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I am picking up a 1986 Pickup, 4 cylinder 2wd manual today. It has some body rust but very little frame rust and 129,000. picking it up for 1400. The one thing it really does need is new front tires, but it has a new pair of studded snow tires in the back. Thinking of getting snow tires for the front, then trying to find a set of wheels and get nice summer tires in the spring. is that a good idea?
what else can I do to this thing? I will want to fix up some of the body rust, paint the whole thing come spring. I will probably make a front bumper/ small brush guard too, buying one is just too expensive.
any cheap engine mods that make a difference? I know for my KLR motorcycle there are a few really cheap easy mods that do make a difference that most people do right off the bat.
I have access to multiple welders, pipe bender, cnc machine, sandblasters, powdercoating oven, i am even in the process of making a founder, already have the forge and anvil, so I can make pretty much anything I want other than engine/ suspension parts.
I don't really care about looks, I don't really want to lift it and make it an off roader (i had a blazer that I completely destroyed by taking it offroad) so I just want a small truck that will last me for a few hundred thousand miles. That being said, I will absolutely do things to make her look pretty if I can for cheap
Thanks! I am looking forward to actually having a good truck, all my other vehicles in the past other than my bike have been heaping rust bucket POS american trucks. I am looking forward to getting into the Toyota world!
I start with a complete tune up and all fluids changed. Then I start on the suspension as it is most likely neglected. The entire front end can be done reasonably cheap and just replace everything if it is needed. How is the clutch? I installed a Celica 5 speed instead of the 4 speed my truck had in it. If it has the Aisin carburetor on it, get a Weber for it. If it is fuel injected start cleaning all of the sensors and getting the gunk from the EGR cleaned out of it.
Being as old as it is and usually neglected, be prepared to start from one end to the other and getting maintenance caught up and then you get to fix the hack jobs the PO probably left you with.
I start with a complete tune up and all fluids changed. Then I start on the suspension as it is most likely neglected. The entire front end can be done reasonably cheap and just replace everything if it is needed. How is the clutch? I installed a Celica 5 speed instead of the 4 speed my truck had in it. If it has the Aisin carburetor on it, get a Weber for it. If it is fuel injected start cleaning all of the sensors and getting the gunk from the EGR cleaned out of it.
Being as old as it is and usually neglected, be prepared to start from one end to the other and getting maintenance caught up and then you get to fix the hack jobs the PO probably left you with.
What would you do on the suspension? The rear looks relatively simple, the front could be a lot more complicated. What should I do first? What should I replace?
How could I test if my clutch is bad? I think I want to pull the engine, do the timing chain and guards, paint in the engine compartment, and I guess I will just do the clutch at that point even if I don't need to do it. I think it'll cost maybe 80 or 100 bucks. Whats the advantage to the 5 speed celica clutch? Does that actually make it into a 5 speed? Wouldn't you have to change something in the transmission also?
Whats the advantages to getting a different carb? I know for my bike (KLR 650) there is no advantages to putting in a different carb, but I am sure there is for this truck. From what I read about the Weber 32/36 is that it really only improves fuel economy? The 38 seems to be exactly the same, but it will improve power and stuff if I do lots of engine mods in the future?
I seem to have a wiring issue now, I turn the key to start and nothing happens. Doesn't turn over or anything. I pulled it into my shed (all my garage space is taken up with a '47 Ford 9N restoration) but its still too cold to chase loose wires. Its supposed to be down to -11 here in CT this weekend so I'll have to wait to do anything till next week. There's no point in doing anything if i can't even turn it on!
Any advice on that issue? It seems that it is in my steering column, I got a little noise once earlier after I took all the trim off and wiggled things, but that was it. I will take it all apart when it warms up a bit more.
That truck being in the Northeast will most likely have some front end wear worse then most. I would just get everything for the front end. One thing I like about a 2wd is I just pull the motor and transmission all at once and can clean it up, seal it up and look at the clutch while it is out. It sounds like this truck should be considered a project.
I have seen enough of these trucks and due to their age and previous owners, there is several things that are going to need attention. The Aisin carb is going to be worn out on it and a Weber is so much easier to work on. I will post a picture below of my Weber and it cleans up the engine bay and just a couple of vacuum lines.
