DupermanDave

So I just got the new slave cylinder in. The old one was leaking fluid and it was getting built up in the rubber boot. I got everything put together, and now I'm at the bleeding process. The bleeder is closed - I pump the clutch 7 times - and then open the bleeder (with the rubber hose coming out and into a jar of brake fluid.) I close it again and repeat. The pedal is still mushy and won't firm up, and there's absolutely no fluid squirting out of the thing. So I opened the bleeder and just pumped the clutch - still no fluid. I need some help. What's going on?

bxlt

IIRC you need to have the pedal pushed in when you release the bleeder

854runner4x4

yah its a two person job.... one pumps the other bleeds

DupermanDave

Bleh. The chilton book I have says otherwise, and I don't know if I trust it. I'll go out and try it again.

Travisfab

pump, pump, pump, pump, quick open & close, repeat. When I say quick, I mean like a half second. Put a hose on it and make your life simpler/cleaner

DupermanDave

I've been trying that for about 10 minutes now, and about 3 cycles. The pedal doesn't feel any different. Still floppy. I've still been doing it on my own until my dad can help, but I've managed to wedge the pedal to the floor while I go and open/close the valve.

Travisfab

You need to do it like 15 times with someone else pumping. Your master cylinder may need to be replaced too.

firemaniac

Last time I did mine I vacuum bled it using this vacuum bleeder just make sure the master cylinder doesn't run out of fluid, or you will be doing it again.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You need someone to pump and hold while you do the bleeder.

firemaniac

That used to be my job before I got tall enough to actually drive, I still remember the chant, push, release, push, release, push, hold it, release, ok pump it...

DupermanDave

So even with the hose coming out and into a jar filled with brake fluid, I should still be opening and closing the valve? I'm seeing 2 methods to do this, and neither is working. I tried this method to start. After about an hour it isn't changing anything. Now I'm pumping the pedal a few times (with the valve closed) leave the pedal to the floor and then I quickly open the valve and close it again, and then I pump the pedal some more (with the valve closed) and then with the pedal pushed in again I open the valve quickly and then close it again. Still getting nothing from the pedal and nothing coming out of the drain valve.

I really should have replaced the master cylinder at the same time, but the slave was all I saw leaking and money is really tight right now.

snobdds

Patience and perseverance are your friends! But, man you have to be close.

DupermanDave

We finally got it done. Pushed the truck up the driveway and intro the garage and got it bled. Flushed the old stuff out and put completely new fluid in. Works great now. thanks for the advice everyone.

misaaccooper

What method is best?
1. Single pedal depress. Vent slave.
2. Pump pedal multiple times. Vent slave.

When gravity bleeding w/ the slave open, should the hose and jar system be attached or not?

Can anyone verify holding the slave compressed by hand with the screw open; then depressing the pedal as a final step?

bmcghie

I used the 2nd and 3rd methods listed above.

My clutch was dry, to replace some disgustingly silty fluid... and I ended up removing the bleed screw entirely and letting gravity fill the system partially. I then reinstalled the screw, open, with a hose attached to a jar of clean brake fluid. Pump the pedal 5 or so times, refill the master cylinder, pump more... for a total of about 40 pumps. Then I went underneath and manually pumped the slave cylinder, and closed the bleed valve.

Clutch works great since! This also allows you to change out a rusted solid bleed screw.

TNRabbit

That SHOULD work. Stupid question: the reservoir IS full, correct? ;-)

As an alternative, I purchased a vacuum bleeder & it works FANTASTICALLY with only one person required. Highly recommended, but buy a good (not plastic) one.

misaaccooper

Just an update.

I wound up gravity bleeding the system with the hose and jar attached.
Topped off the fluid, bleed it a few times with single pumps. Dialed right in.

Now my other problem. I swapped out the brake master, calipers, and hub/rotors with a 95 V6 2wd. Brakes are terrible after a couple bleed cycles including the LSVP as the last step.

I am getting a ton of flex on the firewall. I am wondering if my pedal bracket is cracked like i've seen on here.

1986 hilux dlx

what wrench size should I use for the bleed line, I can’t seem to find one raft fits and I don’t want to buy a new wrench set, I’d rather buy the Individual wrench

2ToyGuy

I can't recall for sure, but I THINK (very seldom, but every once in a while I do think) it's a 10 mm wrench. If not, it's 8 mm, but I'm pretty sure it's a 10 mm. I use a combination wrench, and I use the box end of it. It seems to work better than the open end of it.

Does that help?
Pat☺

COMTB

Agreed -- 10mm iirc. Recommend going and picking up one of those combo line wrenches from your local hardware/auto parts stores that 10mm on one end and 12mm on the other. Has been very handy for this and bleeding brakes.