taylordog2

Hey everyone, it's been awhile since i've been on here. I recently was honorably discharged from the military and now i have a lot more time on my hands lol.

So i picked this 4Runner up, i traded straight across for my car that i've been building for the last year and i feel kind of like i got hosed.. there's a lot of hidden problems with this thing the guy didn't tell me about. a little about it; it is SAS'd with a trail gear kit, has the high steer, longfield axles, warn hubs, lockrite locker in the front, and other things that i cant think of..

it also has the 4.3 vortec v6 swapped into it with the 700r4 auto trans, it runs good but really rich it has the edlebrock performer intake and 1403 500cfm carb on it, i believe the jets are way too big for the motor but idk what to jet it down to?

also i'm not sure if it's a common problem with a SAS, but does anybody know what to check if i have a death wobble at about 40-45 mph? i replaced the wheel bearings on both sides and that got rid of it every time i hit 40 now it just wobbles in that zone when i hit bump... i have no idea what to check next please help with this one??

I've already started fixing things while making it my own at the same time here's a couple pictures and there will be more to come soon!

this is what it looked like when i picked it up on 33's, this was the first time out.


after that i found out that the cable for the transfer case shifter is shredded in one section which limits me to 4H only... i ordered a new cable from GMpartsdirect.com and the cable i got is about a foot and a half too short..

i put new wheels and tires on about 2 weeks after that and it looks much better with 35's

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Did your death wobble continue with the new tiress? The fronts actually look very worn down.
DW can be attributed to worn TRE's, spring bushings, steering box, wheels/tires out of balance. Even the front spring could be out of square..yours actually does not sound too bad..

just noticed the cut out on the inner front fender well..probably want to patch to avoid crap getting trapped up there.

osv

try tightening down the front shackles as well.

the problem is knowing how tight to get 'em, because there isn't a spec for it... you don't want to put too much drag on the bushings.

taylordog2

Okay I'll take a look at it, I think the steering box might need to be tightened up a little because I get about 4 and a half rotations on the wheel from full lock to full lock but I'll probably replace the bushings as well and see where to go from there. Thanks guys that helps alot!

And yeah the front tires are worn down CL specials lol

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Well it's a TG kit. The castor angle is probably negative. Check that first. Look at the snout of the diff, if it's pointing down or is level that's bad and will give you DW. You can fix that with some steel shims. I used a 6° shim.

Also, tighten up your steering gearbox preload. Makes a big difference.

Bummer about the vortec swap......

Redeth005

Death wobble on my SAS'd rig usually comes from loose bolts on the shackles. I get it around the same speed as you do. Tighten those things up. Even a couple turns make a huge difference! I usually need to re-tighten mine after every offroad trip or every couple of weeks.

osv

the only real fix for these crappy aftermarket shackles is davez no wobble shackles.

they are a b***h to install, they have hollow sleeves through the rubber, but you tighten 'em down as hard as you can, so that all the metal parts lock together.

so unlike regular shackles, there isn't any metal rubbing against metal, so they last longer.

Redeth005

I just need to use some lock waahers under the nuts and that will solve my problem. But I have been putting that off lately. I need to go buy some.

osv

it should have locking nuts already.

the problem is that the movement of the shackle loosens the nut... I tried welding tabs on the side of the shackle, which held the bolt head captive so that the bolt didn't turn, but there was still metal on metal wear in the shackle bolt holes... they become elongated and sloppy, which increases the wobble movement.

Torched T4R

On the rich mixture, if you have tried leaning it out with the mixture screws jetting down is simple. Its not rocket science, so the best bet is to buy a jet kit, and go down two sizes at a time. If it is rich during idle and not when you blip the throttle, I would suspect that the carb mixture screws are set too rich. A 500 CFM carb should be pretty close for that engine with the factory jets. There are conditions with that carb that cause a rich mixture as well, but check the mixture screws first. Turn them in at 1/4 turns until your idle increases, then back off 1/2 turn. Repeat on the other mixture screw.
If it's when you blip the throttle, most likely the accelerator pump is giving to big of a shot.
Hope that helps.

taylordog2

thanks for the info, i've leaned it out with the screws as best i can but it still runs really rich, i'm getting about 125 miles to a tank of gas...super bad lol but the jet kit is like 65 bucks and that's my next investment, i also have the stock vortec fuel injection manifold sitting in the shop, the wiring harness for it is ran already but after reading up on it idk if i should swap that on or just keep it carb'd??

taylordog2

from what i can tell its about level but that's eye balling it, so what you're saying is that it should point up slightly? that's what the shims would do?

taylordog2

i'll definitely tighten them up and see what that does, i wouldn't doubt that they're loose the guy that had it before me half a**ed everything...so i'm slowly fixing all the crap he messed up

BTW Redeth005 we never got around to doing that saddleback run when i was in socal!! if you ever find yourself up here in southern oregon there's trails for days lol

Torched T4R

The factory FI will always work well if you have all the sensors and the ECU to run it.
Myself, I build hot rods, so I'm a carburetor guy. Carbs are simple to work on and easy to adjust. They really aren't hard to dial in. Have you inspected it to determine what size jets you have in there? Have you checked the float bowl levels to make sure you're not just dumping fuel down the throat? High fuel pressure can also cause them to run rich, those carbs are designed to run between 5-10 PSI fuel inlet pressure. About 6 does them pretty damn good. If you're over that, you can get a regulator for about $20 that just goes inline on the inlet. Hope that helps.


Saddleback? HAHA. That's where I learned to ride motorcycles when they still let you ride bikes. I learned on a 1978 Honda 80cc at saddle back raceway when I was 5, while my uncle was in between races.

Torched T4R

This should help you dial in the carb.


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...404_manual.pdf

taylordog2

thanks a lot man! i appreciate it. i decided to keep it carburated so i'll definitely check the fuel pressure, i never even thought about that! i'm assuming it has the stock fuel pump and there is no fuel pressure regulator so it's probably way to high right now.

i never got the chance to check out saddleback but i saw a lot of pictures and videos lol looked pretty fun!!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

You bought a SAS-ed and engine swapped vehicle. And you expected it to run 100% with no bugs at all?
Sick 4Runner. You'll get there. Sounds like you're got all the answers you need. Just gotta get out and get them fixed. You'll be laughing once it's running 100%, then you can start modding.
Enjoy.

PS: Yes, I am the peanut gallery.

osv

you have to measure it, don't throw shims at it blindly.

$4.99 for an angle finder: http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-ga...der-34214.html

if the front axle hasn't been cut and turned, slap the angle finder on the pinion flange, without removing the driveshaft... toyota designed the front axle housing so that it would have acceptable caster and such with the pinion flange surface being nearly perfectly vertical... in other words, the third member is horizontal to the ground.

of course you want the truck on a level surface when using the angle finder... if the front end has been cut and turned, the easiest thing to do is to take it to an alignment shop to get the caster angle... if the axle is apart, you can perfectly measure the caster by using the bearing races and a long screwdriver or something.

taylordog2

Nooo lol i knew as soon as i saw it that it was a project but i really liked the rig so went ahead with the trade. i'm just not used to having to save so much money to dump into it, when i built my car i was active duty making per diem so i had a pretty much unlimited cash flow making the build easy! now i'm out and building it like everyone else lmao just takes time and all the information everyone here has provided me with, which i am very greatful for btw