YoterUp

Ok NEW PROBLEMS!!
(BUILD THREAD IN SIG CAN EXPLAIN IF YOU DONT UNDERSTAND)
Got it running better, started today off moving to a heated garage with a concrete floor! The truck backed up on the trailer and then drove off into the garage, then we realized we had a fuel leak found it under the top of the intake and fixed that then we had a vaccume line problem so we switched a wire or two and then capped off one or to, then we fixed the manifold leak i had, Then we took a timing gun to it and got timing set to where its supposed to be 10 degrees off top dead center, it idles right now at about 800rpms and starts right up PROBLEM IS

1. it doesn't build pressure in the radiator we took it for a quick up the street and back before we got to the end of the road the check engine light came on then we turned around and got back we realized that the top of the radiator was BURNING and the bottom was ice cold, so i went and got a new thermostat its a 180degree one now i let the thing run for 20min in the garage and it built up to half temp no engine light came on but it still didn't build hardly any pressure in the top hose. the heater in the truck works also. then i tried to drive it home which is only 2 miles down the road got 1/2 way there and engine light came on again. so when i got home i put it back in the garage and let it run for about another 20 min no engine light nothing no leaks ran fine, took it for a drive got about a mile down the road engine light again. I don't get it. and i don't know for sure i really didn't test the theory but it seems that the engine light likes to come on around 50mph. im not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.

Also timing seems dead on but it still sounds like i have a little miss it idles fine but if your listen real close you can here the tone change from time to time just for one hit tho. its kinda hard to explain

oh cant forget i shorted out my diagnostic box you know how you check your code from your check engine light and it flashes like its throwing a code but i don't know how to read what its saying, and that is with no check engine light on i dont know what that means exactly. if you can think of any ideas from this let me know ill post some more pics tomorrow

Jay351

What pattern does the blinking CEL have. Think of it like morse code.. It will show codes in that fasion. A constant blinking of the CEL = no codes.

Did you set your timing with the TE1 and E1 connectors jumped?

Are you sure your fan is working?
Water pump good?
Is the rad good?

YoterUp

i wouldn't say its constant ill have to video tape it and load it on here it starts with a long then 2 shorts then stops for a second then it blinks what looks like 3 shorts then stops for a second then 4 shorts then starts over. i believe, im not 100% on that. What is a rad? it might be a stupid question but i cant think right now. water pump should be good fan spins i know that works its mechanical spins with belts..

I didn't SET my timing with them jumped but i plugged them and checked the timing after. i didn't even know it mattered till i read it on my hood.

benwahballs

First off, get a Factory Service Manual, best 60 dollars you'll ever spend (seems like that this is all I ever post, get a FSM, get a FSM etc etc.)

rad = radiator.

sounds to me like you have an airlock in your coolant system (ie a bubble in one of your hoses that is stopping coolant from cycling through your system). I had a bit of a $#$^ of a time getting my coolant to cycle properly after my hg change. However, if your heater is cranking hot than that is normally a good sign that everything is cycling properly.

is it overheating?

Try squeezing your return line into your *rad* a bunch of times w engine runnig to manually assist coolant cycling and hopefully work any air out. I had a big airlock in my heater core but i wan't getting very much heat at all so it was fairly obvious. just my 2 cents.. good luck.

YoterUp

Ok so i got the video loaded and a few pics of the truck..i just loaded em all at once so ill post them in the same post.


I started this video right before i turned the key. So the 1st flash you see is the 1st one that popped up. i couldn't tell if it was throwing multiple codes or one long one so i recorded for a minute and a half i figured that had to be long enough to read the code it seemed to get repetitive anyways if anyone know what its saying let me know! thank you


Shorted Box

YoterUp

Thank you sounds like a good place to start! I really cant tell if its over heating or not its so darn cold outside it just doesn't get that hot.. i can tell you sitting in the barn or driving it, it wont go above half way up on the temp gauge. I should have got the FSM i got the cheap auto zone version and it doesn't show crap! My RAD should be fine its the one i used with the 90 motor right before the build and it worked just fine before this. I would like to say yes its good but i really couldn't tell ya. is there a way to check it? and the heat in the truck gets nice and hot..

YoterUp

Question Bump Help Me!

Cyberman

That's a lot of codes. Have you pulled the battery cable since fixing some of the issues?
I would pull the negative battery cable first, to erase the codes. Then see what codes you have after trying again.

Here are the codes I got from that video:

12 - RPM Signal - no G or Ne Signal is input for 2 sec. or more arfter STA turns on (Distributor)
41 - Throttle Position Sensor - Open or short detected in throttle position sensor.
42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor - SPD signal is not input to the ECU for at least 8 seconds during high load driving with engine speed between 2750 and 4000 rpm.
43 - Starter Signal - Starter signal is not input to ECU even once until engine reaches 800 rmp or more when cranking
51 - Switch condition signal - Displayed when A/C is ON, IDL contact
OFF or shift position in ”R”, ”D”, ”2”, or
” 1 ” ranges with the check terminals E 1
and TE 1 connected. (A/C switch circuit, Throttle position sensor IDL
circuit, Neutral start switch circuit, AccElerator pedal, cable)

YoterUp

holy crap that's alot! ill have to get on that in the morning but THANK YOU ALOT!!! i owe you a few beers now! i just read up on how to burp the system, or at least try to anyways! ill repost in the morning when i see whats going on..

