swilson33

Hello all,
I am new to the forums, just registered about 2 minutes ago but have been lurking for about 6 months because I bought a 1993 4x4 ext cab V6 (3zve) SR5 pickup at about that time. I bought it with engine problems and 246,000 miles so I knew it probably needed a new engine but otherwise was in good shape.
Anyway, despite my limited mechanical ability I decided to buy a remanufactured engine and replace the engine myself. I maintain a golf course so I office out of a shop with a vehicle lift, all tools, and a mechanic with some auto skills who was willing to lend some time. Getting right along with the story I did as much research as I could into where to buy a 3zve that was reasonable and seemed reputable. I bought the reman from Oregon Engine Rebuilders.
Anyway, I have gotten it in (took a little more time than I thought and never would have happened without these forums) and spent about twice as much as the engine now replacing all kinds of other things I never intended to (Marlin Clutch, radiator, alternator, etc, etc) but I just can't get it to run quite right.
Here is the situation...the engine now has about 2 hrs and 15 miles on it and it runs decent but not real good and it smokes (white) out the tailpipe, especially on startup. I took it to a reputable local independent repair shop because I was stumped and they are too. It is not throwing any codes, just idling a little too fast, the white smoke I mentioned, and a little hiccup of a backfire out the tailpipe on idle. I did replace the oxygen sensor when I put the new engine in and also put in a new aftermarket (Flowmaster) catalytic converter at the suggestion of the guys at Oregon Engines. Too get it to run at all I did have to leave one vacuum hose disconnected...it was one that went to something called the "Idle Up Valve" I believe. I think the shop solved that problem but it still runs the same. The mechanics next suggestions are to put the original catalytic converter back in (they are thinking the aftermarket one may be messing something up), and if that doesn't work try a different ECM (at a cost of $400 used). Otherwise they are kind of stumped since it isn't throwing any codes. Obviously another possibility is the smoke is coming from a problem with the reman engine but for now I am assuming this is not the problem since OER seems to have a good reputation on this site.

Sorry for the book. Please ask me any questions regarding more information that may help solve my problems. Thanks in advance for any ideas...I was looking forward to having a cool second vehicle (my dd is a 08 Tundra) out of this but I am about tapped out on dropping money into it.

Steve

Cyberman

I wouldn't rule out having to possibly get something else to fix it, but did you double (even triple) check that everything was connected properly? In particular, all the vacuum hoses, the throttle body, and the fuel lines, the distributor, etc..

swilson33

Cyberman,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I went back through the vacuum lines several times and also marked them pretty well when removing and replacing the engine. I don't think it is the fuel system either as I went through that thoroughly right after engine installation b/c I wasn't getting enough fuel and would up having a pin hole leak in the fuel pump hanger as it was coming out of the tank.

Anyone think (or had any experience) with the aftermarket catalytic converter causing the problem? Thanks again,

Steve

swilson33

Oh yeah...also pretty sure it is not the distributor as I was having trouble there as well and replaced the cap and rotor.
I wish it was throwing a code...it would make this a lot easier!!!

DJ99

I don't see why an aftermarket cat would be your problem. Most likely something about the engine or controls. Have you compared your vacuum hoses with the diagram? It's real easy to mess them up. Also have you bench tested the 3 VSV's on the passenger side to make sure they actually work properly? There is a test in the factory manual on how to check the EGR valve and modulator. Have you checked the TPS settings and VAFM? Some of these things can fail without a code.

BTW, where are you?

yota_mota

I bought a reman 3.0 longblock from a not so reputable company put it together with almost nothing but parts from the old engine (242k miles at the pull) and it literally started up like I just drove it the day before. But dont give up.... I hate to say it though but white smoke (especially if it dissipates rapidly) is a sign of water intrusion some how. Unless the smoke has a somewhat blueish tint to it than that would be oil burning. Sorry to those who I've stated the obvious but let's rule out the basics first. My engine hasn't missed a lick though, but I've had to replace various components around it over time. sometimes if your in a wet enough climate there may be some condensation that builds up in the exhaust system and burns on startup (hence the white smoke). As far as the idle thing goes I'd say check the basics like cable adjustment and your idle circuits functions. Good luck man let know how it goes.

nobrainsd

Unless the catalytic converter was full of water the white smoke isn't due to it. Sure sounds like a water leak. A slight leak in the HG or the intake manifold gasket will give you the symptoms you have. The water collects a little after the engine is off, which gives you the larger amount of smoke on start up. If the white smoke doesn't stop then you have an issue for sure. Even a system that has been flooded by a HG blow out will slow down and stop smoking after the system dries out. Can you smell radiator fluid if you stick your fingers in the white exhaust? Time to check compression and the condition of the plugs.

