no speedo/odometer 92 toyota
#1
no speedo/odometer 92 toyota
i got a 92 toyota pickup 22re i cant get the speedometer to work. i tested the wires going to the speed sensor at transmission, im not getting a ground to the sensor. The hot lead works when i ground to the frame, so i know its good.ive tried searching for a cut wire/etc and found nothing, even tested for ground at the ECU and there is nothing. is there a better/other way to track it down ? does the ground start at the ECU or at the gauge cluster ? any help much appreciated. thanks
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I assume you have NO speedometer cable, and therefore have the electronic speedometer (I haven't figured out which years and models have which). I assume that you have an automatic transmission. That means you should have two speed sensors, VSS1 and VSS2. (This https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51500003 picture might help.)
The speedometer is driven from VSS1, which is a 3 wire device. (+12v, gnd, and signal). While thook disagrees, I can't see anyway to test a 3 wire device with just a multimeter. In theory, if you can figure out the connections you could apply +12v and gnd, and then measure the signal lead as you turn the gear.
Does any of this sound familiar?
The speedometer is driven from VSS1, which is a 3 wire device. (+12v, gnd, and signal). While thook disagrees, I can't see anyway to test a 3 wire device with just a multimeter. In theory, if you can figure out the connections you could apply +12v and gnd, and then measure the signal lead as you turn the gear.
Does any of this sound familiar?
#3
its a 5 speed manual and yes its electronic , i get voltage if i connect the black/orange wire and the middle blue/green wire i get voltage, but i get nothing from the green/red wire. i i spin the gear with a drill should i be getting any voltage out of the green/red wire ?
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On my '94 auto, 12v is on blk/grn (aft), gnd on grn (center), and signal is on grn/red (fwd).
If you can figure out a way to apply 12v to blk/grn and gnd to grn (tiny insulated clips?), the grn/red line will switch back and forth between gnd and 12v. (I think it is once / revolution -- so don't use a drill!)
I didn't use this method; I actually used a square wave generator to apply a signal to the truck. The speedometer worked with the generator, so I (correctly) guessed that the sensor was bad.
Do post what you find; this speed sensor is not well documented, and questions about it come up a lot.
If you can figure out a way to apply 12v to blk/grn and gnd to grn (tiny insulated clips?), the grn/red line will switch back and forth between gnd and 12v. (I think it is once / revolution -- so don't use a drill!)
I didn't use this method; I actually used a square wave generator to apply a signal to the truck. The speedometer worked with the generator, so I (correctly) guessed that the sensor was bad.
Do post what you find; this speed sensor is not well documented, and questions about it come up a lot.
Last edited by scope103; 10-11-2010 at 08:07 AM.
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No.
Odometer and Speedometer are driven from the same point on the transfer case; either by a cable to the combination meter or an electronic sensor (I don't which year/model have which, but the sensor seems more popular around 1992 and on.)
There is a speed sensor in the transmission for the transmission, but it has nothing to do with the combination meter.
Odometer and Speedometer are driven from the same point on the transfer case; either by a cable to the combination meter or an electronic sensor (I don't which year/model have which, but the sensor seems more popular around 1992 and on.)
There is a speed sensor in the transmission for the transmission, but it has nothing to do with the combination meter.
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#8
I have the same issue, My speedometer/ Ododmeter and temp gauge all dont work. I have a 1990 yota pickup 5spd manual and it uses a sensor not a cable. I havnt done any proding around yet but this weekend I will.
#9
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Get your test light out and check the following...
-First check the "gauge" fuse, I assume this is ok because you did not mention any other problems with the combination meter.
-Unplug the three wire connector at the #1 VSS. Turn the ignition to the on position and check that you have 12v going to the black/orange wire.
-Unplug the the connector going to the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold. This is the sensor that has only one wire (yellow/green). Connect the test light so that one end is on the yellow/green wire connector and the other end is connected to ground. When the ignition is on, the test light should illuminate or blink.
If your gauge fuse is ok and your fuel gauge works, but you do not have power to the black/orange wire to the #1VSS or the yellow/green wire to the coolant sensor (and your oil, brake and tach also do not work), I would suspect bad wiring to the cluster. A bad connection at the "I9" splice, that would cause the aforementioned problems.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 02-19-2017 at 05:05 AM.
