newto22re

Hi all...
I bought my first yota a few weeks ago. I searched high and low for about 6 mo and finally found one that was worth buying. It's an 87 5 speed with the 22re short bed base model. The guy I bought it from had taken the good parts off of a long bed that had a bad frame and put them on this one. For some reason he took the fuel tank from the long bed and put it in the bed of mine. It started fine and test drove fine. On the way home (about 150 miles) it got poor gas mileage and didn't have the power or acceleration expected. The next morning I came out to a puddle of oil and gasoline under it. Luckily it was just a gas leak. The hose coming out the bottom of the charcoal filter is spewing fuel. I'm thinking he may have mixed up the lines when he put the bigger tank in the bed? Any suggestions?
The starting problem started about a week ago. I changed out the thermostat and added the coolant that was lost during the change. When I got back in it it wouldn't start - no click, no noise, nothing. I beat on the starter while someone else started it and it fired right up. So I replaced the starter. Once the new starter was in the truck still has the same symptoms - no click, no noise, no start. I tested the solenoid and it's still good. I'm wondering if it's the Solenoid resister? (The part next to the starter relay)

I'm really just hoping that you have some trouble shooting ideas. I really don't want to dump a ridiculous amount of money into this truck just to get it running. I paid more for it because it was supposed to be ready to run and be a DD.

FYI: I am a female. I have a fair knowledge of mechanics but I'm just getting my feet wet lol. So please, don't treat me like a stupid girl like so many people have before but keep in mind that I'm new to this. It's much appreciated.

THANK YOU!!!

newto22re

Hi all...
I bought my first yota a few weeks ago. I searched high and low for about 6 mo and finally found one that was worth buying. It's an 87 5 speed with the 22re short bed base model. The guy I bought it from had taken the good parts off of a long bed that had a bad frame and put them on this one. For some reason he took the fuel tank from the long bed and put it in the bed of mine. It started fine and test drove fine. On the way home (about 150 miles) it got poor gas mileage and didn't have the power or acceleration expected. The next morning I came out to a puddle of oil and gasoline under it. Luckily it was just a gas leak. Turns out it was leaking SO much fuel that it cleaned all the old oil and gunk of that side of the engine. The hose coming out the bottom of the charcoal filter is spewing fuel. I'm thinking he may have mixed up the lines when he put the bigger tank in the bed? Any suggestions?
The starting problem started about a week ago. I changed out the thermostat and added the coolant that was lost during the change. When I got back in it it wouldn't start - no click, no noise, nothing. I beat on the starter while someone else started it and it fired right up. So I replaced the starter. Once the new starter was in the truck still has the same symptoms - no click, no noise, no start. I tested the solenoid and it's still good. I'm wondering if it's the Solenoid resister? (The part next to the starter relay)

I'm really just hoping that you have some trouble shooting ideas. I really don't want to dump a ridiculous amount of money into this truck just to get it running. I paid more for it because it was supposed to be ready to run and be a DD.

FYI: I am a female. I have a fair knowledge of mechanics but I'm just getting my feet wet lol. So please, don't treat me like a stupid girl like so many people have before but keep in mind that I'm new to this. It's much appreciated.

THANK YOU!!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like you have a bad ground or maybe just bad battery terminals .

look at the overall condition of the battery cables.

It is possible when installing the thermostat you might have bumped something .

There is no solenoid resistor you may be looking at the resistor for the injectors enclosed in a heat sink.

Anyone can be stupid being a girl does not matter.

Being willing to learn is the important part.

newto22re

Thanks for your response. I am more than willing to learn! and you're right dumb comes in many forms lol.

I'm going to get out and tinker with it tomorrow. I can provide more pictures tomorrow night. I plan on yanking all the starting parts and taking them in to be tested, including the new starter. I'll be sure to check the battery cables then. I can tell you off the top of my head that there is no corrosion on the battery and the terminals look good. I'll learn more tomorrow though.

As far as the 'solenoid resister' i was referring to...





So what I was referring to is in the picture directly to the left of what is labeled as the starter relay. I took it to the toyota dealership and they looked up the VIN (its the original part so wouldn't surprise me if it was bad after 27 years...) and said it was the solenoid resister - $210 just for the part.

Also in the picture is the charcoal fuel filter I was talking about. Kind of to the right of the starter relay. I'm losing massive amounts of fuel from the bottom of that guy. The hose leads no where but I've read that it's supposed to just sit into the frame, so I'm assuming the guy that had it before me messed something up when he swapped the fuel tanks.

Heres a pic of the truck...


Thanks for your help!!

newto22re

I'm going to get out and tinker with it tomorrow. I can provide more pictures tomorrow night. I plan on yanking all the starting parts and taking them in to be tested, including the new starter. I'll be sure to check the battery cables then. I can tell you off the top of my head that there is no corrosion on the battery and the terminals look good. I'll learn more tomorrow though.

As far as the 'solenoid resister' i was referring to...





So what I was referring to is in the picture directly to the left of what is labeled as the starter relay. I took it to the toyota dealership and they looked up the VIN (its the original part so wouldn't surprise me if it was bad after 27 years...) and said it was the solenoid resister - $210 just for the part.

