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newbie Toyota owner 22re

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Old 12-17-2012, 08:23 AM
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newbie Toyota owner 22re

Picked up a 95 2wd auto with only 55k miles for my son. Truck runs pretty good but only getting 15Mpg. Tail pipe is black and it seems to be idling low and little rough when it's in gear and brakes are applied. Have changed plugs, cap, rotor, and air filter. The o2 sensor looks new but the mounting nuts are really rusted. Any suggestions?
Old 12-17-2012, 01:54 PM
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Did you replace with oem parts? When I picked up my 89 22re the previous owner did a full tune up and it was running rough and doggy. He put in duralast wireset/cap/rotor with bosch paltinum 4 plugs. I replaced with ngk products and truck ran ALOT better.
Old 12-17-2012, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Russmoe
Did you replace with oem parts? When I picked up my 89 22re the previous owner did a full tune up and it was running rough and doggy. He put in duralast wireset/cap/rotor with bosch paltinum 4 plugs. I replaced with ngk products and truck ran ALOT better.
NGK plugs and BW cap & rotor
Old 12-17-2012, 10:36 PM
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timing?
Old 12-17-2012, 10:42 PM
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what are you calling low?

900 rpm is normal RPM.
Old 12-18-2012, 06:38 AM
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change PCV valve, grommet, and hoses. correct gap on plugs?
Old 12-18-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Batman
timing?

I tried to check the timing tonight but when I jumped TE1 and E1 the idle stayed the same @ 1000rpm
Old 12-18-2012, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtoyota

I tried to check the timing tonight but when I jumped TE1 and E1 the idle stayed the same @ 1000rpm
Idle not changing whether the jumper is in or out is one indication of a bad TPS. Unplug the TPS and see if it changes the idle. If it doesn't then you have a bad sensor.
Old 12-18-2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SPARKS89
Idle not changing whether the jumper is in or out is one indication of a bad TPS. Unplug the TPS and see if it changes the idle. If it doesn't then you have a bad sensor.
The idle did not change when I unpluged it....????
Old 12-18-2012, 07:17 PM
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Double check it one more time to confirm it's bad. Check the specs according to your FSM or Haynes repair manual then go buy a new one.
Old 12-21-2012, 04:03 PM
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Sounds like you`ve messed around with these things a time or 2 eh sparks89 Iseen that U did a trans swap in short of a day it took me 2 weeks to convert mine from auto to standard then to have the clutch fail and do it again two weeks later ... duuuhh
Old 12-21-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Snortin Nortin
Sounds like you`ve messed around with these things a time or 2 eh sparks89 Iseen that U did a trans swap in short of a day it took me 2 weeks to convert mine from auto to standard then to have the clutch fail and do it again two weeks later ... duuuhh
Haha not really. This is my first Toyota and I've barely had it a year. I've done a lot of reading on here and taken advice from a lot of people on here. These are good people that know their stuff about these trucks and genuinely want to help someone else just because they can. I think that says a lot for who they are and I have a lot of respect for them because of that. I want to be like that. I enjoy working with my hands and I like helping people if I can.

And as far as the trans swap, it was the first time I had ever done anything like that. I read a lot and asked a lot of questions here. It was a direct replacement for all the parts and even tho I didn't have to modify or fabricate anything it was still an intimidating project. I like to study things that interest me so I've put a lot of time into studying these trucks.
Old 12-25-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SPARKS89
Double check it one more time to confirm it's bad. Check the specs according to your FSM or Haynes repair manual then go buy a new one.
Replaced TPS and still no engine light on when they were jumped...?????
Old 12-26-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtoyota

Replaced TPS and still no engine light on when they were jumped...?????
Ok now you're talking about something else...

First things first. You replaced the TPS. Does the idle change when the sensor is plugged in v. unplugged?

Second thing....the light doesn't come on. I assume you mean the CEL. Does it come on when you turn the key to start the truck? If not, it could just be the bulb.
Old 12-26-2012, 04:27 PM
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sorry yes more info would help..