Does your transmission slip in 4th or 5th gear? If not it is probably still good. I like the 5 speed just for the mileage and a car or truck will work on it. They were about the same for me when I used a Celica. These trucks are not heavy haulers and I used mine for better mileage. I could haul light loads alright.
On my truck build links below, on the first page, I have some fixes listed on these trucks. On the starter issue, I would check the Starter Relay contacts are good and cleaned, all electrical connections are good and clean, replace the contacts and plunger in the starter. That still will not always fix the starter issue as Toyota did a poor job on the wiring. RAD4Runner has a great write up that solved all my issues on the no start issue. A cheap and easy fix and I have never had a no start condition since doing all of the above.
If you are suspecting the Ignition switch, I had to replace one as it had a crack in the plastic. You already have the covers off, turn the ignition switch to the Acc position, there is a button that holds the switch in, push it and pull the assembly out. Then I use a flat blade screw driver and operate the switch and see it will crank.
The key switch can get sloppy and not always make a good contact or if the wiring harness is worn or broken around the contacts. It is easily replaced.
As far as running electrical test on the Ignition Switch to verify things, I am not sure on the Ignition Switch on how to do it. If you can do some electrical checks on it, it would be quicker for you to test it that way but that is not a strong part for me.
Are all of your fuses good? Start with the easy things to check for. Is the starter good?
That truck being in the Northeast will most likely have some front end wear worse then most. I would just get everything for the front end. One thing I like about a 2wd is I just pull the motor and transmission all at once and can clean it up, seal it up and look at the clutch while it is out. It sounds like this truck should be considered a project.
I have seen enough of these trucks and due to their age and previous owners, there is several things that are going to need attention. The Aisin carb is going to be worn out on it and a Weber is so much easier to work on. I will post a picture below of my Weber and it cleans up the engine bay and just a couple of vacuum lines.
Does your transmission slip in 4th or 5th gear? If not it is probably still good. I like the 5 speed just for the mileage and a car or truck will work on it. They were about the same for me when I used a Celica. These trucks are not heavy haulers and I used mine for better mileage. I could haul light loads alright.
On my truck build links below, on the first page, I have some fixes listed on these trucks. On the starter issue, I would check the Starter Relay contacts are good and cleaned, all electrical connections are good and clean, replace the contacts and plunger in the starter. That still will not always fix the starter issue as Toyota did a poor job on the wiring. RAD4Runner has a great write up that solved all my issues on the no start issue. A cheap and easy fix and I have never had a no start condition since doing all of the above.
If you are suspecting the Ignition switch, I had to replace one as it had a crack in the plastic. You already have the covers off, turn the ignition switch to the Acc position, there is a button that holds the switch in, push it and pull the assembly out. Then I use a flat blade screw driver and operate the switch and see it will crank.
The key switch can get sloppy and not always make a good contact or if the wiring harness is worn or broken around the contacts. It is easily replaced.
As far as running electrical test on the Ignition Switch to verify things, I am not sure on the Ignition Switch on how to do it. If you can do some electrical checks on it, it would be quicker for you to test it that way but that is not a strong part for me.
Are all of your fuses good? Start with the easy things to check for. Is the starter good?
So I just spent some time outside in the cold and fiddled with everything I could think to fiddle with. Checked fuses, wiggled wires, tore the ignition switch off the column and everything looked fine. Took a few more covers off and realized that my clutch pedal doesn't hit the button when I push it, so positioned almost upside down, sprawled across the seat with a hand on the clutch, finger on the button and my other hand up on the ignition, it started! So I think thats the only real issue, so I guess I will just bend the tab up that holds that button.
My sister has 2 tires I can use to replace the incredibly dry rotted front tires, so I will try and get those mounted tomorrow.
Other than that, I am not sure what it needs? It seems like suspension is a common idea, but not sure what parts to replace. The Weber carb is a common one too, would that be a good place to start? Which would you go with, it seems from the bit of research I've done there's a 32/36 that improves gas mileage, or a 38 which keeps the same mileage but will help down the road if I decide to do certain engine mods. If that's the case, I would probably go with the 32/36. Where would you order one? I found one on LCEperformance, is it really worth 350 bucks?
oh I found the kit on weber carb direct for 229 free shipping. that sounds more reasonable. I also just saw that it requires an electric fuel pump? if that's true, is that worth it? I like how my truck doesn't have any sort of power or electrical systems.
