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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 08-28-2016, 12:58 PM
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New to Toyota

Hello everybody! I am fairly new to Toyota and need some help! Ive got an 88 removable top 4runner with a 22re/w56 combo. last November the 4runner was running like crap and had coolant in the oil turning it into a sludge color. I was going to just do a head-gasket to resolve this issue, while i was tearing down the motor while still in the rig i was inspecting the cam and came across lots of scarring so i checked the bearings and they were shot. Curiosity took upon me to check out the crank bearings so i removed the motor from the rig and tore it completely down and found that the crank bearings were shot as well. I took the components to a local machine shop where I have had several of my Chevy motors done before, i ended up getting it short blocked and an RV cam to replace the stock one i also had him rebuild the head and change the springs in it to compensate. it took me 2 months to put the motor back together beings i work 12 hours a day and don't have much free time to work on it. I've within the last month got it back in the rig and all hooked up, and its not starting. ive double checked the timing. TDC on the compression and crank marked at 5 for injected motors, replaced all the vacuum lines and replaced 2 injectors. it turns over and cranks smoothly and if i hold it for about 15 seconds it starts to catch and runs for 10 seconds on its own before dying out. I tried using the Diagnostic short but the check engine light constantly flashes without giving any notion for a code. I am looking for suggestions and what i can do to get it actually started on its own. Any help would be appreciated!
Old 08-28-2016, 01:22 PM
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I'm a little stumped on why it would crank after 15 seconds of starting. On one of my diesel engines I would go to looking for a source of air in the fuel. If the fuel system looses it's pressure over night while not running, the engine may or may not start in the morning if it can't ever get enough pressure up. Your fuel system should be holding some residual pressure in the system even when it's been off for a few days allowing it to start up quickly when you crank it. If you had no pressure in the lines, it would take some time to build up enough to start. Your fuel pressure regulator may be stuck open, letting fuel return at a pressure below it's specified pressure. If this were the case your pump would have to work overtime to build up enough pressure to compensate for the fuel the regulator is sending down the return line. In that case, it would start but as the engine idles up to warm up, the fuel demand will increase and it will eventually die. My old 4Runner sits for weeks at a time and then I decide to drive it for a few days. After it's been siting for a couple weeks, it takes a few seconds to start. After a few days of driving it starts in about half a second. It could be any number of things. I'm just throwing an idea out there. I haven't seen one do this before. Just something to consider.
Old 08-28-2016, 03:31 PM
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Fuel pressure

Its cranking over just fine, the motor just depends on the starter for the 15 seconds until rpms pick up, then it only idles for roughly 10 seconds and dies out. I can smell the fuel going through the the system, not sure on how to check the PSI. I did not put the fuel filet back on the side of the block because it's a terrible place for it under the intake
Old 08-28-2016, 04:28 PM
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Where did you put the filter? Where are you smelling gas from? Exhaust or engine bay?
Old 08-28-2016, 07:29 PM
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Fuel

I am smelling it as it goes through the exaust, there's no leaking from the injectors (new O rings) and the fuel rail hookups are tight.
Old 08-31-2016, 10:20 AM
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You said you changed all of the vacuum lines. I'm not real familiar with the plumbing on the 22RE but on the 3VZE, the return line from the fuel pressure regulator hooks up to a metal tube that runs under the intake over to the passenger side. Where it comes out and connects to the rubber line back to the tank is directly beside the end of a metal tube that goes back into the intake. Make sure you don't have your fuel return accidentally routed into your intake. Your plugs would get soaked and it wouldn't run long if it ran it all. You'd also be smelling fuel.

I'm not suggesting that this is the answer. Just giving you something pretty easy to check. Lots of folks have done this especially after putting one back together after it being apart for a while.
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