ghostgxz

My dad has a 93 4runner with the 3.0, it recently started having this issue where it wont rev over about 3500 rpm in neutral or in gear, also it completely falls on its face after the gas pedal is pushed more than about 20% of the way down, ive searched and searched and i checked the codes, the check engine light just blinks constantly and the o/d off blinks 6 times , then a pause and then 4 times, i havent been able to find out what the o/d off codes mean

I cant even begin to describe how frustrated i am with this, thanks in advance to any who can help

fride115

im not familiar with the 3.0 and im not a mechanic but i have read a lot of forums and i recall a few of them with simmilar problems and the problem was the fuel pressure regulator, that may not be the right terms for it but should be close.

ghostgxz

Ok, my dad took it to a shop and they said the fuel pressure was fine, ill do some searching on the fuel regulator, thanks

fride115

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-3vze-187741/

seems like a lot of good info on the 3.0 i just skimmed it, look at the vafm part too

sickyota92

I know this won't be helpful at all, but I have had the same problem with my 1992 Pickup for quite a while now. My truck has the automatic with overdrive and I don't receive any Check engine lights, my over drive just blinks while I'm driving. I'll try to put my truck in D and 2 and it won't go anywhere more than 5mph than after a while it'll catch on, but L works from a complete stop, then I have to shift to 2 then to D. All this is intermittent too, sometimes from a complete stop and I'm in D it'll just act normal.

Once again sorry for the not so helpful reply but I figured I should chime in since I'm having the same problem.

ghostgxz

Thats cool, i found this page that seems to have sorta answered my questions, and maybe it will help you too



http://www.toyotaholics.com/support/...sp?TOPIC_ID=19

It lists what the od off light codes mean

Team420

From the fsm....

at trouble code 64

Severed lock–up solenoid or short circuit –
severed wire harness or short circuit

bone collector

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

read thru this. it will help

sickyota92

all y'all rock! I guess I just really stink at searching for what's going on.

ghostgxz

Hey thanks for the replies, it recently had a new dist. Cap , new wires and plugs new fuel filter, fuel pressure was checked and is good, the hesitation/wont go over 3000 rpm floored in neutral happened before all the above mentioned things and still does it, i checked the codes and the o/d off light shows code 64 which is lockup solenoid. And the check engine light shows code 14 which is either an open or short between the igniter and ecm, or the ecm or igniter is bad, my dads friend supposedly has a spare igniter, so i will know in the next few hours how that worked out, and will let you know what happens

Gamefreakgc

Also check the VAFM with a multi-meter per the FSM. A short or measurement out of range means the VAFM stops measuring the air flow, then shuts off fuel because it thinks there's no air.

ghostgxz

update

tried a known good igniter, no difference still wont rev over 3000 in neutral, tried a new coil, still same thing

so i looked at the troubleshooting chart from the fsm (page eg-195), and the first step says

step 1
"there is no voltage between ecm terminals IGT and E1 (idling)"

well i put a mutlimeter to the terminals and got between .7 - .9 volts volts, which in the ecm diagnostic part of the fsm is in the range of .7 - 1.0

step 2 "check that there is voltage between ecm terminal IGT and body ground (idling)"

got 0.85 volts (and the engine was idling for these two steps, and the next one too, although it doesnt have the (idling) in step 3)

step 3
"check wiring between ecm teminal e1 and body ground"

well for the step 3 diagram, it shows a multimeter set to ohms with the leads going to e1 and ground, well the meter showed no difference than if the leads werent touching anything, which leads me to believe the computer is bad, so tomorrow my dad will go by the junkyard or get a computer off ebay and see what happens

munchrow

or take it to another shop to further get nothing done.

Team420

Dont buy a new ecm yet.... sounds like you just hhave a bad ground... Ecm terminal e1 is ground...

check all grounds, follow ecm terminal e1 to the ground, which is likely on the pass side of te block, if everything checks out, then... try another ecm. Pretty rare an ecm foes bad, although it has happened....

ghostgxz

We havent gotten a different computer yet, and i made a different thread and someone helped me find where the ecm ground attaches, and it attaches to the top of the rear of the passenger side head, i am waiting for it to cool off right now, then i will remove it,and clean the mating surfaces and re-attach it and see if it makes a difference

Also, i know this seems lazy of me to ask this , but is the ground that attaches to the firewall and intake manifold the only ground connecting the engine to the body?

ghostgxz

Lol thats exactly what my dad did, he took it to the toyota dealer and $56 dollars later they tell him they think the cats plugged, they didnt even drop it to check it, it doesnt matter tho because before we came to the conclusion its the ecm, we checked the cat and its fine

Team420

Go a step farther and test that wire for continuity. Open or a really high resistance would indicate a bad ground wire...

By really high resistance I mean 20k+ ohms

But... even if it's 10-15k ohms, Id replace it... Thiis would of course be after cleaning mating surfaces....

ghostgxz

Well i couldnt get back in there to remove the screw, i would have to remove the top of the intake manifold to be able to get to it

Team420

u dont hhave to remove te screw to check continuity....

could save hours of diagnostic time,,,,

ghostgxz

Right, in the service manual for diagnosing a code 14 on page eg-195, there are three steps to determine if the ecm is bad, and on the 3rd step you put one lead of the multimeter into the back of the e1 connector, and the other lead to body ground, in which i touched it to the pin switch and the multimeter didnt show the slightest bit of resistance, if you have a mulimeter, set it to the 200 ohm setting then touch the leads together, notice how the numbers slowly drop to almost nothing, then if you seperate them they show a zero reading, well when i tested from e1 to the ground of the pin switch i got the zero reading