New Exhaust on 3.0 with intake headers, and cams
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
New Exhaust on 3.0 with intake headers, and cams
Once I get all the parts in about a week I'll post pics, prices, videos, and soundclips.
Heres the run down of my (soon to be) set-up:
3.0 rebuilt in '04
Performance cams
No EGR, No PAIR Reed valve.
3 inch PVC Intake
Downey Headers (2.5", Chrome)
2.5" crossover, welded
2.5" pipe going to Cherry Bomb Turbo, 2.5" out
Exits same as stock, with a angle tip.
I'm going with 2.5" piping, not 2.25" because of the cams (someone correct me if I am wrong). 2.5" piping should still have enough back pressure, no?
Will be excited to see the results soon, and the sound.
Right now I have the driver side going into the stock muffler, and the passenger side open. It's loud as hell, and annoying but it's only temporary.
I lost all my low end torque, but it'll be back with the exhaust.
Heres the run down of my (soon to be) set-up:
3.0 rebuilt in '04
Performance cams
No EGR, No PAIR Reed valve.
3 inch PVC Intake
Downey Headers (2.5", Chrome)
2.5" crossover, welded
2.5" pipe going to Cherry Bomb Turbo, 2.5" out
Exits same as stock, with a angle tip.
I'm going with 2.5" piping, not 2.25" because of the cams (someone correct me if I am wrong). 2.5" piping should still have enough back pressure, no?
Will be excited to see the results soon, and the sound.
Right now I have the driver side going into the stock muffler, and the passenger side open. It's loud as hell, and annoying but it's only temporary.
I lost all my low end torque, but it'll be back with the exhaust.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
/me has little concern over the lack of EGR valve but then again, it's not my air, right?
and no PAIR? why not? PAIR takes about 0 HP to operate and cleans up the exhaust a bit, almost enough to overlook the lack of EGR... but not quite.
... and you should have all the exhaust going by the O2 sensor, but it's not my truck so what do you care?
and no PAIR? why not? PAIR takes about 0 HP to operate and cleans up the exhaust a bit, almost enough to overlook the lack of EGR... but not quite.
... and you should have all the exhaust going by the O2 sensor, but it's not my truck so what do you care?
#5
i believe the factory piping is 2 inches so 2 1/4 should be plenty! If you were super charging i'd say 2 1/2. I dont' think cams are gonna push out that much more hp. Just my opinion. As far as egr goes, It brings down engine temps among other things. Not having it working is not something i'd recomend. especially with a 3.0. Good luck with whatever you decide. dont forget to ge sound clips of the exhuast! before and after maybe?
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
well the crossover will be 2.5", from Downey. all the shops want $250+ just to make the crossover. the piping after that can be whatever.
from what you guys say it looks like 2.25" will be my best bet for after the crossover.
how does the EGR decrease temps if it pumps hot exhaust air into the engine?
from what you guys say it looks like 2.25" will be my best bet for after the crossover.
how does the EGR decrease temps if it pumps hot exhaust air into the engine?
Trending Topics
#8
Just throwing it out there, if your looking for some Downey headers for the 3.SLOW.. Theres a set on Craigslist in Montana. Heres the link.. http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/1093365703.html
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
2.5" is much too big! With headers you will lose low end power...
Stick with 2.25" pipes..
The EGR cools the combustion chamber by introducing inert gas (cannot burn) thus cooling the motor... Or so they say
Stick with 2.25" pipes..
The EGR cools the combustion chamber by introducing inert gas (cannot burn) thus cooling the motor... Or so they say
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ah, gotcha. But my MPG increases, and it is a bit quicker, so I'll leave it out. Besides I cut the pipe that goes into the intake out of frustration when I removed the old engine. Whoops.
I have one video clip of how it sounded stock from last winter. A clip of it with stock manifolds, but ended with no cat. (needed new gaskets). And a clip of the same set=up only with a cat on.
I can take another one of straight headers, just to show you how LOUD they are, and then the final completed one.
I have one video clip of how it sounded stock from last winter. A clip of it with stock manifolds, but ended with no cat. (needed new gaskets). And a clip of the same set=up only with a cat on.
I can take another one of straight headers, just to show you how LOUD they are, and then the final completed one.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I dunno. lol. It came with the engine.
Got it from the shop today. $90, welded everything together, put hangers on, welded the o2 bung in.
I went with a Cherry Bomb Turbo, with is the next one up from a glass pack.
Results:I like it, especially for the money. Now that everything is all buttoned up, (save for the EGR hole and O2 [need to get a new one]) I get a real feel for how it performs verses my old one. Much, much better than my old 3.0. Idle is smooth as glass, throttle response is great, and I noticed a definite improvement in acceleration, and overall performance.
Pictures and videos when the sun shines. It's raining here.
Got it from the shop today. $90, welded everything together, put hangers on, welded the o2 bung in.
I went with a Cherry Bomb Turbo, with is the next one up from a glass pack.
Results:I like it, especially for the money. Now that everything is all buttoned up, (save for the EGR hole and O2 [need to get a new one]) I get a real feel for how it performs verses my old one. Much, much better than my old 3.0. Idle is smooth as glass, throttle response is great, and I noticed a definite improvement in acceleration, and overall performance.
Pictures and videos when the sun shines. It's raining here.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Photos & Videos are uploading.
Quick question about the O2 Sensor.
I had to get a standard screw in type O2 sensor bung welded on. Auto parts stores are of no help. I'm just looking for a 4 wire sensor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Quick question about the O2 Sensor.
I had to get a standard screw in type O2 sensor bung welded on. Auto parts stores are of no help. I'm just looking for a 4 wire sensor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#15
Registered User
obviously you are going to the wrong auto parts store, maybe deadzone. go to checker, shucks, kragen or o'reilly, ask them for a p/n- 15732 bosch oxygen sensor, its a 4 wire universal, with all the professional splice connectors.
#17
Registered User
ya, on the mrs mini van, pain in the ass to wire, but works just like it should. i work for kragen, just had a customer in for an old t-bucket he was converting to injection, sold him the same one. When a customer walks into our store, we treat them the right way, we all have an open mind to suggestions and ideas. Most stores i have been into (our company and others) the employees treat the customers like crap, its just wrong. but yeah, its just a run of the mill O2 sensor. Its a 4 wire, heated.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Blamalam
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
22
03-12-2022 07:34 AM
priest16
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
15
08-06-2015 07:43 AM