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did you ever figure this out? My 92 4runner has the EXACT same problem. Trying to avaoid buying another cluster
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Is there anything else that does not work on your instrument cluster? Your #1 speed sensor and temp gauge share the same power source but different grounds. I would suspect the power source, but you would also have other items not working on your cluster such as the oil pressure light, brake warning light and tach (if equipped). The power comes from the "gauge" fuse and is supplied to the combination meter and #1 VSS through black/orange wires.
Get your test light out and check the following...
-First check the "gauge" fuse, I assume this is ok because you did not mention any other problems with the combination meter.
-Unplug the three wire connector at the #1 VSS. Turn the ignition to the on position and check that you have 12v going to the black/orange wire.
-Unplug the the connector going to the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold. This is the sensor that has only one wire (yellow/green). Connect the test light so that one end is on the yellow/green wire connector and the other end is connected to ground. When the ignition is on, the test light should illuminate or blink.
If your gauge fuse is ok and your fuel gauge works, but you do not have power to the black/orange wire to the #1VSS or the yellow/green wire to the coolant sensor (and your oil, brake and tach also do not work), I would suspect bad wiring to the cluster. A bad connection at the "I9" splice, that would cause the aforementioned problems.
Get your test light out and check the following...
-First check the "gauge" fuse, I assume this is ok because you did not mention any other problems with the combination meter.
-Unplug the three wire connector at the #1 VSS. Turn the ignition to the on position and check that you have 12v going to the black/orange wire.
-Unplug the the connector going to the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold. This is the sensor that has only one wire (yellow/green). Connect the test light so that one end is on the yellow/green wire connector and the other end is connected to ground. When the ignition is on, the test light should illuminate or blink.
If your gauge fuse is ok and your fuel gauge works, but you do not have power to the black/orange wire to the #1VSS or the yellow/green wire to the coolant sensor (and your oil, brake and tach also do not work), I would suspect bad wiring to the cluster. A bad connection at the "I9" splice, that would cause the aforementioned problems.
can you you take a pic of where the "I9" splice is located?
#12
All I did was replace my speedo CABLE yes cable in a 1990 yota pickup and I also replased the temp gauge when I did and enging swap. I found out that if the pin in the back of your odo is slid out a little it will kep numbers from turning so check that if you have an issue with fhat but its most likely a soeed cable. Now I did have one issue and that was finding the little metal piece that alows the speed cable to maye with the tranny
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Is there anything else that does not work on your instrument cluster? Your #1 speed sensor and temp gauge share the same power source but different grounds. I would suspect the power source, but you would also have other items not working on your cluster such as the oil pressure light, brake warning light and tach (if equipped). The power comes from the "gauge" fuse and is supplied to the combination meter and #1 VSS through black/orange wires.
Get your test light out and check the following...
-First check the "gauge" fuse, I assume this is ok because you did not mention any other problems with the combination meter.
-Unplug the three wire connector at the #1 VSS. Turn the ignition to the on position and check that you have 12v going to the black/orange wire.
-Unplug the the connector going to the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold. This is the sensor that has only one wire (yellow/green). Connect the test light so that one end is on the yellow/green wire connector and the other end is connected to ground. When the ignition is on, the test light should illuminate or blink.
If your gauge fuse is ok and your fuel gauge works, but you do not have power to the black/orange wire to the #1VSS or the yellow/green wire to the coolant sensor (and your oil, brake and tach also do not work), I would suspect bad wiring to the cluster. A bad connection at the "I9" splice, that would cause the aforementioned problems.
Get your test light out and check the following...
-First check the "gauge" fuse, I assume this is ok because you did not mention any other problems with the combination meter.
-Unplug the three wire connector at the #1 VSS. Turn the ignition to the on position and check that you have 12v going to the black/orange wire.
-Unplug the the connector going to the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold. This is the sensor that has only one wire (yellow/green). Connect the test light so that one end is on the yellow/green wire connector and the other end is connected to ground. When the ignition is on, the test light should illuminate or blink.
If your gauge fuse is ok and your fuel gauge works, but you do not have power to the black/orange wire to the #1VSS or the yellow/green wire to the coolant sensor (and your oil, brake and tach also do not work), I would suspect bad wiring to the cluster. A bad connection at the "I9" splice, that would cause the aforementioned problems.
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