sortafast

So I rebuilt the 22RE in my 95 4runner last winter and now am looking to get more power out of it (with in reason). At the rebuild I put in a RV cam with 268 dur, .425lift, 110sep, and 46 of overlap. I also fabbed up a "cold Air" intake. I plan on putting 31x10.5 A/T tires on there soon and will need all the power I can get. Any thought on what to do from here? Everything is pretty much stock. Pretty much a pavement vehicle, but every other week I find myself on the logging roads (but no wheelin). Any thoughts for the noob?

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

I guess you could bore out the engine a little more, and headers are an easy way to gain a few more hp. Also if your 4Runner is a manual, an upgraded clutch will help you put power to the ground easier (you won't lose as much in the transmission.)

toyota4x4907

2.25" exhaust with header. Re-gear the differentials for larger tires.

iamsuperbleeder

as mentioned, a header will give you the best bang for your bunk on these engines

but keep in mind the 22re is in no way meant to be a power house

I spent 3 months and over 2k on a a rebuild that included a 30-over bored, a higher flow head, a 261 cam and stiffer springs, a header and full cat-back exhaust, and by seat of the pants was making MAYBE 140is HP... and turning 31's, it could just get to 115mph, but it took it about 10 miles, lol. In the end, it looked better than it performed

91Toyota

Do like I did. Sell your Toyota and buy a diesel. I did. Surprising I only lost 2mpg.

Seriously, just get used to it being slow. You can throw money at it but you'll only see minimal power gains.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

sortafast

Yeah, I had the block bored .030" over as well. I think its exhaust for now. I kind of want to do an electric fan too, was told that could help with the mileage a bit. Not too sure I want to drop the coin on re-gearing the diffs right now, but I will call my transmission guy and see what that would run me. Got a line on a used header for $70, but need to ask the guy a bit more about it. Was also told that I could put the locking hubs off a mid-80's truck on there to help save the CV joints and it would help a little with remove dead rotating weight (every little bit helps I suppose). Also have a friend that has a barely used magnaflo muffler in stainless for $20 so might pick that up as well.

So to summarize: get a header of some sort, go 2.25" from the cat back with a good muffler, and pretty much thats it other than maybe re-gearing it somewhere down the road?

iamsuperbleeder

yes an e-fan swap can make a noticable different too, both with MPG and the available HP

91Toyota

Isn't that wrong?

Believe it or not, if the fan is running it is STILL taking power off of the crank shaft. Because the alternator has to work harder. Just like if you turn on some accessory lights, ac, turn the wheel, blast the stereo the engine will idle lower

sortafast

I want a diesel, just can't afford one right now, and frankly I dig the way this thing handles on the narrow logging roads. After driving a couple full size rigs around on those roads, it is nice to be in a smaller rig. I am also a little scared off at the maintenance costs and what not too (especially since I have never worked on a diesel in my life). Oh well, some day maybe.

91Toyota

True, because mine is a diesel the price is jacked up. Everything costs more.

Anyway, where do you live in OR?

kenbo53

Search a bit and youll find tons of info on this subject. Imo if you want an noticeable increase in power get something with a bigger motor.

sortafast

just west of hillsboro.

iamsuperbleeder

the alternator strain is hardly noticable

but then again, I was also running a 130amp alternator


in Florida, where it's regularly right around 100 degrees in the summer, and the fan clutch engages every time you come to a stop for more than 10 seconds, it makes HUGE difference, and is VERY noticable when say taking off from a red light... It's unbelievable just how much drag that fan puts on the 22re when the clutch is engaged

g_cali

LCE header.

SoCal4Running

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say: Take all unnecessary weight out of the truck. Acceleration is all about power to weight ratio!

PismoJoe

I don't think boring the engine out in a stock 22RE would really do anything at all. Performance with un modified fuel injection and ECU pretty much stays the same.

Unless your building a stroker or something, I wouldn't bore it out too much. For carbs, its a different story because they are much easier to tune and get quick performance results.

But yeah get a header like everyone is saying, most bang for your buck that is actually noticeable, or some gears that match your tires better if you changed them up

91Toyota

I highly doubt .030 over would make a noticeable difference.

More cubes does NOT equal more power.

meswoleshane

I've built several of these engines. They are not going to be powerful. One of my buddies in Mobile used to work at a shop with a dyno and he put his 92 truck with a 22re on the dyno with a 75hp shot of nos and it hit less than 170 hp.
I just finished this one.

On 33"s with 4.3 gears I can get to 70 decently, 75-80 on a good day with a tailwind.
My ext. cab. though...

Will do a 3 wheel burn out on 35" boggers...

Funny thing is it costs less to build a decent 350 than it does a 22re!

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Calm down jumpy, i didn't say it would add power, i said it will help the power get transferred to the ground easier without losing so much hp in the drivetrain.

PismoJoe

I do have to say that if his clutch disk is not warn, there would be no difference in getting power to the wheels with an upgraded clutch. An upgraded clutch would be a heavier pressure plate which just means more gripping power for high RPM engaging, and a stiffer pedal.

You just cant drive a stick like an angry schoolgirl, and you'll get power to the wheels