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Non OEM fuel filter failed after 1000 km.

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Old 12-11-2014, 01:27 PM
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Non OEM fuel filter failed after 1000 km.

So I've been having problems with rust in my fuel lines. It clogged my injectors and I had to take them out and rebuild them. After some process of elimination diagnosis I figured out that the fuel filter was actually feeding a ton of rust into the line and the fuel before the filter was crystal clear. Replacing with OEM and never using cheapo fuel filters again!
Old 12-11-2014, 05:12 PM
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I need to replace mine too so I've been checking out the prices. Judging from the prices I found I don't think anyone can blame you for trying an aftermarket fuel filter.

The price for the OEM Denso fuel filter is ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS !
Old 12-11-2014, 11:49 PM
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Red face

Gotta love the Ethanol in the gas causes all kinds of rust to break loose.

To me the cost of a Toyota filter is cheaper then being towed a few miles
Old 12-12-2014, 12:33 AM
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I called my local dealership today for a price because sometimes the online price is about equal after paying for shipping. However those guys wanted $54.00... All I can say to that is, well, it is legal to smoke marijuana here. Perhaps they have partaken a bit too much.

Last edited by Odin; 12-12-2014 at 12:38 AM.
Old 12-12-2014, 01:14 AM
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On a side note does anybody know if the OEM Denso filter comes with those 4 metal gaskets? I'm going to order the filter and probably replace the gaskets while I'm at it because it does look like the filter has leaked in the past. I'd like to eliminate that from the equation.

Even if it does come with washers, what size am I looking for?

I'd like to know ahead of time as I don't have a backup vehicle to run down parts with.

Edit: Picked up crush washers at a hardware store. The size on the bin was 12mm x 16mm

Last edited by Odin; 12-26-2014 at 05:00 PM.
Old 12-12-2014, 01:05 PM
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Red face

They are called crush washers If my feeble brain can remember I could measure one for you.

I always have extra crush washers and Banjo Bolts because if I don`t I will drop one.

Now the Toyota ones come with the bracket and crush washers or at least my last one did

Like I said $55.00 is cheaper then getting loaded on the roll back to come home.

I have in the past used Napa Filters the last were made by Wix.

Not to be smart but you did get the filter on the correct direction??

Last edited by wyoming9; 12-12-2014 at 01:06 PM.
Old 12-12-2014, 02:24 PM
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My problem with their price is that I can get the same OEM Denso filter from another dealership for around $40.00 SHIPPED
You know even at 40.00 those dealerships are still making money or they would adjust the price.
My local dealership wants $54.00 for the same part.
On this part the word Stealership is quite fitting and is the reason it pays to shop around if you're not in a hurry.


Originally Posted by wyoming9
They are called crush washers If my feeble brain can remember I could measure one for you.

I always have extra crush washers and Banjo Bolts because if I don`t I will drop one.

Now the Toyota ones come with the bracket and crush washers or at least my last one did

Like I said $55.00 is cheaper then getting loaded on the roll back to come home.

I have in the past used Napa Filters the last were made by Wix.

Not to be smart but you did get the filter on the correct direction??

Crush washers, for some reason the correct name was slipping my mind last night.

I'm still using the filter that was on my truck when I purchased it but I ordered a Denso filter earlier today. I was planning on just installing the new filter the same direction unless the new filter has directional flow arrows that don't agree with how the current filter is mounted.

The seller told me he only has this one filter and it does not come with the washers so I'll need to purchase some.

.
.

Last edited by Odin; 12-12-2014 at 02:37 PM.
Old 12-12-2014, 05:42 PM
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Is it true you can toast the crush washers with a MAP torch to refresh them? I swear I have read that somewhere.
Old 12-12-2014, 06:12 PM
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Red face

Never heard that one but in one of those situations between walking or driving I could see trying something like that.

As it is crushed when tightened not sure how heating would cause it to return to the original dimension once it has cooled to room temperature .

Please post up your results when you get done with this little project.
Old 12-12-2014, 06:34 PM
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i would get a toyota fuel filter and new copper washers , but if you cant get new washers and there not pitted or bent up you can anneal them
Old 12-12-2014, 06:45 PM
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Don't be surprised if a factory one clogs quickly as well. If there is a lot of rust in the tank and lines from what ever reason then no matter what the quality filter it will continue to do its job and stop rust and other particulates from getting past it. Thus slowly clogging till it needs replacement as well. Just my thoughts.

