PapaChulos4U

OK guys, I have scoured these forums for months and I still cannot get my truck running right. Here's the tally thus far:

-New ATK motor straight from the crate
-New TPS
-New alternator
-New injectors
-New clutch (not that this really has anything to do with the cranking, just so you know)

The truck was running while it was warm, it would start just idle VERY high (around 3K). Then the cold weather came and it wouldn't start at all. I have inspected and tested the cold start injector, it sprays and works fine. The IACV needs to be replaced I am sure. If I do manage to get to get it started, I have to press the gas to get fuel pressure, then it will only rev to about 2500 and bog down then die (the check engine light comes on at this time too).

I am over $3K into this thing but am about to sell it at a loss. ANY ideas as to what may be going on? I would more than appreciate it.

Thanks.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Try the fuel pump test jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

derockus

iTrader: (1)

did you replace the fuel filter? is the timing adjusted correctly? i almost left a rag in the intake manifold when i reassembled my rebuild... you do anything silly like that?

BamaYota1

Engine coolant temp sensor sounds like it may be bad. Also, double check your vacuum hose connections.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Can you pull any codes.

Now since this was a brand new engine did the builder install a new cam and if so was it run in (broke in)

The CEL will come on when the engine stalls

Cold weather crap in the fuel filter freezes does not run at all!!

As this has injectors pushing on the pedal just gives it more air.

Have you pulled your plugs if this has been a ongoing thing it can`t hurt.

PapaChulos4U

No codes, the coolant temp switch checks out. I jumped the connections to the fuel pump and I can hear it running. The main thing I do no understand is when you hit the gas pedal: it revs to about 3K, then bogs and dies. It'll start again, then die again (this is when the CEL will kick on). I really am about to just sell it as is and get something else.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Any air/vacuum leaks:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#AirLeaks

Fuel pressure regulator getting vacuum:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/8.html

Buck87

Don't give up.
You can do it.
Or take it to a mechanic you already have too much invested to just give it away.

BamaYota1

How can CEL come in, then you not have any codes? Are you sure you have all of your grounds connected correctly?

HighLux

You say you did a new tps. Did you adjust the tps with a multimeter? or just bolt it on?

ehenson99

With a problem like this you really need to post a good video of it so the experts can see and hear exactly what it's doing. If I were in your shoes thats what I would do.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You kinda answered your own question about whats wrong with it. Replace your air box.

The CEL/MIL will always come on when the motor isn't running, it's perfectly normal.

Oh and you didn't say what motor or year. Those are semi helpfull for the rest of us who can't see your stuff

HighLux

The IACV is not the airbox. Idle air control valve.

Buck87

If I knew what motor we are talking about I mite suggest testing the Air Flow Meter according to the Field Service Manual. That would be worth while on a 22re. Using the FSM is better than throwing parts at it. New Injectors are better than rebuilt so that was a good investment.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You know what I meant. It's part of the AFM/Airbox a-ma-thingy

What year does that move from a throttleebody attachment? yeah too lazy to research it myself, someones bound to know off hand.

PapaChulos4U

My bad guys. It's a '93 22RE. 4Crawler: my VSV doesn't have an electrical hookup like yours appears to at the front with the connector. Could that be it?

I've checked the VAFM (in fact, I have two-one from another motor) and both work. I checked the TPS and all tolerances are within spec. Again, it'll crank, start (sometimes) then bog down when the gas is pressed and die.

I don't want to take it to the stealership because the only one close said it would be $75/hr to work on it. My uncle is a Ford Master Mechanic and doesn't know how the system works so he can't do anything with it. I've had two other guys look at it and they've given up on it after I gave them about $600. I really don't know what else to do....

BamaYota1

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

Maybe you should start working your way through the FSM.

One member was having a problem something like this and he found a bad fuel line near the filter. The line was collapsing cutting of the fuel. Maybe you should go through the fuel section and make sure everything is up to spec.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I don`t think it is anything to difficult just something you hooked up wrong .

when the engine was out did you relocate the fuel filter to the inner fender .

I feel your pain I have a 4Runner that does not like the cold like quite a few women I know.

Your not all that far away only about 6 hours it sounds like your really stuck perhaps a road trip is in order .

Drop me a Pm and we can discuss this.

PapaChulos4U

UPDATE: I just installed a new O2 sensor and nothing. It will fire occasionally then just stumble and die (of course, the check engine light comes on when this happens). I'm at a complete loss. I had a retired Toyota mechanic come by and he doesn't know what's wrong with it so I think it's time to just cut my losses.

ROCKLAND TOYOTA

NOW you know why he retired!!!! I HOPE you didn't pay him also??

cold start injector bad or not hooked up???