Mild grabbing/grinding when downshifting after gear oil change
#1
Mild grabbing/grinding when downshifting after gear oil change
I have a 4wd 5 speed manual 1986 pickup with 140,000 miles. I just drained all my transmission oil and replaced with this Lucas product. I also added about 1/4 quart of the Lucas Oil treatment (the thick stuff) it states on the side of the bottle that it can be added to manual transmission oil. I don't know what kind of oil was in the tranny previous as the truck is new to me. I filled til oil was flowing out of the the fill hole on the side of the transmission and then capped it. I forget exactly how much it took to fill but I think it was between 4 and 5 quarts.
It now shifts less smooth. All gears are acceptable except for second. When I downshift to second I have to try to do it quickly but even then it feels forced and I feel a slight bit of grab/mild grinding. The gear oil I added says that it is gl4 and gl5 compatible. I thought for sure I was using proper gear oil. What do you think?
It now shifts less smooth. All gears are acceptable except for second. When I downshift to second I have to try to do it quickly but even then it feels forced and I feel a slight bit of grab/mild grinding. The gear oil I added says that it is gl4 and gl5 compatible. I thought for sure I was using proper gear oil. What do you think?
#2
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There are likely to be a number of differing opinions on which oils are best.
Sometimes the GL-5 rated oils are a little too slick.
Also, thicker is not always better,especially for colder weather service.
Generally, the newer spec gear oils (GL-5) give excellent service in differentials, but older tranny syncros sometimes don't care for them.
I use synthetic GL-5 gear oils in my diffs and transfer cases, but i buy a semi-synthetic Euro-spec 75W-90 GL-4 only (not GL-4-GL-5) gear oil for use in my trannys. This is the oil that contains the additive package that the older trannys were designed to use. Mine do well on this oil.
I can get it for about $60 for a 5 gallon pail from the oil distributor in my area, so I can change oils out for little cost.
I am sure others will have different ideas.
Sometimes the GL-5 rated oils are a little too slick.
Also, thicker is not always better,especially for colder weather service.
Generally, the newer spec gear oils (GL-5) give excellent service in differentials, but older tranny syncros sometimes don't care for them.
I use synthetic GL-5 gear oils in my diffs and transfer cases, but i buy a semi-synthetic Euro-spec 75W-90 GL-4 only (not GL-4-GL-5) gear oil for use in my trannys. This is the oil that contains the additive package that the older trannys were designed to use. Mine do well on this oil.
I can get it for about $60 for a 5 gallon pail from the oil distributor in my area, so I can change oils out for little cost.
I am sure others will have different ideas.
Last edited by millball; 09-23-2015 at 09:41 AM.
#3
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Manual transmissions have somewhat different lubrication requirements than do rear ends/differentials. The syncros in the manual require friction to work - they're essentially clutches that force the gears to match speeds, so introducing oil and/or additives that are super slick will cause the syncros to not work well with resultant shifting problems.
On the other hand, the hypoid ring and pinion in a rear end is actually closer to a worm gear drive than a straight right-angle gear. That means there is a lot of slipping going on between the teeth, requiring oils that are slick and that can maintain their film under very high pressures. GL-5 oils are designed for this.
Millball is correct, I think you'll do better with a straight GL-4 in the tranny, and skip the additives unless you're an oil chemist and know what you're doing.
On the other hand, the hypoid ring and pinion in a rear end is actually closer to a worm gear drive than a straight right-angle gear. That means there is a lot of slipping going on between the teeth, requiring oils that are slick and that can maintain their film under very high pressures. GL-5 oils are designed for this.
Millball is correct, I think you'll do better with a straight GL-4 in the tranny, and skip the additives unless you're an oil chemist and know what you're doing.
#5
Now that I'm thinking back, I think I added 1 or more quarts of Mobile 1 gear oil along with the Lucas. I just looked at the bottles and the Mobile 1 is designated as GL5 only. The Lucas, which was the majority of what I added, was GL4/GL5 but the Mobile 1 was not. I was a bit short and added the Mobile one, which I originally bought for the differential gears. I just didn't remember that it was GL5 only. This may be my problem. Both were synthetic and 75w90 though. Quite a waste of money, but I think I'm gonna flush it all and start again.
#7
I switched to the Redline MT-90 and was disappointed at first because the symptoms were exactly the same. But throughout the day as I drove the truck things smoothed out. It is noticeably better now. I guess using a straight gl4 gear oil really is the way to go on these trucks. I now have 4.5 quarts of great looking synthetic gl4/gl5 lucas gear oil that I drained from the tranny into a bucket. Will have to find another use for it.
It's interesting because before when I first changed the gear oil I didn't notice a huge improvement or difference and then throughout the next day or two shifting became more rough and grabby with the occasional mild grind on downshift. I wonder why it takes a bit of driving before the new gear oil takes full effect? Perhaps the oil has to make it's way into little areas and coat certain parts.
It's interesting because before when I first changed the gear oil I didn't notice a huge improvement or difference and then throughout the next day or two shifting became more rough and grabby with the occasional mild grind on downshift. I wonder why it takes a bit of driving before the new gear oil takes full effect? Perhaps the oil has to make it's way into little areas and coat certain parts.
Last edited by irv; 10-01-2015 at 10:06 AM.
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#8
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Even with correct lubricants, a little double-clutching finesse will stand you in good stead.
I cut my teeth on sliding gear crashboxes, anything with syncros, even worn out ones, is no sweat.
I cut my teeth on sliding gear crashboxes, anything with syncros, even worn out ones, is no sweat.
#9
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I agree with the Redline MT90. I also agree to give it 200 miles or so to notice more improvement. I haven't double clutched much as millball said, but that stands to reason. I do hesitate when possible, start into the gate and wait for it to "catch", goes in gear better. You can feel it.
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