You might want to try one more filter and if that clogs. Maybe pull the tank and inspect it for rust.
Old 12-12-2014, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9

Not to be smart but you did get the filter on the correct direction??
Haha, that was the first thing I thought had happened, but checked the labeling, says IN on the side facing the fuel pump.

Originally Posted by thefishguy77
Don't be surprised if a factory one clogs quickly as well. If there is a lot of rust in the tank and lines from what ever reason then no matter what the quality filter it will continue to do its job and stop rust and other particulates from getting past it. Thus slowly clogging till it needs replacement as well. Just my thoughts.

You might want to try one more filter and if that clogs. Maybe pull the tank and inspect it for rust.
Yeah I'm a little worried about that. I'll have to keep an eye on this new filter for a while. Weird thing is that when I got the pump to spray into my container from the line before the fuel pump, it was very clear. Also it didn't seem to have restricted flow like a filter that was clogged from doing what it's supposed to, just spewed out red/brown gasoline, lol.
Old 12-12-2014, 11:02 PM
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Denso is not the only company that knows how to make a good fuel filter. Use Wix with no hesitation.

Reheating used crush washers anneals them, allowing them to be hardened via crushing deformation again. But it is probably best left for emergencies.
Old 12-13-2014, 11:04 PM
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Heres a link to Fuel System Parts for my truck
This place is fairly reasonably priced OEM Parts
Just put in your VIN and pick out what ya need..

Filter, Fuel(For EFI) - PNC: 23300P
23300-39035 Filter, Fuel(For EFI) 22RE.. RN10#, 110, 13# $30.88

Collapse Gasket(For Fuel Filter) - PNC: 23300T
90430-12005 Gasket(For Fuel Filter) 22RE.. RN10#, 110, 13# $0.89

Last edited by UZI - SUICIDE; 12-13-2014 at 11:12 PM.
Old 12-15-2014, 10:30 AM
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Fuel Filter

I agree with fishguy77 i think you have bigger problems than a cheap fuel filter.I would bet your tank is full of rust,which would need to be cleaned and coated or replaced.With that said i would probably replace the fuel lines also,would be tough to clean them.Eventually you will end up with injector problems if you don't already have them.Oh and by all means use a quality filter if its in the budget to do so and make sure its installed properly.Good luck and hope things work out for you.
Old 12-26-2014, 05:32 PM
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Finally installed my fuel filter today. It must'a needed it because it picked up a little pep.
I once again found some stupidity by the PO. Only one of the fuel filter mounting bolts was tight and the other was about to fall out, plus one of the crush washers was missing on the outlet side.

I had a pan under that area to catch gas and debris plus I had my other hand under the bolt and washers in an effort to catch anything that dropped. I thought maybe the other washer was stuck to the filter, nope. That line was tightened down so tight that while I was loosening it I slightly bent the filter. Even as tight as it was I'm still surprised it wasn't leaking.

I understand why some people complain about what a pain it is changing the filter but honestly it isn't hard. The part that I don't like is the filter being mounted to the hot engine. That engine heat is just going to transfer to the filter and in turn is going to partly transfer to the fuel for slightly less power and less MPG. I know I saw somewhere on this forum where somebody mounted it to the inner fender with minimal difficulty and I'm going to do that when I get a little more of this truck straightened out. Now I have to find that thread again and bookmark it...

Last edited by Odin; 12-26-2014 at 07:10 PM.
Old 12-27-2014, 12:27 AM
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Red face

No big deal to relocate the fuel filter I have seen them cable tied to the AC hose.

Some get a coil bracket and use that to mount the filter to the inner fender.

Your better then me if you could change the filter and thought it was not hard I find getting the inner crush washers on so very hard .

Once the filter comes off it gets relocated .
Old 12-27-2014, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
No big deal to relocate the fuel filter
Some get a coil bracket and use that to mount the filter to the inner fender.

A coil bracket? I'm gunna have to check that out.

I was really wondering if both stock hoses are long enough to use if I mounted the filter to the inner fender. Or, if they would still be long enough to do that without getting a sharp bend/kink in them.

Last edited by Odin; 12-27-2014 at 06:39 AM.
Old 12-27-2014, 06:34 AM
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Red face

I never had any problems if I remember you spin the filter around so the hose to the fuel rail goes out towards the wind shield

I would need to look to be sure though.

As they are banjo bolt fitting one has some wiggle room to move things around.
Old 12-27-2014, 11:18 AM
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Try this link. It shows one common relocation point

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cation-195162/


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