no top end, strains to do interstate speed limit
#1
no top end, strains to do interstate speed limit
Hey, guys. I'm a new registered user on here. First, thanks so much for all your posts because I have really done a lot of repairs/improvements just from reading here!
I have a July of 1988 Toyota 22REC EFI, automatic-overdrive, 2WD, short-bed, base model, with 205K miles, and it's all stock. According to the V.I.N. it has 3.58 gears in the differential. The truck has no tachometer.
The problem I'm having is that it seems to REALLY strain the engine a lot to go the speed limit on the interstate: 70 M.P.H.
I'm hoping that, through your experiences and knowledge, someone could let me know if this is normal and to be expected, or if something else is holding her back. I know the speed limit was 55 M.P.H. back in 1988 and perhaps Toyota designed her for that cruising speed, but it just seems odd to me that, even with the automatic-overdrive transmission, it takes so much accelerator pedal to keep it at 70 M.P.H.
If it is the differential gearing or the transmission that is the problem, what remedies could I look for? I don't want to blow up the engine just cuz I'm on the interstate, LOL!
Thanks for any help!
P.S. looking forward to the finger
I have a July of 1988 Toyota 22REC EFI, automatic-overdrive, 2WD, short-bed, base model, with 205K miles, and it's all stock. According to the V.I.N. it has 3.58 gears in the differential. The truck has no tachometer.
The problem I'm having is that it seems to REALLY strain the engine a lot to go the speed limit on the interstate: 70 M.P.H.
I'm hoping that, through your experiences and knowledge, someone could let me know if this is normal and to be expected, or if something else is holding her back. I know the speed limit was 55 M.P.H. back in 1988 and perhaps Toyota designed her for that cruising speed, but it just seems odd to me that, even with the automatic-overdrive transmission, it takes so much accelerator pedal to keep it at 70 M.P.H.
If it is the differential gearing or the transmission that is the problem, what remedies could I look for? I don't want to blow up the engine just cuz I'm on the interstate, LOL!
Thanks for any help!
P.S. looking forward to the finger
#3
I wonder if the tranny is slipping??
i'd hook up a tach and see just what rpm you are turning at 70... also run it down the highway with a gps, to confirm that the speedo is accurate.
if the motor is way out of tune and such, maybe low compression, etc., you'll have to flog it hard to get to 70.
i'd hook up a tach and see just what rpm you are turning at 70... also run it down the highway with a gps, to confirm that the speedo is accurate.
if the motor is way out of tune and such, maybe low compression, etc., you'll have to flog it hard to get to 70.
#4
Thanks!
I'd be willing to try moving up to a better automatic if one would mate up to the motor.
I'd be willing to install better gears if there are a set that would fit, or a different entire rear axle with the better gears in it.
Would any power modifiers help such as an electric-fan and removing the pulley-fan, or installing cold-intake or headers with free-flow exhaust?
Or is it simply the 3.58 gears that are ultimately going to wind the engine up and make it strain so much?
Thanks for any help
I'd be willing to try moving up to a better automatic if one would mate up to the motor.
I'd be willing to install better gears if there are a set that would fit, or a different entire rear axle with the better gears in it.
Would any power modifiers help such as an electric-fan and removing the pulley-fan, or installing cold-intake or headers with free-flow exhaust?
Or is it simply the 3.58 gears that are ultimately going to wind the engine up and make it strain so much?
Thanks for any help
#6
I wonder if the tranny is slipping??
i'd hook up a tach and see just what rpm you are turning at 70... also run it down the highway with a gps, to confirm that the speedo is accurate.
if the motor is way out of tune and such, maybe low compression, etc., you'll have to flog it hard to get to 70.
i'd hook up a tach and see just what rpm you are turning at 70... also run it down the highway with a gps, to confirm that the speedo is accurate.
if the motor is way out of tune and such, maybe low compression, etc., you'll have to flog it hard to get to 70.
I can't be positive about the automatic not slipping but the li'l truck is a BEAST off the line! Almost kinda weird how quick she is! Spins the tires without flooring it!
