New head instilation questions
#1
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New head instilation questions
So my order from engnbldr just came in today! Got the street RV head and the 261 cam.
When I took my block down to the machine shop they said they couldn't deck it with the lower end still intact. So my question is this, can I get away with just scraping the block with a razor or should I take apart my 92k miles RV bottom end and put in new rings and bearings which would allow my to have the block milled for the new head? Im not planning on taking this apart for another 200k.
Thanks!
When I took my block down to the machine shop they said they couldn't deck it with the lower end still intact. So my question is this, can I get away with just scraping the block with a razor or should I take apart my 92k miles RV bottom end and put in new rings and bearings which would allow my to have the block milled for the new head? Im not planning on taking this apart for another 200k.
Thanks!
#2
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well,it depends on WHY your changing the head? did it crack.was it a head gasket.what kind of shape are the cylinder walls in.was it a normal 92k or rode hard? personally,i fit didnt overheat terribly,and it ran with no lower end issues before,id clean it up really good and slap it on.i would also do a complete engnbldr timing chain kit at the same time...but thats me.
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well,it depends on WHY your changing the head? did it crack.was it a head gasket.what kind of shape are the cylinder walls in.was it a normal 92k or rode hard? personally,i fit didnt overheat terribly,and it ran with no lower end issues before,id clean it up really good and slap it on.i would also do a complete engnbldr timing chain kit at the same time...but thats me.
-Bo
#4
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Since you have it out already there no reason you shouldn't do all the inspections, just keep very good track of what came out of where so it goes back where it was. You can even do alot of them with the motor still mounted.
Did they atleast give it a once over with the straight edge, doesn't the cam replacment want a shorter bock. Those are the two biggest concerns for having it machined.
Be very careful when using a razor blade to scrape the block, in fact don't if you can get your hands on a good gasket scraper(smooth ground and softer material), there isn't alot of leeway in this surface 0.05mm or 20 thou is a very tiny scratch.
Did they atleast give it a once over with the straight edge, doesn't the cam replacment want a shorter bock. Those are the two biggest concerns for having it machined.
Be very careful when using a razor blade to scrape the block, in fact don't if you can get your hands on a good gasket scraper(smooth ground and softer material), there isn't alot of leeway in this surface 0.05mm or 20 thou is a very tiny scratch.
#5
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If you have an air die grinder I'd use a plastic bristle disc to clean the block. I think the green one is good for cast iron. Like these http://www.amazon.com/Roloc-Bristle-.../dp/B000XHMAP8
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I emailed engnbldr and got a very quick response. He said to inspect the block for any defects and if it looks good to just clean it up and then just bolt the new head on and your ready to go.
If it does need to get decked though you do need to take apart the lower end and bolt the front cover back on so it can be machined as a unit.
With how easy the headgasket came off im pretty sure i wont have to get it decked.
If it does need to get decked though you do need to take apart the lower end and bolt the front cover back on so it can be machined as a unit.
With how easy the headgasket came off im pretty sure i wont have to get it decked.
#7
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i got the same head and cam from ENGNBLDR, along with decked the block and am running .020 over pistons. it's ˟˟˟ken fantastic, but I also have a Thorley header and 5mge AFM with 3" intake tubing and 2.25" exhaust all the way back. you won't be disappointed, but keep in mind the valves will be LOUD unless you set the lash tight. I highly recommend getting the block decked and the cylinders at least honed.
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