Also in the picture is the charcoal fuel filter I was talking about. Kind of to the right of the starter relay. I'm losing massive amounts of fuel from the bottom of that guy. The hose leads no where but I've read that it's supposed to just sit into the frame, so I'm assuming the guy that had it before me messed something up when he swapped the fuel tanks.

Heres a pic of the truck...


Thanks for your help!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Toyota has some strange names for things what your looking at could very well be called a solenoid resistor by them.

It is in fact in the injector circuit and if you have a multimeter quite easy to check.

For your no start condition you might want to check if you have a poor connection on the wire going to the starter solenoid .

The fact you got it started with the beating on the starter.

Then with the poor quality of most reman parts these days the starter could have failed all ready.

Old age and if your in the great salt belt things corrode plastic gets brittle.

Nice looking truck !!

when first bought these trucks can take some work because of neglect and abuse once all up to speed they are great trucks.

Crazy_Guy97

So it was leaking from the full filter oh and nice rig

newto22re

It's leaking from the charcoal canister. Spewing straight out the hose from the bottom.
Thanks! I was stoked to find it but I'll be even happier when it's running!

Crazy_Guy97

Could you replace the charcoal canister and hose?

newto22re

Ok... I took the battery and new starter to be tested and both are good. The multimeter is giving me a reading of 12.46amps for the battery and 12.46 going to the starter. Same read for the ignition. I wiped down both grounds and re - grounded the one from the battery to the frame for a tighter fit. Still nothing. I'm starting to get frustrated and would hate to see the bill toyota would write if I took it to them to have them figure it out!! Any more suggestions?

newto22re

I'm in the Midwest so we've got plenty of corrosion and rust issues here! Lol. It's a beautiful truck, I'd just like it much more if I could drive it!! I was really hoping I could spend money doing the fun stuff to it. But I suppose I did want to learn on it and oh boy am I! Still, thanks ;D

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like your fuel lines are crossed. Yours has one of the fuel lines on the firewall and one on the inner fender. The other way I have seen them is two lines on the inner fender, and I cant remember which is the vapor line and which is the return line.

The larger line at the back of the fuel rail needs to connect to the return line to the tank. The smaller line is a vacuum line.

The line at the bottom of the canister just hangs down and it flowing fuel makes me suspect they have the return line on the canister.

Here in the Midwest, we do have issues with rust and I see a lot of rust build up in the fuel pump assembly and clog the return lines as well. Might want to check and see if you have cleared back to the tank. On my 4Runner builds below, I tried to post a lot of info and links to how I fixed things that might help you out. Welcome to Yotatech.

One issue is the Starter Relay contacts get corroded. You can take the cover off and with a small piece of sandpaper, just do a quick touch up on the relay contacts.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The charcoal canister exist for emissions purposes. It is vented to the fuel tank to eat evaporative emissions. If there is fuel in the canister, there is not an immediate need to replace it. You have to find the source/cause of the excessive fuel and fix that, and then the charcoal canister should eventually dry out and be fine.

OP, I have been thinking on your problem, and I'm trying to find some fuel system hose routing diagrams, in order to see what should routed where.

And for the starting issue, an FSM and a wiring diagram would be a start, to help trace wires, and finding values for the resistors and solenoids at certain times. (Key on-engine off, key on-engine on, etc...)

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

When the PO put in the larger tank its likely a line got hooked up wrong. But is it possible that the PO put a bigger fuel pump on and it just way too much pressure. Just guessing.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Possible that the return is tapped into the evap/vent line? There is probably only 3 fittings on the tank, supply/return/vent. Supply TO the injector rail (usually the largest diameter of the lines), return FROM the rail which continues to the tank, and vent off top of tank to charcoal canister... These are my guesses, since I can't find hose routing diagram.

newto22re

Thanks very much. I'LL have another chance to fiddle with it on Friday. Hopefully i can see where the lines are going then.

I'm trying to find a used solenoid resister. I'm not sure if I was measuring the amperage wrong but I wasn't getting a reading from it. So I figured before I drop the 230 on a new one I'd try a used one to see if that actually is my starting problem. Only issue is that none of the junk yards around me have one. Do you know of a good junk yard or parts website that will ship?

newto22re

Oh and rokblok... I got a Bentley service manual for it. The electrical diagram spreads over 5 pages and I have to admit I'm in over my head. Electrical is not my forte! Is there a FSM that would be more useful?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I find the Factory (Toyota) manuals suit me the best. But they may be difficult to find. Search on this and other forums for downloadable copies. Google/Bing is your friend...

newto22re

I have this posted in another section and forgot to share this about the starting/electrical issue after someone suggested it was wiring:

Ok... I took the battery and new starter to be tested and both are good. The multimeter is giving me a reading of 12.46amps for the battery and 12.46 going to the starter. Same read for the ignition. I wiped down both grounds and re - grounded the one from the battery to the frame for a tighter fit. Still nothing. I'm starting to get frustrated and would hate to see the bill toyota would write if I took it to them to have them figure it out! Any more suggestions?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

12.46 AMPS? Or VOLTS? I would presume volts. Because 12.46 amps isn't much for a starter to use to try and turn over an engine...

But I would be interested in knowing the Cold Cranking Amps of the battery....

Maybe a general location of where you are would generate some local help? I'm always willing to lend a hand, but it seems no one wants my help... Lol