YoterUp

where did you look up the codes at?

YoterUp

Ok i burped the rad i pulled the truck up on some 8inch ramps and started it up with the heat on high! i also disconnected the negative cable for 5 min and let it sit. after i did that i put it back on and it was a constant blink and the maual says that means everything is ok! now after i burped the rad i took it for a test drive and it seemed fine went up and down the road a few times low rps not past 3rd gear everything was fine got out on the main road about a football field down check engine came on so i got back off the main road shut it off turned it back on no light? started heading home low rpms low speed never came back on. got home checked it again Its throwing a 42 and a 51 code. i dont know what that means exactly but i looked up under the truck and my spedo cable isnt connected which explains why my spedo doesn't work I DONT KNOW WHERE THAT PLUGS IN ON THE TRANNY THO!!!

Also after the 5 min ride i still had no built up pressure in the rad hoses. it doesn't over heat the heat in the truck works fine but it still worries me ya know is that normal? Another thing is the radiator is SUPER HOT and nothing else is the water is pretty warm but the hoses are still cold? I dont get it. also remember its 30 degrees here and it was only a 5 min ride after i 15min of idle so it may not have had much of a chance to over heat??? help me

WHERE DOES THE SPEDO CABLE PLUG INTO A MANUAL TRANNY?

WHY AM I NOT BUILDING ANY PRESSURE IN MY RAD HOSES?

WHY AM I STILL THROWING A 42, 51 CODE?

THANKS

wii_tarded

WHY AM I NOT BUILDING ANY PRESSURE IN MY RAD HOSES?

check to be sure that you have enough fluid in the rad. then, judging by all that snow, it may take a while for the engine to warm up enough to pop the thermostat open. As long as it's closed, no pressure on rad.

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

The speedo cable plugs into the Tcase, not the tranny. Get that handled, then reset codes again and drive it. The other guess is that your TPS needs to be adjusted.

Don't worry about code 51. Its random and mainly for A/T trucks.

Also, if you just pull the EFI fuse in the engine bay, it will reset the codes without losing power to everything else. Keeps you from having to reset your clock, stereo, etc.

Here is the online FSM for a 1993 4runner/pickup. It will tell you everything you need to do to test the system, codes, etc.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Also, you need to realize that the radiator won't build a TON of pressure. You should still be able to squeeze each hose. So, its not like its going to build so much pressure that it keep that from happening. Check the cap though. If you turn it and it starts to blow out coolant, then its got enough pressure.

YoterUp

Ok so i took it for a 30 mile ride with a 15min cool down 15miles in, (drove it to walmart!) When i got to walmart i pulled the codes again and now i have 3---42,43,51---Truck didnt seem to over heat any temp felt pretty good all around when i pop the cap after driving i have VERY little pressure built up it hardly lets any fluid come out and i can easily flatten both the top and bottom with the truck started and after driving.. I did change my oil for the 1st time pulled the plug when it was nice and hot after the drive poured right out oild didnt look bad im thinking its doing pretty good id say! i still need to figure out these coeds it drives me NUTS when that light it on! last truck i had i had a bad o2 sensor and light NEVER went off and i was about to pay 130$ for it i had to put black wire tape over the light so i didn't see it.! but thanks for the help guys

Cyberman

And, you anwered your own question with the 42 code. Plug in the speedo cable, and that one will go away.

The radiator cap is rated around 13 psi, so there isn't much pressure in there, or the cap would blow.

YoterUp

Alright shes running drove it to town and back 2 times today.. AND I GOT PRESSURE IN THE TOP RAD HOSE>>>WHOO HOO!! ok so next problem

I HAVE NO BLINKERS! they worked before all this but now nothing i can switch it up and down nothing happens i checked the fuse its just fine.. and ideas where is the relay?

I CANT PLUG MY SPEDO IN, I DONT THINK? the cable i have is off a 90 truck with a 5 speed the T-case/Tranny is off the 93 set up, now i saw what looks to be where it plugs in its on the back of the tcase but it looks like an electrical plug but the cable isnt electrical its just a copper wire ill talk pics tomarow if no one knows what im talking about.

After that i think thats all ill try and get a pic or two of her tomarrow to finish up the build but please help!! thanks

Cyberman

ya, let's go back to the original thread. Kinda hard to follow three.

abecedarian

you realize that 13 PSI is almost double atmospheric pressure? not much pressure indeed... not.
13 psi from a turbo could nearly double the horsepower of an engine, and it's not that much pressure?
okay. all things in perspective.

YoterUp

Sry i have 3 threads going with similar or the same question! no one wants to coment my build thread anymore i guess they thinks its dead or something i get anwsers from anyone! and i have 3 threads and still havnt gotten an anwser on the blinkers or the spedo yet?

wii_tarded

Just a shot in the dark, is your hazard lights plug installed and connected, does it work?
Tore my dash apart this weekend and had no blinkers untill I took the flasher plug and connected it.