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So I attempted to install a new radio in my 95 4Runner and I did everything the wiring diagram on 12volt.com said and it's still not working. Looked up so threads and saw that people had a problem with blown fuses, we'll all mine are good so I'm at a brick wall. If anyone knows what could possibly be going on that would be awesome thanks guys!
So I attempted to install a new radio in my 95 4Runner and I did everything the wiring diagram on 12volt.com said and it's still not working. Looked up so threads and saw that people had a problem with blown fuses, we'll all mine are good so I'm at a brick wall. If anyone knows what could possibly be going on that would be awesome thanks guys!
You didn't splice into the factory wiring did you? Every install I have ever seen uses a vehicle-specific wiring harness with the factory radio connection on one side, and bare wires on the other, that you solder to the harness that came with the radio. This makes a little 1-foot adapter cable that makes the new radio plug right into the factory plug.
You butchered the factory harness and created potential electrical problems rather than purchase a $8-$20 harness that will plug right in?
I've even seen plug in stereo harnesses in Walyworld for these trucks.
This isn't a personal attack so don't take this the wrong way but it's no wonder you're having problems.
There are some areas where it makes more sense for a do it yourselfer to leave alone, and this is one of them. Many Toyota owners experience strange electrical problems when they hack into the original harness, including me. (I purchased it this way)
This is the type of ill-contrived modification that gives experienced car people the heebie jeebies shaking their heads and talking under their breath when they see it. Not to mention lowering the value of the vehicle in their eyes.
I'd reconnect the original plug and get a plug in harness.
I assume you ck both fuses one at d/s kick pannel and one under hood that was what caused mine to work and I bought my truck with a butchered radio harness also if installing an aftermarket radio I didn't use the green illumination wire when I hooked mine up I also noticed if the cig lighter was unhooked the two fuses would blow one at the kick pannel and hazzard/horn one under the hood but then again mine is an 87
it's already chopped, and i've dealt with these situations, even did a few many, many years ago myself..... anyways, you got to get those wires away from each-other first thing, then test for battery power (might be labeled "clock" or something) then ignition wire, then, and this is where most make the biggest mistake: verify the illumination wire. it will read ground and then switch to power when you turn the lights on. it will chassis ground through the antennae shield, possibly blowing a pico fuse in the radio (horrible rca noise) and the radio won't operate right, along with the dash lights. iirc, you need to turn the factory amp on via the blue wire as well. it's been a while since i did the 4runner, so can't remember. was the site "the12volt.com"? i don't recall them having vehicle specific wiring diagrams...
The radio harness in my truck was butchered a long time ago when the new aftermarket radio had a cassette deck.
I ended up putting a factory radio in and I recreated the factory harness with a kit like this:
Try to find the factory wiring diagrams to make sure you hooked up the wires correctly. Also make sure that every connection is clean and tight. I have seen the butt connectors cause problems with loose connections.
Also make sure no wires are trying to ground out causing a short circuit.
You might need to use a multi meter if you still cannot get the radio to work.
it's already chopped, and i've dealt with these situations, even did a few many, many years ago myself..... anyways, you got to get those wires away from each-other first thing, then test for battery power (might be labeled "clock" or something) then ignition wire, then, and this is where most make the biggest mistake: verify the illumination wire. it will read ground and then switch to power when you turn the lights on. it will chassis ground through the antennae shield, possibly blowing a pico fuse in the radio (horrible rca noise) and the radio won't operate right, along with the dash lights. iirc, you need to turn the factory amp on via the blue wire as well. it's been a while since i did the 4runner, so can't remember. was the site "the12volt.com"? i don't recall them having vehicle specific wiring diagrams...
there is absolutely no power from the wires at all and all my fuses are good.
there is absolutely no power from the wires at all and all my fuses are good.
Then break out the schematic, trace all the wires where power is supposed to be but is not back to Ignition switch accessories contact, to fuses and battery.
You can find the factory harness online, and pick up a stereo harness. Between the two you won't spend too much, and you won't have all kinds of electrical issues. When I bought my 4Runner the stereo was hardwired (the guy had accidentally hooked up the live wire to the ground) and it ended up frying the whole electrical system. It was almost $600 to have it replaced in a shop. It's worth the extra time to do it with the harness and avoid future problems.
there is absolutely no power from the wires at all and all my fuses are good.
Uh, what does that mean? I'm going to guess that you put your multimeter from frame-ground to each wire individually, and with key-on you didn't get VOLTAGE at any wire (not the same as "power").
First, there's a lot of metal around the radio that is NOT connected to ground. Find a wire somewhere (fuse panel?) to verify you're measuring from ground.
Which wires did you check? There shouldn't be any voltage on the speaker wires, of course. I assume you were able to find all the correct wire colors. If that's the case, the one you care about is the L-Y (Blue-Yellow) from the dome fuse, and the GR (Grey) from the Radio fuse (that fuse is connected to ACC on the ignition switch). The L-Y wire just keeps the memory alive, so it won't contribute to the radio "working." It's the GR you care about. If you still can't find 12v, then you've got a wire disconnected in the 18" from your radio to the fuse panel. It's that simple.
(Of course, once you get your testing procedure down, if you DO have 12v on GR be sure to check that BR is really connected to ground.)
it's actually really bad to power an aftermarket radio on the red wire without battery power. you can damage the main power ic. many factory radios may run that way, taking the main load from the switched power and only keep memory off the battery, but not aftermarket. on many vehicles, it is often better to run a dedicated fused power and ground to the radio, since they aren't built to handle the 8-13 amp load in the factory harness.
...on many vehicles, it is often better to run a dedicated fused power and ground to the radio, since they aren't built to handle the 8-13 amp load in the factory harness.
AGREE.
It is good practice to supply ALL aftermarket things, including amps and lights from dedicated fused line. Also helps make sure that f after-market accessories mess up, stock circuits - critical to actually running the vehicle- are not affected.
AGREE.
It is good practice to supply ALL aftermarket things, including amps and lights from dedicated fused line. Also helps make sure that f after-market accessories mess up, stock circuits - critical to actually running the vehicle- are not affected.
Personally, if it's the interior cigarette lighter/"clock" fuse like most cars have, I'll add small-draw things to it without much hesitation. But never cutting factory wires. I normally move the connector for the cig lighter (I don't smoke) over to a terminal block and power things from that. If someone wants to drive some subwoofers off the EFI fuse, why not let them learn that lesson?
because then we have to be the ones troubleshooting high-resistance wiring (one of the most difficult to find over the internet).... btw, all amps should have a battery power wire rated by size and length to, or more than max current load and fused for fire safety.... btw, this is 2015, so "most cars" have the cigarette lighter tied into the obd2 power only nowadays..... it hasn't been clock power related for over 20 years.
09-07-2015, 03:01 PM