swilson33

Thanks guys for the help. I will check some of the things mentioned. As for the white smoke it is pretty much at startup. I had someone following me as I drove it about 7 miles to the mechanic the other day and they said it went away. I too am concerned that it is white and could be water intrusion somewhere, but am still hoping that is not the case having bought it from OER. They seemed to have real good feedback on Ebay and seemed very knowledgeable. I suppose it could be the intake manifold but that installation seemed pretty straightforward so I would hope I didn't mess it up. I am in the Kansas City area where it is pretty humid this time of year but certainly not tropical.
I will check all vacuum lines again, and also the VSV as mentioned in one of the posts. Hopefully I can figure it out. I was hoping dropping $3000 into this thing that it would start right back up and run like a top.
I will keep any new developments posted. Thanks,
Steve

mick cassidy

FIRST OFF you must determine what this white smoke is , is it steam? hold you hand in front of it if it seems to get wet its steam , steam = water now let me ask you who is this shop who sold you this eng? it could be a used engine from anywhere and as you know these 3vze motors are the worst for blown head gaskets , run it and look at your rad water level , a catlytic converter will not cause smoke it simply burns un burned fuel it gets super hot and has like a filter inside it ,

you o2 sensor will set off a code if you run coolant in the radiator if it is actually leaking coolant into a cylinder your o2 sensor will be bone white in color ,
check your timing there is a tool made by mac or snap on that uses compressed air and it pressurizes the coolant system and with the engine cold you will be able to listen with the other part of the tool that you stick into the sparl plug hole to see if your leak is there , but my suspicion is a coolant leak in this engine you bought ...

yotabiff

You might try adjusting the TPS for the fast idle,you need that so you can time it correctly,the smoke or vapor at start up if just at start up could be nothing to worry about if it goes away after warm-up,keep an eye on your oil for any contamination,ya the idle has to be with-in specs to get it timed right,read the Fsm,you can find it on this forum

swilson33

Thanks again for the help guys. Mick, the engine was not used but rather remanufactured. I bought it from Oregon Engine Rebuilders (www.oregonengines.net). I found them by searching this forum.

I will look into many of the things you guys mentioned. It seems to me that the white smoke and the engine not running smoothly (fast idle, small backfires or misfires) may well be unrelated. What is your thoughts on that.

Anyway, I will get the truck back from the shop, read more of the FSM and let you know what I figure out (or don't). Thanks again for all the help.

Steve

swilson33

I wanted to report the outcome. The good news is that I got it fixed and the reman engine is running like a top!

The fast idle and running issue was a vacuum problem. I had a couple of vacuum lines connected in the wrong places so the EGR was pulling vacuum when it shouldn't have been and not pulling vacuum when it should have been.

Unfortunately even when I got this figured out I still had a lot of smoke. I couldn't figure this out at all, so I broke down and took it to the Toyota dealership. The tech diagnosed it. The problem was the "idle up valve" that threads into the bottom of the power steering pump was bad and it was leaking power steering fluid into the vacuum lines that attached to the valve. One of the vacuum lines was taking the power steering fluid into the intake and it was being burned off and exiting through the tailpipe. I ordered the part ($117) and installed it in 5 minutes...problem fixed. The painful part was paying the dealership to diagnose it but again the good news is that it is running good now.

Now on to the A/C system, front end, and eventually some body work!!! Thanks for all the help guys.

Steve

nobrainsd

Thank you for posting the follow up. That idle up valve leaking power steering fluid into the vacuum tube is definitely not something I would have thought to look at. Was there fluid in the vacuum lines when removed or any other obvious sign? It can be really hard to find leaks like that if they aren't pronounced. Any particular smell to power steering fluid at the exhaust and did it suck enough fluid to have your power steering fluid level drop or was it just minute amounts? Always something new to learn.

zlathim

Thanks for posting the follow up to your problem. I like a happy ending.

GA22RE

Man it is great to see a follow-up on a problem. This way we can all pick-up a tip or two. Thanks.

swilson33

The Toyota tech found the problem so I am not sure how much fluid he found in the lines. I had not driven the truck very much since it wasn't running right, but I had to add fluid to the power steering resevoir each time I drove it. I was stupid and just thought it was still working air out of the lines and taking fluid since I had it all disconnected when replacing the engine. I should have thought something was up when I had to add fluid (because the pump would start making noise and it would get hard to turn) 4 or 5 times. The nice thing was that although it was a couple hundred bucks labor to the dealer to diagnose and $117 for the part, it literally took 5 minutes to install it is running great now. To answer another question, the exhaust smoke was whitish (even though it was red ATF it was burning) and didn't really have any odor. I am pretty certain I NEVER would have figured that problem myself!!
Steve