warrenjcarlson

I did a lot of research on the first gen no key mods for the rear window. After a lot of work looking at wiring diagrams and using a multi-meter i found that modifying the relay box was not possible. So, I found a way to work around it. Please comment if you found this helpful!





This is the main area of modification.





I used three wires to connect to each of the wires leading to the tailgate key switch.





I used zip ties to keep the wires with the rest of the harness and out of harms way.





I bypassed the rubber boot that leads to the cab. I later came back and put electrical tape around the wire to keep it safe and caulked it to keep water out.





This is a pic of the wires once I got them inside the cab.





I ran the wires through the frame to keep em out of the way.





Here is the drivers side rear seat with the temporary switch





Final product!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Nice, i will see about doing this to my truck

millball

Of course it is possible to do this mod at the relay box in the drivers rear quarter.
I installed a hidden switch inside the drivers rear storage space of my '95.
Works perfectly.
I used a spare rear window switch from another 2nd gen front console.
Wires from the relay box to my new switch are only a foot or so long.
No need to run any wires from inside the tailgate.

There are two pins at the relay box (cant remember the pin-out numbers right off, look it up for yourself), ground one and the window goes down, ground the other one and the window goes up.

Center pin on the switch to ground, and the other two pins to the relay box, no sweat.
Works without ignition on just like the lockswitch in the tailgate.

Just the ticket when you are sleeping in the back, or you need to clean the dog drool off the inside of the rear window.

The correct wiring diagram for your year Runner will show the way.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That sure looks like just more places to have open circuits .

You should get a little better at understanding schematics

The real issue is your happy and it works.

warrenjcarlson

I am so happy with this mod, I use it all the time. I know there is probably better ways to do it, but this gets the job done and every time I use it I think "another time i don't have to get my key out!"
LOVE IT!

scope103

Doesn't the '95 have an in-cab switch for the rear-window already? So in a '95 it's just a matter of extending that switch (you're not really doing any modification "at" the window/wiper control relay).

I don't have a 4Runner, but I assume carlson's '90 doesn't have an in-cab switch. If that's the case, extending the key-switch line seems sensible. And if you're going from the back end (where the relay and key switch can both be found) to the cab, you're going to need some wire.

C'mon millball, if he had the correct EWD (not many of us do), he wouldn't have needed to use his multimeter. If you're not going to help him (and the rest of us) out, at least give carlson some props for figuring it out with no EWD.

But next time, lose the plastic tape and use heat-shrink tubing. If you're splicing into a wire (as here), first remove the pin from the connector. Remove 1/2" of insulation at your proposed splice point. CRIMP (no, solder doesn't produce a mechanically strong joint) the attachment wire, slide the heat-shrink over the connection and shrink, then re-install the pin into the connector.

millball

My '95s' factory in cab switch requires that the ignition be on to function.

The factory in-cab rear window switch does'nt even give the 30 second courtesy power after ignition shutdown that the door windows have.

If any factory rear window switch/switches other than the tailgate lockswitch will function without ignition on, I'd like to know about them. Any year '95 and below.

I failed to record the pin numbers when I installed my switch, and I had no EWD, but If I'm not mistaken, the wire color codes that come from the tailgate lockswitch, correspond to the wire code at the relay box pins.

If I ever have to open that trim up for any reason, I'll be sure to make note of the pin numbers.

mantree

If you use marine grade crimp conections they have heat shrink on them that also contains adhesive for a water tight conection.

warrenjcarlson

Thanks for that pointer, i am still learning the electrical side of cars...(kind of hate it when it does not work right... ) But the heat shrink and crimping is definitely the way to go.

Yes you can latch into the wiring near the relay box. There are a lot of wires there and you really need to make sure you use the right ones otherwise you might have a switch that turns on a rear light...

P.S. still loving not having to use the key to get in the back door!!!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Couple of posts from my thread, I tapped off the rear key switch on my 94.
Hot power all the time, for the female spade connectors I used insulated connectors I had on hand and heat shrinked them...

My new favorite wiring tool...speeds things up a lot

Crimped and heat shrinked momentary on-off-momentary off switch for the rear window

Rear Aux outlet for a future 12v fridge and dual USB for my rear camera

Granted this is an inside the rear of cargo area, finding a hot lead with constant power for the front switch to eliminate the use of the key would be simple

Cdn-wilderness

Hey Dropzone,
how is the switch working for you?
Im thinking of a rocker toggle reverse polarity switch in a similar place but a little higher cause of the sleeping platform in the back.

Looks good and clean!

osv

i realize that this thread is old, however i feel compelled to point out that the unsoldered factory wire crimps that toyota put on the 22re injector leads in the engine harness are by far the biggest failure point in the entire wiring harness, in part because the wire at the joint corrodes and falls completely apart, despite the fact that it shouldn't be seeing much if any moisture at all.

so the idea that crimping gives a mechanically strong point can miss the predominate failure mode entirely.

furthermore, a wire solder joint that's done properly never relies on the solder for strength, because the ends are wrapped tightly together, which along with the proper strain relief, give it more than enough strength.

anyone who thinks that crimping is the only solution should read this link, it goes into detail about how to do bad crimps:

"Now let’s look at what can go wrong. Crimping defects are either caused by an incorrectly set up
crimping tool or by an improperly prepared wire. For example, when crimp height does not meet
your company’s workmanship standards, it indicates that the crimping tool is not set up correctly.
A crimp height that’s too small may cut strands of wire, or fracture the metal of the conductor
crimp section. In addition, a crimp height that’s too small reduces the current carrying capability
of the crimp.
A crimp height that’s too large won’t compress the wire strands properly. The result will be
excessive voids in the crimp section – providing a lack of contact between the wire strands and
the metal of the terminal. In addition, a loose crimp will oxidize over time and eventually cause
an weak or intermittent electrical failure.
The solution to crimp height problems is easy. Simply adjust the conductor crimp height on the
crimp press or hand tool, make new samples and re-check the crimp height.
Loose wire strands are an example of a wire problem. If all the wire strands aren’t fully enclosed
in the conductor crimp section, both the strength of the crimp and its electrical current carrying
capability may be greatly reduced. The loose strands may also cause a short circuit, or arc to a nearby contact. To solve this problem, gather the wires back into a bunch before inserting them
into the terminal.
Another example of improper wire preparation occurs when the strip length is too short. If the
strip length is too short, or if the wire isn’t fully inserted into the conductor crimp section, the
termination may not meet the specified pull force because the metal-to-metal contact between the
wire and the terminal is reduced. To solve the problem, simply increase the strip length.
Another crimping problem caused by short strip length occurs when the wire is inserted too far
forward into the crimp sections. When the insulation is too far forward in the insulation crimp
section – the conductors will protrude into the transition section. Since there is reduced metal-tometal
contact, there may be a reduced current carrying capacity and/or wire pull out force.
To solve this problem, the wire must not be inserted into the press with so much force that it
overcomes the wire stop on the press. The wire stop may also need to be adjusted so that it places
the stripped wire into the correct position.
http://www.ipctraining.org/dvd/60c/script.pdf

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If I get this correct the whole idea is to be able to open the window or close the window from inside the back area of the 4Runner.

Be a simple matter to come off the relay and put single pole double throw switch of the momentary type that you like at the location that works for you

millball

That's how I done it.

warrenjcarlson

Just to clear up some potential confusion some may have on this subject... Some models/years of 4runner have differing relay boxes. This can create a problem because some have power at the relay box and others (like mine) do not. in order to have power there all the time you either have to get it from the front switch or the tailgate.

Hope this clears some stuff up