Moto260

First i'll start by saying this is a great site. My buddy just told me about it, and everything i could ever ask about my Yota is covered--and then some. Wish i woulda been here when i dug into my 22re, I'll tell ya this woulda helped. Anyways...
I got the 3.0 >< 1988 4runner, its got 315 thousand miles on it. I've got a low budget for a few months and figured i'd get some opinions on what i should do. Im pretty much running on 5 cylinders (cylinder 6 has 35 compression) burnt valves im sure, and a head gasket.
Should i save up and wait to get a rebuilt 3.0, (They're $2300 in sacramento) or should i dig into the head/valves? Just contemplating because of the 315 thousand miles on it. (would i have bottom end problems?) I've done the 22re head gaskets and such, but from what i see on the threads, the 3.0's are a whole different ball park. ''Keep in mind-- I am not capable or have the money to do the 3.4 swap''
Any Opinions would be great. Thanks.

Gamefreakgc

These trucks are everywhere in the Sacramento and Placer counties. I feel like we live in Yota land!

That being said, have a leak down check on your truck. It will compress air into the engine, telling you where the leak is. If it's out the radiator, you've got a blown HG (bad). If it's out the oil cap, you've got serious engine damage or bad o-rings on your pistons (new engine time!). However, if the leak is our your air intake or exhaust pipe (best possible result), you've only got a valve issue.

I aspire to hit 315k! Only my dad's jeep has ever gone that long (yes, I know, I said the "J" word) that I've seen. Just recently at 280k, I checked my valves. I had very low compression in cylinder 3, causing my engine to wobble real bad. I also was consistently getting a code 25. The reason was the exhaust valve wasn't closing all the way, causing unburnt fuel and oxygen to exit the engine before complete combustion. A valve adjustment did the trick and it runs like new again!

That being said, if it's a valve adjustment it's still a 2-3 day project since you'll need to special order the valve shims. None of the Toyota dealers around here keep them in stock anymore. A HG replacement is longer (and you should check the clearances and adjust if needed since you're in there anyway). Get a leak down test and pin-point the issue and let us know.

Moto260

Awesome man, thanks for the advice. I'm gunna look around on here see if i cant do the leak down test myself. This 88 yota is cleaner than any other i've ever had. I'm sure with the 315k miles its had a head gasket replaced before but no telling. If i can't get it done myself, ill talk to my mechanic see if he cant run a test for me, i'll let you know what comes up.

Austin Marr

Hey have you heard about the 3.4 swap??? HIGHLY recommend it if your going to spend 1200 in repairs to your 3.slo....tranny bolts right up to it and you'll have way more power.\

Oh my bad didn't read your post all the way thorough, just skimmed through it ha. well thats a bummer cause the 3.4 swap is real easy especially if you do things your self. got/know someone with a welder? than make your own crossover. Got 15 bucks for wiring diagrams? soldering kit from orilleys? it really is that simple. rent a engine hoist for a day or so when your ready to yank your old motor and put that 3.4 in.

Moto260

Ya I'd really love to do the swap. It'd be soo much better than the 3.0. I'm just not good at wiring at all. And build my own crossover? I was thinking if I need the whole new engine though. Maybe I could just get a rolled t-100 or something tho and just take the engine part out the body! Just don't know how much trouble I'd have with it. I've seen the 3.4 swaps so I'm sure I could be walked through on this site. Idk we'll see how the test goes on it. Ill consider if my rings are fried. May as well rebuild the right way huh. Haha

Moto260

How much you think a 3.4 swap would run me?$$$

niall

The same or less than getting the 3.0 rebuilt.

Moto260

Dang man reading up on it almost sells me lol. Think a used 3.4 would be alright? It'd be a lot cheaper if I got a used 3.4 just don't trust used 3.0's Could prolly afford the 3.4 right now too.

Gamefreakgc

3.0's were great new. Not so great used and definitely not worth the money if you can put in a 3.4 for the same price. If you do get a 3.4, you might want to do a good amount on maintenance/rebuilding to make sure it's in top shape. I have no experience working on a 3.4 though, anyone want to chime in on things to look for?

niall

Just get a lower km used one out of a wreck.

