hexrain

I changed my timing chain to try and remedy a strange noise I'm having in 4th & 5th upon acceleration. This didn't fix the noise but that is an issue that I am trying to figure out in a different thread. I did not remove head. I believe I avoided scraping the head gasket when installing the TC. The only thing that went wrong was that I bought a cheap large torque wrench and it decided not to click when I tightened the hidden TC bolt that sits under the cam gear. It snapped right at the part of the bolt that becomes more narrow.

I want to try and easy out the bolt through the head. I think the bit might have enough length to reach the bolt through the head. Does anyone have any tips on performing this sensitive operation? For instance what is the best way to clear the metal filings from the hole and keep them out of the head? Is there something I could do besides pulling the head to get this out if the bit doesn't reach? Thanks everyone!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Why would you do any more then snug that bolt.

The only bolts I torque are the Mains Rods and Head bolts.

I think you have a big mess .

I doubt very much if You can get that out with out pulling the head .

I have never had any luck with a easy out except breaking them.

You can try with the head on have your nurse apply suction with a vacuum while drilling

osv

what i do is drill a small pilot hole in the bolt, then use a bigger bit that has left-hand threads, in a drill that is turning at very slow speeds.

the left-hand bit will catch on the edge of the pilot hole, and if you are lucky, it'll unscrew the bolt.

i think that harbor freight has left-hand bits?? i don't know if they are long enough for this.

millball

Left hand drills are the ticket, but nobody in their right mind would trust a scrap metal Chinese one.

Any machine tool supply house will have real High Speed Steel American made ones.
Probably available in lengths of 12 inches, or more, if you are willing to pay the price.

Don't make a bad situation worse by using inferior tools that aren't up to the task.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-drill-bits/=xsn28o

osv

nobody in their right mind would trust scrap metal american drill bits, real machinists use german guhring drill bits.

there is nothing to "trust" in this situation, the left-hand bit isn't even drilling a hole... it's just used for catching the edge of the pilot hole.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Your talking a M 8 Bolt which means not a really big bit.

I don`t care how good of a bit it might be things still break with bits that small.

Then attempting to drill a straight hole by hand.

I know I can`t .

Best of luck in any case!!!

osv

the broken bolt should be marked with a center punch before drilling.

i just did this twice with two m6 bolts that hold the locking hub dial to the locking hub body, on my 4x4 front axle... didn't use a center punch, left the locking hub face on.

first i tried drilling the pilot hole with the smallest 15/64th bit in my harbor freight left-hand drill bit set, and it wouldn't cut, then finally broke... junk like millball says.

i then used a chinese right-hand 15/64 bit, and it cut the hole fairly well.

i went to a bigger left-hand drill bit, chinese-made again, irwin brand, that came with the easyout... it unscrewed the broken bolts perfectly.

millball

I don't trust it not to break off for no reason, because to make the cheap alloy cut, they had to make it too brittle.

A Starrett, or Browne & Sharpe bit is as good as any other makers.

We went to the moon on stuff made with just such tooling.

Our German engineers were just a tad sharper than the Russians' German engineers tho...........

osv

"You may own more Chinese tools than you think. A lot of the US and European tools are now made in China.

I bought a Brown & Sharpe "Ultra Precision" 1-2-3 block set, for example, that just happens to look identical to my Chinese set that cost 1/4 the price, even down to the silly untapped 3/8" "lightening holes." The accuracy specs are identical, and they measure out nearly identical.

Boy do I feel dumb for paying $60 for a pair of "Brown & Sharpe" 1-2-3 blocks that were probably made on the same factory line as the $20 pair I got from Enco.

Similarly, as we discussed in the Starrett thread, there are persistent stories of Starrett tools being at least partially manufactured in China."
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...nt/index3.html

millball

I guess I'm behind the times. A sad state of affairs, but no worries for me personally.

I don't own any precision tools that aren't at least 40 or 50 years old.

Never handled by any but expert craftsmen, and good as when new.

I never buy a new tool when I have the time to find a first quality used one.

Torque tools calibrated periodicly, of course.

I have several hundred pounds of B&S made #2 and #3 Morse taper shank drills from 1/8 inch to over 2 inches that date to the 1920s and '30s, so no doubts about their country of origin.

I wonder what surface and interior hardness testing of your block sets would show.

hexrain

well thanks for the response. that is pretty much what i thought needed to be done. boy i hope i dont have to pull the head....