Noise after replaceing timing chain, water pump, and oil pump.
#1
Noise after replaceing timing chain, water pump, and oil pump.
So i decided to replace my timing chain because what i have read with all the broken guide on these 22RE engines. I went ahead and saw mine was broke and decide to replace it. I installed a brand new set along with a new water pump and oil pump. After everything was put back together there seems to be noise coming from what seems to be by the front of the engine. I've been searching on here for something similar but i haven't came acrossed it yet.
Here is a link to the noise it making:
Thanks!
Here is a link to the noise it making:
Thanks!
#4
Registered User
One of the oil pump bolts can go through the timing cover and bear on the chain tensioner and jam it, if the bolt used is too long.
I think that it is the center top bolt.
I think that it is the center top bolt.
Last edited by millball; 12-17-2016 at 08:39 PM.
#5
I'll have to check this. Would I be able to take the valve cover off and look down or what I have to tear it down a bit?
#6
Registered User
I just looked at an engine I have the valve cover off of, and I can see the small boss on the inside of the cover where the bolt would protrude if it was too long.
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#9
Registered User
The rocker arms are known to make noise when they contact the valve cover, if the valve cover has been tightened too much.
You might completely loosen the valve cover nuts and run the engine a minute to see if your noise lessens, or quits.
You might completely loosen the valve cover nuts and run the engine a minute to see if your noise lessens, or quits.
#10
Didnt use a torque wrench on the tensioner, I did get it decently tight.
I looked down it but I didn't see something the looked to be in the way
#11
So I just broke a bolt on the steel guide when I was using the torque wrench. I think my torque wrench doesn't work that well, I feel like it takes more torque then what is says to click.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
So I just broke a bolt on the steel guide when I was using the torque wrench. I think my torque wrench doesn't work that well, I feel like it takes more torque then what is says to click.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
So I just broke a bolt on the steel guide when I was using the torque wrench. I think my torque wrench doesn't work that well, I feel like it takes more torque then what is says to click.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
Also the new tentioner seems to be more difficult to push in then the old one.
More spring tension than which old one and roughly how much more, obviously the 30 year old one will show spring fatigue. So long as it's not sticking or binding in its house and can move freely it should be OK. If you're talking about two new units having different spring rates, that could be different production runs different manufacturers and it's not a major issue as long as it's not binding..
I don't recall a spec for the spring..
#15
Registered User
I have a similar knock in my 87. It only occurs at idle. As soon as the RPMs are raised it goes away. My engine is totally new. LCE Performance crank rods and pistons. New upgraded timing kit. New oil pump. Rebuilt head etc. I have already replaced the tensioner again the new on from LCE was bleeding pressure from the seal. My timing guides are the metal plastic coated guides. I have been told they are noisier but not sure on that one. Engine runs great just cant figure out the knock. Pulled the oil pan and inspected the bottom end and everything is as it should be. I would be interested in finding out if yours is fixed and what you found.
#16
Just extracted the bolt. Been busy last two weeks. I'm going to buy a new torque wrench and new tensioner and grab some extra gaskets tommorow. Should have it put back tommorow and will update what happens.
#17
Registered User
I learned that slight torque variations really make a difference in chain tensioner performance. Once you get the timing cover torqued down, the tensioner seems to bind easier than without. Mine was sticking slightly at 14 ft/lbs. In the end 9 ft/lbs worked the best, and yes I used high temp threadlocker on the threads with such low torque. I use a 1/4" beam-type torque wrench and it is really accurate for low torque readings for about $20.