Check/change the timing belt, do the plugs, new wires, and general tune up stuff, you'll be good to go for quite some time.

A good check in general, and not all wreckers/engine resellers will let you, is to pull a valve cover and just check the condition, lots of sludge can be a sign of poor past maintenance.

Austin Marr

Check out my build thread dude. it really isn't that difficult. plenty of us have done it. In my 3.4 thread i show how to build your own crossover so you do not have to re-do your whole exhaust. You can PM me or any of the guys on here that have done it. If you do get a donor that is a t-100 its MUCH easier and it really isn't that bad. it looks really complicated but you just do one wire at a time and thats the hardest part. and yes a used 3.4 is completely fine. those motors are way better than the 3.0's ever were new. they solved the head gasket issues and there aren't all those gay vaccum lines and there's so much room to work

As far as the 3.4 maintenance goes its easier to work on. Especially if the motor is on a engine stand. If it isn't it still isn't bad when its in the engine bay. The T-belt was exactly the same as changing it on the 3.slo. Your runnin coil packs rather than a distributor so you dont have to worry about those unless you really want to replace them which i didn't see any point. I did replace the spark plugs with genuine toyota plugs. I replaced my water pump as well as all the pulleys and tensioners. also on the t100's you do not have to re drill your dipstick to a different location as you have to do if you got a motor from a taco or a 4runner AND if you plan on doing a SAS you do not have to install a rear sump oil pan onto the taco or 4runner motor (the t100 oil pan will clear your hysteer, the taco and 4runner oil pan wont). The t100's wire harness is longer so you dont have any length issues with your wiring harness when it comes to routing the harness into the cab. The wire harness grommet off of the t100 fits perfectly in the factory firewall knockout.

Would you happen to know if your speedometer is electronic (Vehicle Speed Sensor or VSS) or cable driven (mechanical)?

Moto260

Alright i'm sold. can i have a link to your build thread Austin Marr? And where do i buy that Wiring guide/soldering kit? I guess its prolly in your thread.

Moto260

Nevermind its posted right under it. Herp!!!

Austin Marr

My build thread is pretty vague so feel free to ask me questions via PM or on this thread. I'd be glad to answer them for you

ROCKLAND TOYOTA

i just went with a NEW toyota motor and couldnt be happier.....

Austin Marr

Ya if you got the coin more power to ya lol. Wiring diagrams you get from "TIS" google "TIS Toyota" and it will bring up toyota technician website listings. All it is is you pay them $15 and you have access to every toyota shop manual/diagram right down to the VIN number even that specific for you right there. I wouldn't recommend doing that just yet until you know what your "donor" vehicle is and you have all relating components off of the donor (wiring harness, ECU, crossover/down pipe, OBDII plug from the body harness if you want it). While you can mis match components off other rigs, it isn't recommended. Its also recommended that if your trans is automatic to get a donor that is automatic and vise versa with a manual (makes the wiring easier although you can convert the harness but i have no experience doing that. just wait for one that matches your recipient). Tons more information. but that should get you started

Moto260

Will a Trd 3.4l long block bolt right in? I found a good one with 6 month warranty? Thinkin about getting it tomorrow?

Moto260

Also i dont know if my speedometer is electronic or cable driven =/.
you're sayin i'd have to get a tranny as well? mines a manual transmission.

Austin Marr

Yes, any 3.4L will bolt right in. And no you will not need a new transmission. Check on the back of your transfer case if there is a 3-pin connector, if so that is whats called a VSS or vehicle speed sensor. If you've got a cable than you've got a mechanical speed sensor. All this is just thinking ahead on how to get your speedo working once the motor is in.

Does the motor you are looking at come with a harness and ECU? The ECU MUST be 4x4 M/T (if your rig is a 4x4 M/T of course). Does it say what rig the motor came out of?

Moto260

Ok, back of my transfer case on top, i got a screw that i screwed out with a wire in it. I'll post a pic once i get it to my email. But, Im sure that's what i was lookin for. And he said it comes with the wiring harness, i didnt ask about the ECU unit but i will tomorrow. Mine is M/T 4x4. so i'll make sure to get that. If he says its out of a 2wd? Then i gotta look elsewhere right? He said giving him my 3.0 will do fine with the core deposit back.