Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DashLynx

New Project Suggestions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-23-2008, 01:15 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
DeGOAT!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
New Project Suggestions

Hey,
this is my first post on here, but I've been reading YotaTech for quite a while now. There's so much imformation! I first wanted to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experiences so freely. . . Now I need some advice.

So, I live in Southern California and just picked up 1988 4runner to be my new project. It's not in the best cosmetic shape, but there's no rust (or at least very minimal rust)! I have a couple thousand saved up from my summer internship (I'm an engineering student), and was thinking of doing some light mods to the truck just to start out before I got to the engine. the 22re does have a valve tick when warm, but just passed smog and seems like it will last a couple months before I can get to a rebuild.

First of all, I was planning on getting some new off-road rims and 33" tires because the previous owner put on some late model tacoma rims with retreaded tires ... not the best. At the same time, I want to install a 3" or 4" WabFab lift and do a cheapo rattlecan paint job.

These are just some thoughts that I had.... I would greatly appreciate any and all advice that this community is willing to offer me.

Oh yeah, I'm only planning on doing some light trail 4wheeling and maybe some sand in the future.

Thanks,
Steve-O
Old 07-23-2008, 01:27 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
jason191918's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hopkins, MN
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What kind of engineering are you doing? I'm an ME.

As for the truck, can't go wrong with LOCKERS.
Old 07-23-2008, 01:33 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
DeGOAT!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
sweet.

I'm a Junior general engineering major at Harvey Mudd College with a focus in bio-chemical and mechanical engineering.

I was reading about lockers... How much do they run? and who makes good ones?
Old 07-23-2008, 01:36 PM
  #4  
Contributing Member
 
gilby4runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Dickson,Tennessee
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SEARCH.... there are a lot of options and a whole lot more opinions. Decide what you want your rig be capable of then go from there.
Old 07-23-2008, 01:39 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
T-1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
You're opening up a can of worms right there...

There's auto lockers, which would be like Detroit and Aussie, and then there's manuals lockers, like a Toyota E-locker or an air actuated ARB locker.

There's also full spools, but those aren't really not for on road use.

Oh yeah, spools are maybe $80, Detroid and Aussie are like $200-500, ARB's are about $1800, and an E-locker 3rd member can vary quite a bit. Around $800 I guess.

Last edited by T-1000; 07-23-2008 at 01:40 PM.
Old 07-23-2008, 01:40 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I'm sure the wabbit will come in here and chime in with his lift kits, which I wholeheartedly recommend- I appreciate being corrected.

my opinion- with sand... if you're going to be doing the dunes at high speed, a long-travel suspension from downey (http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Suspen...s/1986-95.html) or total chaos (http://chaosfab.com/what.html) may be advised.

as for the valve tick- it's a toyota thing. even with the valves properly adjusted it's seemingly normal for high-mileage engines to tick anyways. what I've learned is that the tick is caused by wear to the rocker arms / rocker shafts. it does not mean that the valves are out of adjustment, just that there's a little extra clearance in the shafts the rocker arms pivot on. it doesn't negatively affect engine performance, but is just a bit annoying.

33" tires will need some sort of lift. you should be able to fit 31" tires with little trouble and no lift. if you don't want to spend the money of a suspension system, a 2" body lift should get you into the tires you want. You may have to pound a bit on the lip in the fender-wells to clear the tires at full left or right.

if you decide to go with a suspension lift, find out what backspacing you will need on the rims to clear the kit.
Old 07-23-2008, 05:26 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
DeGOAT!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I had been looking at that long travel suspension, but I don't think I'll be taking dunes that fast.... plus, that lift is somewhat out of my price range.

Would 33"s fit for a little road driving before I could put in the suspension? I really need some new tires. The retreads are virtually bald. :/
Old 07-23-2008, 05:34 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
bigt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
get a 1 or 2 inch body lift and you can fit 33s.. a lock rite locker is about 250 plus playing someone to set up your diff....

if you in engineering you can get the right tools and work on your own toyota....not that hard..get metric sockets and wrenches
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LucasF249
Pre 84 Trucks
5
09-08-2015 08:06 PM
justdifferentials
Vendors Build-Ups (Build-Up Section)
0
09-05-2015 06:52 PM
moparbay
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
1
09-03-2015 12:48 PM
dlaiben
3.4 Swaps
0
09-03-2015 09:57 AM
matthew138
Newbie Tech Section
0
09-03-2015 08:21 AM



Quick Reply: New Project Suggestions



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:34 AM.