As far as tune-up goes, I have replaced/adjusted EVERYTHING. The only thing I have left to do is check the actual timing, which I might add I learned how to do from this website
Compression has not been checked, but I was trying to avoid that because I wouldn't be able to do anything about fixing it anyways and it seems like low-compression would also affect the acceleration performance and it's great!
So anyways I think I'm still at upgrading the automatic or rear gears, but I just want to make sure before I do that that one of those is the real culprit because it's going to take a big chunk of change and I want to see some results on top-end from the money and labor.
#7
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#8
you should always check the compression on an old vehicle... another thing that is very helpful is to get one of those vacuum gauges from harbor freight, plumb it into the cab with some clear hose from the hardware store.
it'll tell you things like whether or not you have a burnt valve.
speaking of valves... have you adjusted the valves yet?
timing is a good idea, get one of those timing lights that has a tach on it, so you can set the timing per the factory idle spec.
it'll tell you things like whether or not you have a burnt valve.
speaking of valves... have you adjusted the valves yet?
timing is a good idea, get one of those timing lights that has a tach on it, so you can set the timing per the factory idle spec.
#10
you should always check the compression on an old vehicle... another thing that is very helpful is to get one of those vacuum gauges from harbor freight, plumb it into the cab with some clear hose from the hardware store.
it'll tell you things like whether or not you have a burnt valve.
speaking of valves... have you adjusted the valves yet?
timing is a good idea, get one of those timing lights that has a tach on it, so you can set the timing per the factory idle spec.
it'll tell you things like whether or not you have a burnt valve.
speaking of valves... have you adjusted the valves yet?
timing is a good idea, get one of those timing lights that has a tach on it, so you can set the timing per the factory idle spec.
#13
Registered User
These little trucks run around 2.5k at 70 and up. Unlike fords n such that run 1.5-1.7k. Get a little tach or look up the sr5 gauge swap. Then run against a GPS, as suggested.
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#14
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
It is what it is put that engine in a Celica it is fun to drive.
I mean the @ 120 horse power can only do so much
add a few more thousand pounds of weight it falls flat on it`s face.
With the drivers around here and the speeds on the interstate at 80 mph plus my 22REC just does not have the horse power to even run with traffic.
This is with a fresh rebuilt engine around 5000 miles although my vehicles do tend to put on weight with use.
Changing gears to get a higher top end will just take away on the low end most gear ratios shoot for a happy medium
I mean the @ 120 horse power can only do so much
add a few more thousand pounds of weight it falls flat on it`s face.
With the drivers around here and the speeds on the interstate at 80 mph plus my 22REC just does not have the horse power to even run with traffic.
This is with a fresh rebuilt engine around 5000 miles although my vehicles do tend to put on weight with use.
Changing gears to get a higher top end will just take away on the low end most gear ratios shoot for a happy medium
#16
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#17
Registered User
My 86 Runner with 31's does 70 all day long at just under 3K on the tach.
Down hill if I burry the throttle I have hit 85 but I believe the 6' tall brick wall that is my aerodynamics prevent it from going any faster. I also get the worst mileage above 65 (actually your peak torque is where its the most efficient but that's another thread) so I tend to drive slower.
A automatic transmissions torque converter multiplies the the torque of the engine. I would imagine that a 22RE powered 2wd with stock tires and not full of gold bars in the bed should do at least 70 without a problem.
Down hill if I burry the throttle I have hit 85 but I believe the 6' tall brick wall that is my aerodynamics prevent it from going any faster. I also get the worst mileage above 65 (actually your peak torque is where its the most efficient but that's another thread) so I tend to drive slower.
A automatic transmissions torque converter multiplies the the torque of the engine. I would imagine that a 22RE powered 2wd with stock tires and not full of gold bars in the bed should do at least 70 without a problem.
#18
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#19
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Location: Cohutta (near Dalton) Georgia
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make sure you jump the diagnostic ports when you check timing. with the terminals jump and idle near 750 it should be set at 5 degrees. 4crawler has a good description on his website. along with tons of other info
#20
If so, what gear ratio (or differential) from the factory would work that would provide more top end and less screaming motor?
Or what automatic transmission would help ease up the RPMs?