lalojamesliz

I replaced the headgasket on my 87 22r and did a valve job and resurface (shop said only a little was removed)
I put everything together but when I put the chain on I didn't plan the position good so I moved it (I don't remember exactly what happened )
And I just used the mark on the sprocket washer and dot on the cam sprocket to line up with the crank pulley mark at 12 o clock.
I remember my first attempt to start didn't go well because of the fireball in the carburetor :0
​​pulled the dizzy out, turned the engine 180* and re-installed it and it fired right up with a slightly high idle about 1000-1200
Later I installed a working vacuum advance an the idle went up even higher to like 1300-1400 then I installed a aem wideband to verify my fuel afr and it was super lean so I richened the carb and the afr's are good now buy I'm idling at like 1700!
I re-sealed my intake manifold and my carb to the intake manifold but no help. I also replaced all the small vacuum lines with silicone vacuum lines. It took like 15ft!

Here's a pick of the cam timing with the engine at TDC

Any suggestions?

lalojamesliz

I've probably put a couple hundred miles on this truck (172k miles on truck) since I've owned it. Spent close to $1k and I'm getting fed up with it. Just paid the tags and only pay $25 a month on insurance but I'm just tired of having it and not being able to use it. I've owned it for like 8 months!
I'm thinking it could be the carb and I want to throw a weber on it for simplicity but I live in California and I get paranoid about removing the smog equipment

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Surely there is an idle adj screw and linkage adj. carb might need rebuilding.

lalojamesliz

I took the carb off and took out the Jets and swapped out the diaphragms (don't know the names) but that didn't make any difference.
I know this carb is hard to rebuild properly and a brand new original carb is a lot $$$
I don't know how to adjust the linkages unfortunately
​​​​​​
What would you recommend?

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

I've had a bad oil pan gasket of all thing give me a major vacuum leak. Some guys I've seen on here have also talked about the dipstick tube/ rubber piece going bad

lalojamesliz

Aw wtf! Please don't tell me that causes a vacuum leak.
I have a decent size leak on my oil pan because I slipped when I was installing it. I was going to get to that after this stupid high idle problem. I'll try to take care of that leak when I get home after work in the morning and hopefully take care of both issues

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

When you check your timing with the light how does it look ??

If the cam gear is off it won`t even be close to where it should be.

Throttle cable hanging up causing your high idle.

Good luck with fixing the oil pan leak.

lalojamesliz

when I check with the light it's at 8* IIRC with the hoses from the vac advance unplugged
Whatever it's supposed to be at but at a much higher rpm.
I've even tried idling with the throttle cable disconnected with the same results.
sleeping might have to wait until I seal up that oil pan

lalojamesliz

It was a HUGE PITA to remove the pan because of that Toyota fipg I used on it!
I bent my pan ( I fixed it already) prying it off.
I didn't see where it could be leaking through but who knows. Any advice on removing the fipg from the pan?

lalojamesliz

I looked around on Google and found on this site a guy having the same problem and people told him a wire brush and gasoline

lalojamesliz

So I took it to that mechanic my friend recommended. He told me the engine looked great and it's the carb that's causing my high (1600-1700 rpm) idle.
He told me it has some bearings inside the carb that fluctuate back and forth that are dirty and he opened up the top half of the carb and it was really dirty inside.
Funny thing is that I just removed the carb and took out the Jets and cleaned them along with the carb.
That's all I removed from the carb by the way.
He also got the idle down to 1100 but it's missing a lot so I'm sure it's running super lean. I'll verify and adjust with my wideband sensor later.
Since he verified the engine is fine and the carb is the issue, does anyone know of a place that can fix my carb in California?

lalojamesliz

I was thinking of this one as a replacement so I can keep my smog crap. What do you guys think?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231588581379

superex87

Looks like a decent carb. Compare the pictures carefully with your carb to be sure they have all the same parts. I highly recommend replacing all of the rubber fuel lines on the truck. The ethanol in the gas eats the inside of the fuel lines and all that goop ends up in the carb. I would put a good quality fuel filter up by the carb and replace the fuel filter back by the fuel tank. I would highly recommend locating a factory service manual for your year. It has VERY detailed pictures and information on how each part of the carb functions and how to adjust everything. The weber carb is not all that great. You give up a lot of drivability over the stock carb. The factory carb was designed to function very smoothly in all types of temperatures and conditions. The weber does not do well in the cold, plus changes in altitude. The oem carb can adjust for these changes.

old87yota

You can also look at this thread that was started a few days ago about the same carburetor you posted: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-carbs-299329/

77Lubr was also thinking about buying one of these carbs. Personally, I have never purchased one of these Chinese Aisin STYLE Carburetors but the casting of the carburetor shown isn't very good.

I have heard good and bad things about these NEW knock-off carburetors. You never know, they might actually work out fine!

If you are going with a stock carburetor, check the vacuum switching valves and other devices in the emissions system. The stock carburetor relies on these switches to work properly.

lalojamesliz

Well now I found this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181895876235
I'm going to try to adjust my carb and if I can't then I'll probably just get one from this guy

L5wolvesf

His feedback isn't impressive.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

If I'm understanding this right (coming from smaller atv carb experence), you're getting junk in your carb, it's coming from somewhere plugging jets and passages making it run lean. Maybe your tank is dirty or rusty inside, there's a hole in fuel filter, etc? Kind of depends what was in the carb (rust, dirt, just normal gas buildup/varnish). Ive you've ran it a while since it was last worked on, I'd say pull the carb top apart again just to check if there's any junk building up again, unless you're sure that isn't the problem.

Besides that, I had a 22R with the opposite problem, ran fine cold, when it got warm it'd idle down too much, flood and stall when I hit the brakes. The AARP had a hole in the diaphragm, blocked that off and found the float level was too high. I bumped the idle up because I had to use the truck to go back and forth to work, but I had it set to around 1500-1700 rpm with the idle adjuster. MPG was good for having the running problems ~25-30mpg). Anyway to get back on point did you adjust the air fuel mixure screw (behind the cap)? I never had a reason to adjust it (don't have an O2 readout either though), might be good to put it around the factory location (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out I think) and check the related componets that adjust the air/fuel mixure. Pretty sure there is an altitude type of thing that adjusts the carb somehow (not sure how it functions, just know about it).

This thread mentions it, last post has an image, OP has similar described issue (high idle), but also describes his truck as hard starting. Sadly no feedback on the actual fix.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...ck-22r-274227/