AND...You mean you see, hear, feel nothing at all?
Also we are thousands of miles away from you. It would help if we could see what you have in front of you. Why not post pics. Either we see pics or you really don't have a Yota and you're just testing us - LOL!
For example does the truck have a starter relay?
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-16-2016 at 12:31 PM.
IF i were you and it has sat for so long, i would completely change all the fluids, Oil, antifreeze, brake fluid, clutch fluids. Brake and Clutch would both prolly be black and nasty looking from the water it has ingested.
So I have decided to start with the front suspension, it has the most rust of any part of the truck. I will be ordering shocks, upper and lower ball joints, and upper control arms (the left side has a hole rusted through), and every suspension bushing rockauto has to offer. I think that most of the other parts can be removed and cleaned up, painted and put back on. I might have to do tie rods, but I'll wait and see on those. Any other suggestions for my suspension?
Once it warms up a bit I'll do all my fluids too.
Any suggestions on which fluids to use? On all my trucks in the past I've just used whatever cheap stuff I can find, but I'd like to go quality for this truck.
Hello!
... I think that most of the other parts can be removed and cleaned up, painted and put back on. I might have to do tie rods, but I'll wait and see on those. Any other suggestions for my suspension?
...cheap stuff I can find, but I'd like to go quality for this truck.
If budget is a concern, Look at FSM for how to check if any art needs replacement. i.e., do your ball-joint have any play? Many people replace ball-joints, and I actually bought slightly-used ones from fellow members. However, upon inspection my ball-joints are not broken so I did not fix them.
Check tie-rod ends for play, also idler arms - I had to replace that on mine.
There have been reports of ball-joints failing but many are from 3RD GEN [EDITED: NOT 2nd-gen 4runners] where the lower ball-joints/knuckle assembly is poorly designed and BJ's are subject to tension, not compression. Not sure if that had been corrected.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-21-2016 at 08:04 PM.
I would check wheel bearings while in there. Check the brakes and rotors. I found it cheaper to buy new rotors instead of having my old ones turned at the machine shop last time I did mine.
So I started pulling my suspension apart and learned a few things, my control arms are really, really rusty. And pretty much all the rubber is cracked and falling apart. My shock is so rusty at the top I will have to cut the bolt off. I ordered both control arms, both ball joints, bushings for control arms, stabilizer bar, strut rods from rock auto, and NAPA will have the shocks and tie rods. So for 450ish I'll have pretty much entirely new suspension in the front. The front brakes look rusty but have plenty of life left, but I do new brake lines (the rubber hoses that connect to the caliper at least) so I'll do at some point too. I think I will actually take my calipers all apart and clean them up and paint them too, I did that with my bike in the spring and it looks way better.
Anything else you'd recommend?
Has anyone actually removed their control arms? The lower one looks complicated with the torsion bar, I have my truck stupidly pulled into my shed and have very little room to work so that won't make it easier, but I'll manage I suppose. Any advice anyone could provide would be great, the Haynes manual seems to provide less detail in removing the torsion bar than I'd like.
There have been reports of ball-joints failing but many are from 2nd-gen 4runners where the lower ball-joints/knuckle assembly is poorly designed and BJ's are subject to tension, not compression. Not sure if that had been corrected.
Just fyi, 3rd gen issue you quoted here, not any other gen to my knowledge
..here have been reports of ball-joints failing but many are from 2nd-gen 4runners where the lower ball-joints/knuckle assembly is poorly designed and BJ's are subject to tension..
Originally Posted by amalik
Just fyi, 3rd gen issue you quoted here, not any other gen to my knowledge
OOPS!!! you're correct. Sorry, guys, I meant 3rd gen, not second Gen 4Runners. Edited original post above... Thanks for the good catch.
Looks like the rusty parts are what gets replaced anyways for normal maintenance other then the control arms. I have seen many trucks with the original shocks on them and in about as bad of shape as what you are showing. Looks like for the most part you are just dealing with the normal things that get neglected.
02-09-2016, 05:14 AM
