greatahjeremy

So I finished the install, got all the timing marks lined up, put the distributor in, and fired her up. Ran like new! Smooth, just needed to adjust timing. Then the motor stopped!! I restarted, and it makes a loud noise I have never heard. I pull the distributor and the gear is bone dry. I look into the oil cap, looks dry. Did this motor just freeze? I bought it locally here in Los Angeles from a re-builder and the oil pump was supposed to be new, could it be possible it failed??? Any insights would be very welcome, thanks!!

Jeremy

Built2Grind

did you prime the oil pump? use a good mechanical gauge to ensure your getting pressure?

greatahjeremy

So from what I have read, I pull the plugs and disconnect the EFI fuse and crank until I get pressure? Did I do irreversible damage? I can still spin the crank by hand.

Built2Grind

the way you described is what you use as a last resort. the best way to do it i think is connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and use an old distributor with all the gears ground off and spin it with a drill for a few moments after you get pressure so everything is coated in oil and there are no bubbles in the system. how long did the motor run? if more tan 30 seconds or so you have done irreversible damage to the cams, bearing, etc. how much pressure does it take to turn the motor over by hand without the plugs in?

bugs1961

It sounds like you're thinking about priming the oil pump on a small block Chevy. The distributor on the 3VZ isn't connected to the oil pump at all. The pump is mounted directly on the crank nose and can only be turned when the crank turns, so yes, cranking the engine with the ignition and EFI disabled is the only way to pre-oil the engine before starting. If you don't have an oil pressure gauge, crank the engine for a few seconds after the oil pressure light goes out. Should only take a few seconds to get pressure.

I sure hope you haven't done any damage but if everything up top is dry it's pretty likely.

Sounds like the pump has a problem because you should have had pressure a couple of seconds after the engine started even if you didn't pre-oil it. (You did add oil, right?)

If this was my engine, I'd be pulling the timing belt off and removing the oil pan and oil pump to see what's happening. A bad or missing oil pickup/strainer gasket where the pickup is attached to the pump can cause a vacuum leak that would prevent the oil from being sucked into the strainer.

Pull a valve cover and remove a camshaft bearing cap or two and look for damage. If it's dry and scored under the cap, the crank and connecting rod bearings are also likely damaged.

Good luck and you might get a hold of the guy who put the engine together for a replacement if you have damage.

OutlawMike

At this point you need to find out if you have oil pressure. Pull the plugs, etc, see if you can get a pressure reading. If not, then you need to start talking with the guys who built it. Did it come with the oil pan on it? If not, were you supposed to swap over your oil pickup and pan? Those oil pumps are dirt simple, I doubt the pump itself failed. But something on the pickup side could be causing your problem.

Good luck

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

With all due respect, you have no idea how to prime an oil pump on an OHC motor.

The oil pump is run by the crank, and bolts behind the balancer on the crank. One correct way to prime the pump is to pull the large plug in the top of the pump, and fill it full of oil. Then turn the motor over with the starter (plugs out) until it builds oil pressure.

The motor should have been assembled with assembly lube, so if this step had been taken, it would have been ok.

OP: Did you establish oil pressure BEFORE starting the engine? If not, you voided your warranty and no shop in the country would cover that.