve cover off and saw no "water" or "coolant?"

How is it running now? Is there oil in the intake? Intake hose from throttle body to AFM? Check PCV valve. If its for sure oil comming out the exhaust it could be leaking exhaust valve stem seals and or blow by from rings. Does it smoke when you start it or when itss running? "blue/gray" "black" "white" <-- which color smoke?

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

its definitely oil, and regular looking oil too, like you would see on a dipstick no water in it at all

well the coolant wasn't leaking from the exhaust manifold but behind it, from the exhaust ports i guess, did you see the video above, you can see the coolant leaking and get an idea of how its running, i have it apart right now, but when it was running no smoke, just when it was a little cooler out I would get allot of steam from the tail pipe, enough that it would leave a wet spot on the ground, never did that before. and when i say cooler i don't mean 30s-40s i mean AZ cooler like 75 first thing in the morning

There is also oil in the intake manifold, havn't looked into the intake hose yet


Here is the back of my TB

Kiroshu

I tried to watch the vid but its choppy for me.

Yea thats oil in the intake manifold and throttle body for sure... fresh too.

Check the PCV valve before you go anyfurther unless you just want to tear it apart and clean it out. If the PCV is stuck then thats prob the issue but theres alot of oil there. It seems to be alot of "blow-by."

How long has this been going on with the oil issue? Does it consume oil? Or do you notice?

Water out the tail pipe is normal as H2O is one of the bi-products of combustion.

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

its never consumed oil, i check it maybe once a month and was always good. When the steam was coming out of the tail pipe it was ALLOT and it has never done it before, i also noticed it had the antifreeze, "sweet" smell

Do you think the oil in cat has damaged it? would I have to replace the cat and even the 02 sensor?

thook

Time to rebuild, new cat and sensor......that's pretty nasty.

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

I just bought that damn sensor too! You can't clean em off?

thook

It's not really advised. O2 sensors are pretty sensitive to solvents and contaminants. I didn't realize it was new, though. Maybe hang on it, install when you're done, see if it works, if it doesn't, then replace it. No biggie, eh.

swampfox

If you do try cleaning the o2 sensor make sure to use the right cleaner . regular carb cleaner is not made for throttle bodies or o2 sensors.

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

what is the right cleaner

swampfox

a throttle body cleaner . it will say on the can if it is safe to use on fuel injection systems. carb cleaner can damage fuel injection components. just get a good brand of cleaner ,the wal-mart brand of cleaner is pretty sorry stuff.

Kiroshu

DONOT CLEAN O2 SENSORS! It will contaminate them. You are to never clean them or they will never "read" correctly again. Replace a contaminated O2 sesnor always. Now about the cat... Well the cat buring the oil up in it is not any good for it and can make it a "bad" cat. You can try blowing it out but i would not worry too much. If it gets totally clogged you will know from the massive power loss to possible "no-start" condition. Sounds like a blown head gasket or worse... cracked head... If its got oil and coolant out the tail pipe its highly possible its a head gasket/cracked head, or a crack block. Did you run it hot? <-- Don't lie as it will help with diagnositics.) The oil coming out the intake could be a diff issue along with the sweet smell and oil out the tail pipe... PCV system? PCV in the truck at all? I think your next step is a compression test. Do you have a vacuum gauge?

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

The truck had the disappearing coolant trick for a while, I would keep tabs on it and refill as needed, my gauge never got out of normal. I guess i did run it hot, because when i was driving it I heard a POP and steam started coming out from the hood, pulled over and it was coming out by the neck of the radiator fill

It does have PCV i replaced it about 4 years ago when i did the HG the first time. I don't have a vacuum gauge, but i might go pick one up along with some other tools cuz it Looks like I have to fully rebuild it this time instead of just a HG. Ahhh its so frustrating almost makes me want to sell my truck!

Whats an average cost for a rebuild anyway? I will be doing most of the work myself, might just have the machine shop build the short block

Kiroshu

Before you do anything else can you get us any compression test results? If you ran it hot its a hi chance or: Head Gasket/Cracked head/Cracked block.

Well if you rebuild it your self using OEM parts it will cost in parts 200-500$. Thats if the head and block are good.

A machine shop rebuild may cost a penny and just in labor may cost as much in labor as your at home rebuild parts$.