New TPS installed and yes it fixed the problem on Jumping Te1 and E1... adjusted timing from 2 to 5*..Truck seems to run better but cannot test drive with 9" of snow on the ground.. (2wheel 1 wheel wonder)

But the engine light doesn't light up when truck starts and/or in service mode.. I checked the bulb and its fine.

would like to get it fixed so I could check for codes

Thanksssssssssss

Originally Posted by SPARKS89
Ok now you're talking about something else...

First things first. You replaced the TPS. Does the idle change when the sensor is plugged in v. unplugged?

Second thing....the light doesn't come on. I assume you mean the CEL. Does it come on when you turn the key to start the truck? If not, it could just be the bulb.
Old 12-26-2012, 06:22 PM
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You forgot to change the plug wires and---believe it or not--- the dipstick. The seal at the top of the dipstick shrinks over time and thus the seal fails to seal. I have had this cause moderately rough idle.
Old 12-26-2012, 07:51 PM
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I'm not sure about the light, but now you have me curious so I'm gonna do what research I can tomorrow and let you know what I find. You be sure to do the same so we can learn something too please.

Glad the new TPS is working for you. Did you have to adjust your idle speed? It should be 750 RPM with the jumper in and around 900 with no jumper.
Old 12-26-2012, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith B.
You forgot to change the plug wires and---believe it or not--- the dipstick. The seal at the top of the dipstick shrinks over time and thus the seal fails to seal. I have had this cause moderately rough idle.
Good call on the dipstick. I'm sure by now a lot of people are having this problem.
Old 12-28-2012, 06:45 AM
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Those idle speeds are set when the trucks in park or in gear with brake on??

I got a chance to drive it yesterday.. Drives and shifts better BUT sometime stalls when I come to a stoplight.. I adjusted the idle up to around 900rpm when in park and sometimes it still stalls...

TPS adjustment ?? throttle stop screw?? dash pot???

still working on check engine light Most pepole want it to go away, but mine will Not turn on... lol


Thanks for everyone's help!!!
Originally Posted by SPARKS89
I'm not sure about the light, but now you have me curious so I'm gonna do what research I can tomorrow and let you know what I find. You be sure to do the same so we can learn something too please.

Glad the new TPS is working for you. Did you have to adjust your idle speed? It should be 750 RPM with the jumper in and around 900 with no jumper.
Old 12-30-2012, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jtoyota
Those idle speeds are set when the trucks in park or in gear with brake on??

I got a chance to drive it yesterday.. Drives and shifts better BUT sometime stalls when I come to a stoplight.. I adjusted the idle up to around 900rpm when in park and sometimes it still stalls...

TPS adjustment ?? throttle stop screw?? dash pot???

still working on check engine light Most pepole want it to go away, but mine will Not turn on... lol

Thanks for everyone's help!!!
Idle speed is set at normal operating temperature and parked. You adjust the idle speed with the jumper installed to 750 RPM. When you take the jumper out it'll be around 900. It's better to adjust it to 750 with the jumper in rather than just setting it at 900 without the jumper because you have to keep moving back and forth between adjusting idle speed and timing to get them both right.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Does the engine bogg our due when you hit the brakes? Hit the brakes while parked in your driveway. If the engine does anything you probably have a vacuum leak in the brake booster and you'll have to replace it. Check the rest of your vacuum lines with an unlit propane torch. Get the propane flowing and move the nozzle along all the hoses...especially where they connect. If there's a leak the RPMs will go up at that spot.

The throttle stop screw is set like this: Back the screw out until the throttle body flapper is fully closed. Slowly tighten the screw until it touches, but the flapper should still be fully closed. Give the screw another 1/4 turn and set the locking nut.

As far as the dashpot....open the throttle by hand and let it go. Does the dashpot catch it and ease it down that last little bit or does it just slam all the way shut?


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