jkepoo

Ok i just did the whole top end head from machine shop redone hg set,tc gasket set,water pump,oil pump was still new,oil pan gasket

I put oil in added coolant started right little timing adjustment had a leak on intake under thermostat but little so i let her run
Idled fine but some how next day wanted to put lucas in(leaky ring #4 cylinder)when i went to drain oil first thing came out was coolant clean n green oil still looked new need help any ideas

thook

So, what was the problem that spurred you to do all this repair in the first place?

jkepoo

I thought the hg hadblown but the head was leaking water jackets were corroded so igot a nother head and did all this work n water still getting in and it seems worst

thook

Did you thoroughly clean the block before reassembling everything?

93toyrunner2

Cracked block would be my assumption, machine shop can test.

thook

Yeah, that'd be my next conclusion....

jkepoo.....did you over heat this thing?

kdo58

my machinist said the most common failure of a new head gasket is not blowing out the oil and water in the head bolt holes, if they are not cleared out completely you can not properly torque the head down.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

few things to check and diagnose before you start tearing into this again. Could it be a cracked block? yes. Easy way to find out where your coolant is coming from is to pressurize the cooling system and try to find out where the coolant is entering the system. Get/rent a coolant pressure tester from a parts store or like. Don't over pressurize the system (15-20lbs) pull the valve cover and look, listen, and try to find out where it's leaking into the oil. Make sure you pull the plugs as well to listen in the cylinders. My bet is that if you didn't replace the timing cover when you did the head gasket change that it might be cracked giving you the symptoms of a head gasket failure. This test should be free if the tool rental is free. Wouldn't take too long and give you some proper direction as opposed to throwing more parts at it.

Fortunately if this is the case then the only thing you need to do is replace the old cover. Be sure to update us with what you find.

jkepoo

No i have never over heated got a little hot once 3/4 of the way then i pulled over not sure about p.o

As for the pressure tester napa doesnt rent tools and only other parts store is checkers autopartsbon the other side of the island not sure if thet rent tools
A new tester drom napa 70 bucks
Also lots of blow by start engine open oil cap lots of oil shooting out.also if i leave the rad cap off when running after 2 mins starts everflowing coolinth

thook

Well, my best guess is someone overheated it. That's usually how heads crack. But, before the block is falsely condemned......

kdo58 makes a good point on the head bolt installation. Anything down in the bolt holes obstructing smooth tightening of the bolts can alter the amount of tension that's applied to the head. In other words, if you can't get the head bolts to screw in and bottom out by hand before torquing them down, your torque wrench readings may show proper torque on the wrench, but it won't accurately show the amount of tension they're applied to the head against the block. Much less if the tension is truly even.

swampfox

When you pulled the head did you leave the oil drain plug out to allow the block to drain ? If you drained the oil and reinstalled the plug it would catch antifreeze ,and when oil was added for start up you would have contaminated oil. I will usually add oil and start the truck and allow it to reach operating temp ,then change the oil and filter again .

jkepoo

Took I ran the old bolts in n out to try n clear out the threads it was pretty clean then I used a vacuum to suck out any debri no compressor
I hand tightened it got snug and then slowly tightened in sequence in 10lb increments to 63lbs

Swampfox no I didn't it was on that could be how some got in but I drained it n refilled n still can se water coming out of the filter on valve cover

I'm thinking crack block lots of blow by and seems like pressure is getting into the cooling when I start it with rad cap removed it starts overflowing out not sure what to do just blew 5 hundred on head n all the gaskets n stuff hard to find 22r engines here everybody runs old yotas

jkepoo

Also I've been reading up on long blocks n short blocks was going with OER but been hearing some bad stuff about them here the Toyota shop everyone goes to 2k for a rering block with same pistons n everything else or 2500 with pistons n tc kit no oil pan not installed another grand to install but 1 year warranty any ideas on wat to do I really only need a short block but if the price is right n good workmanship I'll dish out the cash thanx

jkepoo

Almost forgot merry Xmas guys

thook

Yep, this does sound like a cracked block. Engh....I hope you're able to find a good replacement.

Merry Christmas to you, too......

92dlxman

timing cover much lol? i mean, just a quick look with the valve cover off. . . . . .if you have a rail-road going strait down the cover i'd replace it, i hear it starts leaking if the groove wears about 1/8" deep. sounds like an easy check

92dlxman

and if you have that goin on then time for a chain/sproket/GUIDES/tensioner replacement

jkepoo

You guys ever ordered parts from Car-parts.com I found some short blocks around 150

thook

I haven't, sorry.

Before you order anything, do check the timing cover.

jkepoo

Where should I check I took everything off when I did it last week didn't c no holes or anything but there is some signs that the guides must have broke before there some tracks on the sides on the top