QuietGiant

Travel Trailer Spec's
I need to make a onetime move of a 4800Lb (420Lb tongue weight) travel trailer about 25 miles over relatively level and smooth roads. My 94 4Runner AT 4x4 V6 has a 3500Lb tow rating and a hitch and a tow bar rated for 5000Lb & 500Lb tongue weight.
If it was you (and I assume those who will chime in here are experienced in towingstuff) would you push the limits of this old truck and this set up?
I plan on a slow and gentle ride but, not sure how tight the tolerances are for this 3500LB rated truck. Obviously, I don't want a breakdown. Interested in your opinions...

AdmiralYoda

I'll chime in. In topics like this you hear alot from people saying that they regularly tow a 25ft boat that weights 5000lbs or whatever. They say go for it, the 22RE has more nuts than we give it credit for....just go slow.

All trucks and SUV's, including F350's, Chevy 3500's etc will pull more than what the manual says. The problem is usually braking. Even if the overweight trailer is adequately braked it is still not a good idea.....

Why? Liability. Even if you did a LS1 swap and upgraded your brakes beyond belief you could still find yourself in deep doo-doo for towing more than what your truck is rated for. Sure your truck is modified and is physically capable of towing more than it was rated from the factory....but not according to your insurance company. Its the liability that will get you.

What the F am I talking about? Lets say you're 94 4Runner or my 87 4Runner is pulling 5000lbs and an idiot driver pulls out in front of you. You don't stop in time and plow into them. Depending on the circumstances you could get in trouble. In a little fender bender I'm sure you could just exchange information and be on your merry way....

But what if someone got seriously hurt....the police have to file a report. Things like trailers and their contents noted in the report. Insurance companies are slimy and will try to get out of paying whenever they can. If there is the slightest possibility that they can deny you coverage because you exceeded the GVWR they will. That could land you in a heap of legal problems if you are found to be the one at blame.

I'm not trying to be Captain Buzzkill. To answer your original question. Yes I think your 4Runner is physically able to tow that load. Just go slow as hell and brake well in advance.

Would I do it? YES I WOULD. A 4Runner towing 4800lbs is far different than a pickup towing 13,000. And its not like you are going on a cross country camping trip with this behemoth travel trailer....its just 25 miles. Just be carefull and know that if something goes wrong insurance companies would love to point the finger at you.

AdmiralYoda

Also, make sure your auto trans has new fluid in it just in case. 4800lbs is alot of weight for a low HP V6 and your transmission will be working hard. Keep your RPM's high and use your engine for braking.

Whenever the towed vehicle is longer and heavier than the tow vehicle you run the risk of "the tail wagging the dog". The trailer will want to push you around alot, especially the faster you go.

QuietGiant

Thanks for the input. I agree about the liability issue 100%. I feel ok with the risk. It is a rural area with only one trick intersection. I feel confident about the risk factors.
My biggest concern was tongue weight and tolerances with u-joints.
My rig is rust free and well maintained (170k). So, you think towing at that weight will be ok on the truck itself? Just a liability risk? Thanks..

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Long time tower here- you'll be fine over that short distance going nice and slow. Your brakes aren't built for it, so use compression braking if necessary, but certainly keep lots of space. If you are squatting too hard, or plan to tow more often, you can find equalizing hitches, or weight distrubution hitches, resonably priced and bolt on easily. Just keep it nice and slow, like 35 mph slow.

QuietGiant

I have an electric brake controller and the trailer has electric brakes so, I feel ok with that aspect. I will not have an equalizing hitch. Maybe worth the investment just in case...
Drew, see your rig is red too. We all know red is best!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

If you are going slow, I personally wouldn't bother, but here's one for $200

AdmiralYoda

Just for the hell of it I'll mention one more thing just in case someone stumbles across this in the future. And when someone searches "How much can my 1st gen 4Runner", this thread will pop up.....

Your max tow rating is calculated based on the max GVWR, or maximum combined weight of the tow vehicle and the 4Runner itself. My 87 4Runner manual says I can tow 3500lbs with the 22RE. But I shouldn't go out any buy a 3,500lb camping trailer. The GVWR is subject to the weight of the cargo of the 4Runner as well.

If all the camping gear, 4 occupants, and a bunch of beer weights 1,000lbs then I can only "legally" tow 2,500 because I will be at my max GVWR when I'm hauling 1,000lbs of fat people. Something to keep in mind.

AdmiralYoda

It would be cheaper to go to Uhaul or Home Depot and rent one of their trucks for $29.95. They are rated for plenty more than you are trying to tow.

QuietGiant

Thanks AdmiralYota. I agree. The trailer and truck will be empty but your right. Total weight is a major factor and will be exceeded. Truck is roughly 4400 and trailer is 4800. Defiantly over the spec's.
Good point about the rental truck.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I have a 87 regular cab truck and I've pulled just about everything with it. It's my one and only truck. I have a 16' car trailer and I pull it around with my truck. I've hauled everything from 4 runners to tractors with it. As far as my setup I have a Uhaul hitch that I cut and shortened. I also have a 8" drop receiver and your standard trailor wiring kit. To my advantage my brakes are hooked up 50/50 bypassing the LPV this helps me stop with out being shoved. I've also beefed up my springs with a extra leaf.

My only problem is not enough engine lol.

QuietGiant

Thanks to all of you here. You have been a great help.
Regards, QuietGiant

Gamefreakgc

I realize that most of the towing points have been covered, but for others who might be looking at this, one thing has been ommited.

An A/T has much less towing power than a M/T. A M/T you can keep in high RPM's easy and have more HP and torque you can control. An A/T will tow in the lower RPM's which if you transmission is old and having issues already, could be the straw that breaks the camel's back. Just a word of caution.

For the longevity of your truck, a rental might be a good idea.

QuietGiant

Most valid point. I plan now to use a rental for my tow job. Cheap insurance!
Thanks